Torque Converter Shudder...Best Course of Action?

[WQFTruckster]

Hello All,

2011 Tahoe LT 5.3l 4wd. ~187k miles (the majority of which are flat highway miles, very little trailer pulling). I've been noticing a mild vibration for a few weeks now that got a lot more noticeable on a trip to the mountains last weekend. Pulling up a hill in 3rd gear or higher resulted in a pretty harsh shake. Based on some research here and elsewhere it seems like shudder from the torque converter lockup clutch. It went away if I dropped it to M2 and got the revs up a bit. Transmission fluid and filter was changed not too long ago. Maybe 15k miles. Fluid still looks good, reddish and not burnt smelling.

So the question is where to go from here. I have a Tech II, but am not an expert on how to get the most out of it for transmission diagnostics. Any help in this department would be appreciated.

The shake is barely noticeable on my daily commute, but it is there. Transmission temps seem reasonable, maybe a little on the high side. They usually end up around 160 degrees after my 35 minute commute on an 80 degree day. A few days ago it got up to about 200 when I pulled into a gas station for a minute after a ~5 hour interstate drive on a warm day.

Is it a ticking time bomb? Should I just run it 'til it breaks? Or, given the mileage, am I better to just go ahead and proactively replace the entire transmission? And if so, suggestions on a good one? Maybe with an upgraded TC? A buddy recommended Jasper transmissions. I have a guy willing to do the R&R for $800. Does that sound about right? I don't mind getting my hands dirty, but I don't have the time/space/tools/lift for tranny work.

I love the truck and would like to keep it for several more years. Currently putting about 30k miles a year on it, mostly highway, daily commuting, family vehicle and a few trips a year. I'd rather spend a few thousand to keep this one going then jump into a new vehicle payment. It's in pretty good shape otherwise. I just replaced all the shocks and front end parts a few months ago.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Geotrash]

Hello All,

2011 Tahoe LT 5.3l 4wd. ~187k miles (the majority of which are flat highway miles, very little trailer pulling). I've been noticing a mild vibration for a few weeks now that got a lot more noticeable on a trip to the mountains last weekend. Pulling up a hill in 3rd gear or higher resulted in a pretty harsh shake. Based on some research here and elsewhere it seems like shudder from the torque converter lockup clutch. It went away if I dropped it to M2 and got the revs up a bit. Transmission fluid and filter was changed not too long ago. Maybe 15k miles. Fluid still looks good, reddish and not burnt smelling.

So the question is where to go from here. I have a Tech II, but am not an expert on how to get the most out of it for transmission diagnostics. Any help in this department would be appreciated.

The shake is barely noticeable on my daily commute, but it is there. Transmission temps seem reasonable, maybe a little on the high side. They usually end up around 160 degrees after my 35 minute commute on an 80 degree day. A few days ago it got up to about 200 when I pulled into a gas station for a minute after a ~5 hour interstate drive on a warm day.

Is it a ticking time bomb? Should I just run it 'til it breaks? Or, given the mileage, am I better to just go ahead and proactively replace the entire transmission? And if so, suggestions on a good one? Maybe with an upgraded TC? A buddy recommended Jasper transmissions. I have a guy willing to do the R&R for $800. Does that sound about right? I don't mind getting my hands dirty, but I don't have the time/space/tools/lift for tranny work.

I love the truck and would like to keep it for several more years. Currently putting about 30k miles a year on it, mostly highway, daily commuting, family vehicle and a few trips a year. I'd rather spend a few thousand to keep this one going then jump into a new vehicle payment. It's in pretty good shape otherwise. I just replaced all the shocks and front end parts a few months ago.

Thanks for any help.

My guess is that your Tech 2 won't help you much on this one. Is the shake happening at roughly crankshaft RPM? If not, the root cause of your shake could be a universal joint, CV joint, or any one of a number of things. Your transmission temps are normal.

At that mileage though, the TC is a ticking time bomb, yes. I had mine replaced proactively earlier this year in my 2012 XL Denali by a local transmission shop. They recommended a remanufactured factory unit that has a stronger lock-up clutch and a billet case upgrade. It's remanufactured by CVC, model BU60-FHD. If the TC fails, it will take the transmission and all of your coolers and lines with it. I had them replace the rear main seal at the same time for a total cost of around $1300, which is about $3000 less than a new transmission, coolers and lines would cost.

 

[WQFTruckster]

My guess is that your Tech 2 won't help you much on this one. Is the shake happening at roughly crankshaft RPM? If not, the root cause of your shake could be a universal joint, CV joint, or any one of a number of things. Your transmission temps are normal.

At that mileage though, the TC is a ticking time bomb, yes. I had mine replaced proactively earlier this year in my 2012 XL Denali by a local transmission shop. They recommended a remanufactured factory unit that has a stronger lock-up clutch and a billet case upgrade. It's remanufactured by CVC, model BU60-FHD. If the TC fails, it will take the transmission and all of your coolers and lines with it. I had them replace the rear main seal at the same time for a total cost of around $1300, which is about $3000 less than a new transmission, coolers and lines would cost.

I don't think it's a U joint. I've had that before and this seems different. The shake is most prominent when pulling in a higher gear. When it happens it feels a bit like driving over rumble strips or a very out of balance wheel. This vehicle has always seemed "reluctant" to downshift, but from what I can tell that's normal.

So you are suggesting replace the TC with an upgraded one but keep the transmission? I figured at this mileage the transmission didn't have much life left anyways.

 

[Geotrash]

I don't think it's a U joint. I've had that before and this seems different. The shake is most prominent when pulling in a higher gear. When it happens it feels a bit like driving over rumble strips or a very out of balance wheel. This vehicle has always seemed "reluctant" to downshift, but from what I can tell that's normal.

So you are suggesting replace the TC with an upgraded one but keep the transmission? I figured at this mileage the transmission didn't have much life left anyways.

Depends on how well the transmission has been maintained until now. If you've been doing regular fluid changes since new, and generally treat it well, there's no reason it shouldn't last many more miles - it's a stout transmission. I have 217K on the 6L80E in my '07 with no signs of problems so far. Yours being a 2011 is already benefitting from improvements made since the first versions and should continue to be reliable. That said, since you have to pay for the R&R anyway, having a rebuilt unit installed should only be another $2500 or so, so I guess it comes down to putting a price on long-term peace of mind for your budget.

 

[Bill 1960]

Check to make sure it’s not a motor or trans mount. Those can give you some shakes more noticeable under high torque.

Read the fine print on a Jasper warranty -and most other remans- before you give them your money.

If it’s the TCC, you might just replace the TC and preempt a complete trans failure. But not many shops will even attempt a partial repair on a high mileage trans. Too much risk of an unsatisfactory outcome and they don’t want the comeback.

 

[WQFTruckster]

Check to make sure it’s not a motor or trans mount. Those can give you some shakes more noticeable under high torque.

Read the fine print on a Jasper warranty -and most other remans- before you give them your money.

If it’s the TCC, you might just replace the TC and preempt a complete trans failure. But not many shops will even attempt a partial repair on a high mileage trans. Too much risk of an unsatisfactory outcome and they don’t want the comeback.

I've checked the motor mounts, they are good. I actually replaced the driver's side one last year with the Hummer model. The transmission mount looked good from the outside, but I didn't try jacking up the transmission to test it.

I tried to pay attention on the way home today. It seemed to do it most noticeably when in 3-6 gear, cruising anywhere between 25 and 60mph at 1100-1500 rpm and then rolling on the throttle a bit (but not enough to cause a downshift). Worse when going up hill. Worse once the transmission was up to temp.

Regarding the fine print on the warranty--are you aware of any specific "gotchas" with the Jasper, or was that a general statement?

Considering the mileage and R&R cost, I'm inclined to bite to bullet and do the whole transmission now and be done with it. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

 

[wsteele]

I've checked the motor mounts, they are good. I actually replaced the driver's side one last year with the Hummer model. The transmission mount looked good from the outside, but I didn't try jacking up the transmission to test it.

I tried to pay attention on the way home today. It seemed to do it most noticeably when in 3-6 gear, cruising anywhere between 25 and 60mph at 1100-1500 rpm and then rolling on the throttle a bit (but not enough to cause a downshift). Worse when going up hill.

Regarding the fine print on the warranty--are you aware of any specific "gotchas" with the Jasper, or was that a general statement?

Considering the mileage and R&R cost, I'm inclined to bite to bullet and do the whole transmission now and be done with it. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

Sounds like we are a lot alike. I would probably go ahead and replace the TC and transmission. I would also spend a little extra and get an OE reman unit. You will have a nationwide warranty and know you have quality build.

 

[Bill 1960]

Jasper basically has a goodwill warranty. You remove it and send it back, after which they decide if it’s covered or not. If they decide it’s not covered, tough luck. And they have all the evidence now.

 

[WQFTruckster]

Jasper basically has a goodwill warranty. You remove it and send it back, after which they decide if it’s covered or not. If they decide it’s not covered, tough luck. And they have all the evidence now.

Got it. Good to know. Thanks.

 

[WQFTruckster]

Sounds like we are a lot alike. I would probably go ahead and replace the TC and transmission. I would also spend a little extra and get an OE reman unit. You will have a nationwide warranty and know you have quality build.

Any suggestions on the best place to get an OE reman?