Tpms question

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HiHoeSilver

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My TPMS have never worked since I put aftermarket wheels on, even after replacing with new sensors. And I've never been able to get into the menu for the TPMS. The light is on 95+% of the time.

I've considered pulling the bulb for the TPMS when I had the dash apart to fix the stepper motors...

Sounds like maybe the wrong sensors or not paired properly.
 

tRidiot

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They never were paired properly, I guess. One shop wanted over $100 to do it, I passed. Looked up how to do it online, but I seem to remember you had to use your factory remote, which I didn't have. Have a 2-way paging alarm installed and don't use the factory keyless entry fob. I dunno, haven't ever really worried about it. It would be nice to have it working properly, but it wasn't worth $100 to me to do it...
 

79jasper

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What's wrong with a bulge? This is a characteristic of radial tires- always has been since their implementation in the 50s.

Also, that label was made assuming the truck has stock or stock-equivalent tires. A different size or make (more plies/"LT" designation) of tire may require more or less pressure. The point of a specified tire size, type and pressure is to maximize the contact patch and load stability. It is determined by the vehicle manufacturer after thorough testing with the vehicle's weight and handling characteristics. If the tire is different enough than stock spec, then that label is essentially irrelevant and you'll have to determine your ideal pressures. Too low of pressure causes more of the vehicle's weight is on the shoulders (outer edges) of the tread so that wears faster. Too much pressure and the center wears faster. Generally, if enough air is in the tire to have no bulge, then it's over-inflated and the contact patch is smaller. This will cause uneven tread wear, a firmer ride and less grip. Again, all of these dynamics are dependent upon what tire is used as compared to the OE spec'ed tire.

Now, if 35 happens to be a good (safe) psi, then roll with it. Last I knew, you could have the system reprogrammed with a TechII. But, as Nate said, 5psi over shouldn't trigger a warning. Perhaps your gauge reads low and you're putting in much more than 35psi?
To go with that.
What you can do is the chalk test.
Basically you chalk the tires, drive straight forward on flat ground, and adjust pressure up/Down until you have a even wear pattern.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

Sasquatch

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I solved my tire pressure monitor problems by removing them and throwing them in the trash and replacing them with regular valve stems. I monitor the tire pressure with my eyes every time i walk up to my vehicle.
 

iamdub

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I solved my tire pressure monitor problems by removing them and throwing them in the trash and replacing them with regular valve stems. I monitor the tire pressure with my eyes every time i walk up to my vehicle.

I wish it were that easy on a NNBS. They have a light AND a message on the DIC that displays every time it's started. Shit gets annoying.
 

swathdiver

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Tell me about it! Just got back from tire store and had them replace the LR sensor. But when they were done they said it was the LF now. Well, you guys said it was all hunky dory when you installed the tires a couple months ago. So they replaced the LF and get the truck back and the monitor says the RF is reading zero. While in the garage I did not hear the horn beep enough, they didn't do it right or took too long.

It cannot take longer than 2 minutes to program the first or 5 for the last or you have to start over.

I'll give it ago this afternoon with the kids. Bought 4 brand new GM sensors from a guy on ebay who takes them off brand new fleet cars for about $45 for the set.

A fellow with a 2007 posted a tutorial about activating the relearn from the DIC and not from the remote like my 2009s manual says.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/ac-delco-tpms-replacement-problem.80759/#post-991743
 

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