TRANSMISSION Oil Cooler Retrofit

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
6,435
Reaction score
15,958
Location
Richmond, VA
I'm not familiar with them. I've had quality oil lines and stainless worm drive hose clamps last 15+ years. I wouldn't hesitate to use them on this, but if I can have factory hard lines the whole way, I'd rather go that route. AFAIK, all that's needed for the Tru-Cool 40K is a splice fitting so you can cut the left side pipe (when facing engine) and reattach it rotated 180°.
Yes, this is correct, Chris.

That said, I think if I had it to do over again, I would go with a Derale transmission cooler with its own fan, and mount it either below the radiator, or somewhere else that's out of the way. The challenge I'm having with the Tru-Cool is that while it's super effective, it also reduces the airflow through the radiator, while increasing the temperature of that air, creating engine cooling problems when towing in warm weather, and necessitating a radiator upgrade in my case. It's possible that I would've needed a radiator upgrade anyway for the kind of towing I do, but either way, putting the heat from the transmission cooler in front of most of the radiator makes the whole cooling system less efficient, and really doesn't make good engineering sense.
 

Foggy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2019
Posts
1,094
Reaction score
1,407
Location
KS
Yes, this is correct, Chris.

That said, I think if I had it to do over again, I would go with a Derale transmission cooler with its own fan, and mount it either below the radiator, or somewhere else that's out of the way. The challenge I'm having with the Tru-Cool is that while it's super effective, it also reduces the airflow through the radiator, while increasing the temperature of that air, creating engine cooling problems when towing in warm weather, and necessitating a radiator upgrade in my case. It's possible that I would've needed a radiator upgrade anyway for the kind of towing I do, but either way, putting the heat from the transmission cooler in front of most of the radiator makes the whole cooling system less efficient, and really doesn't make good engineering sense.


I'm in the process of putting in the Derale trans cooler with it's own fan too.
My trans runs a little hotter than I'd like and I think the reason is that my intercooler
for the supercharger is directly in front of the oem external cooler..
So moving that should help airflow to everything else and not having hot
air going directly into the aux trans cooler should help too
 

Bill 1960

Testing the Limits
Joined
Dec 17, 2020
Posts
1,480
Reaction score
2,862
Thanks for the advice.

Using hard (aluminum) lines is better than rubber or PTFE because the aluminum acts like a supplemental radiator and dissipates heat while the fluid is flowing through the lines.

That’s a good point, and just to clarify the OEM lines are steel. Aluminum would be fragile in that size.
 

thompsoj22

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Posts
689
Reaction score
717
Location
california native "REPUBLICAN" high desert
I'm in the process of putting in the Derale trans cooler with it's own fan too.
My trans runs a little hotter than I'd like and I think the reason is that my intercooler
for the supercharger is directly in front of the oem external cooler..
So moving that should help airflow to everything else and not having hot
air going directly into the aux trans cooler should help too


Consider running the DERALE as a stand alone cooler. By design they are intended to be used "stand alone". I kept the radiator in the circuit on mine and feel it isnt necessary at all. Since you are allready concerned with removing heat sources from your engine cooling system this is the way to go. when you cut the line's to plumb the DERALE simply cut the in and out from the factory trans lines to the radiator down low and leave them installed in the radiator zip tied out of the way. In the event you end up living in Vail and want the trans heat from the radiator it is easily plumbed back in with clamps and hoses.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
2

2007YukonXL

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2015
Posts
42
Reaction score
27
>and just to clarify the OEM lines are steel. Aluminum would be fragile in that size.

THANKS for the clarification and keeping me honest.

So I have seen there is a transmission cooler that is mounted in front of the radiator and condenser on a bracket. T

https://transmissioncoolerguide.com/best-transmission-coolers-silverado-sierra/


His looks like an OEM device so the questions are...

-Is this a bolt on kit or is it a universal type deal that I need to fabricate?

-Is it plumbed after the internal radiator cooler or is it used in lieu of the internal radiator cooler?

-Regarding the STEEL lines (see learning has taken place), to install the external trans cooler in front of the radiator does the kit designed so that you un-plug the steel line from the outlet of the radiator cooler and then connect the kit supplied steel lines up to the new cooler in front of the radiator and then it contains a second steel line that returns to the now loose end of the return steel line?

Thanks in advance for whatever advice you can throw my way!!!
 

Bill 1960

Testing the Limits
Joined
Dec 17, 2020
Posts
1,480
Reaction score
2,862
See the link in post #2, I just did what you’re asking about. That’s the OEM cooler in the picture in your link. You can buy everything at the dealer, or use online sources to buy it. That’s 100% bolt on using factory parts.

In the factory configuration, it runs to the radiator, then out of that to the front air cooler, then returns to the trans. There’s a short line to install from the radiator top connection to the air cooler. The return line goes from the air cooler all the way back to the trans. The original return line is removed and discarded.

A practical person might decide to cut the original return line and splice in just a part of the new return, because it’s not easy to remove and reinstall the connection on the trans. Space is very tight.

Not many people will install the OEM equipment because aftermarket is less expensive and cools more, if you get a big one.
 

trailblazer

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2019
Posts
281
Reaction score
394
Trans cooler output AT at the trans is VERY tight due to the front driveshaft. I used the original fitting and used my brake flaring tool (bubble flare) to keep the hoses from slipping off.

dd48c3701dec5e635eff0b9a5147576c.jpg
96948cf0699193f210a6c349803f36dd.jpg
289a0b2b7541b6dd7dcfa8844f8855bd.jpg
4ac473d09b752047fdb067fd9dca8e82.jpg
750455ceab9b56bc5c067f4dcf80ab4b.jpg
42fe8b55c864d798b9d44733ed95e83b.jpg
40aa0f96b9a38281f1e8a5f34cc10aa0.jpg
a2428cf2b95b14929013d8df7049fbf1.jpg
 

Monz11

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2020
Posts
252
Reaction score
617
Location
Da Burg, Fl
Wish I would have had this knowledge before I changed my mind and thought TruCool would be a better option than the Derale.
Now I guess I'm going sell my TruCool or send it back
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,366
Posts
1,866,800
Members
96,989
Latest member
Mreedini
Top