bigblackdog
TYF Newbie
I hate auto correct. I really can spell and input the correct grammar
Troubled 03 yukon
- Thread starter kc9dre
- Start date
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OP
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kc9dre
Member
Ok folks dropped it off at a shop that has had it since Thursday of last week. Stopped in to check on the problem and they can't seem to figure it out as well so it's not just me at this point...
When I first got it a year ago it was getting a mismatch on the tps. Read then in this forum that those connection really need to be soldered and the ones I had then was crimped. So after that it ran great.
I read in the history here about the MAF but will that just throw the p1518? It has been cleaned but not replaced...
Other suggestions I have seen posted do not seem to be related the the code being thrown... it is just a p1518 unless that is what the pcm throws out when it hasn't a clue...
I really didn't mean to come off as an ass in the original post this is part of the reason I tool a little time away from posting as the truck has me in a really bad mood and didn't mean to take it out on any of you and for that I do apologize.
I verified ground with a multimeter and it very close to 0 with a reading of 0.01 to 0.03
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When I first got it a year ago it was getting a mismatch on the tps. Read then in this forum that those connection really need to be soldered and the ones I had then was crimped. So after that it ran great.
I read in the history here about the MAF but will that just throw the p1518? It has been cleaned but not replaced...
Other suggestions I have seen posted do not seem to be related the the code being thrown... it is just a p1518 unless that is what the pcm throws out when it hasn't a clue...
I really didn't mean to come off as an ass in the original post this is part of the reason I tool a little time away from posting as the truck has me in a really bad mood and didn't mean to take it out on any of you and for that I do apologize.
I verified ground with a multimeter and it very close to 0 with a reading of 0.01 to 0.03
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Hmmm ... :
http://www.engine-codes.com/p1518_gmc.html
Looks like ... it should have been solved but it's still there ... the code.??? The one thing a new part and an old part would have in common is the wiring harness. And well the ECM but I've read that the TPS should always have a 5 volt signal on one of the wires (Yellow) I belive on GM's and if it does not then there is a problem with the ECM. Is the harness to the TPS replaceable???
http://www.engine-codes.com/p1518_gmc.html
Looks like ... it should have been solved but it's still there ... the code.??? The one thing a new part and an old part would have in common is the wiring harness. And well the ECM but I've read that the TPS should always have a 5 volt signal on one of the wires (Yellow) I belive on GM's and if it does not then there is a problem with the ECM. Is the harness to the TPS replaceable???
OP
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kc9dre
Member
Yes on this particular model the TPS has to 5 volt reference signals it has two grounds and it has two signals for different signals for it to compare to see if there is a throttle mismatch I believe that was like a 1516 code or even a 15 15 15 17 but not the 1518 that I'm getting now is a communication between the ECM and the throttle control module mounted on the firewall at least from my understanding of things thus far
The mechanic also stated that with the coaches throwing it should do it while it is sitting still however it doesn't it only does it when you ever you put it into gear and drive it putting the engine under load.
From the beginning I have been suspect of the harness itself but that is a pricey part just to throw at it to see if it might fix it and when it comes to wiring harnesses I'm more apt to replace it with a new one versus getting one out of a salvage yard because you have no idea who may have cut what or have done to it or that could be the whole reason why it's there to begin with because somebody didn't want to sit down and repair the issue
It's times like this I really miss my 67 Oldsmobile that I had
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The mechanic also stated that with the coaches throwing it should do it while it is sitting still however it doesn't it only does it when you ever you put it into gear and drive it putting the engine under load.
From the beginning I have been suspect of the harness itself but that is a pricey part just to throw at it to see if it might fix it and when it comes to wiring harnesses I'm more apt to replace it with a new one versus getting one out of a salvage yard because you have no idea who may have cut what or have done to it or that could be the whole reason why it's there to begin with because somebody didn't want to sit down and repair the issue
It's times like this I really miss my 67 Oldsmobile that I had
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kc9dre
Member
As far as the low voltage aspect I have had both the battery and alternator tested and they have shown good as well. But it just takes a spike or drop for a split second to cause this issue but again tossing parts at it in hopes is getting expensive.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Hmmm ... well this sucks!! If your paying someone to fix it ... they should not still need your help??? But plan "B" since the harness to the TPS is not a separate unit ... You could make one .... yes ... Junk Yard part find a similar model and cut a foot or so back from the original TPS and splice it in, I'd use crimps myself ads a solder connection might change the resistance??? You'd then have the "original TPS connectors.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
Solder is always better than crimps and DOES NOT add resistance. If anything it will decrease the chance of corrosion getting into the crimps and adding resistance. Even better yet, solder and then use heat shrink instead of electrical tape. Never use crimps in an area that might get moisture.
LOL ... "Always" better ... that's "interesting??? Pretty much "millions of engineers ... would disagree with that "claim??"
As would most makers of "Standalone Engine Management Systems" most of whom recommend "Crimped" connections with "Proper Tools."
The "Aircraft" industry use "Miles" of wring and they don't solder, solder joints can "work harden" with heat and vibration and crack and break. A solder joint ... depends on the "quality of the individual making the joint" a proper crimp tool ... not so much.
As for "solder" "adding resistance??" Most likely if one uses an 80/20 Silver solder ... "resistance" won't be an issue?? And water proofing/moisture?? AFAIK "Heat Shrink Tubing" ... does not care how the union is made???
But hey ... "SUV's" don't fly at 15,000 ft + feet and 300 to 500 mph above the earth?? So sure folks are free to "Solder" away. Not my call just sharing what I know
And as for "Solder vs Crimp" in general terms .... "Goggle, is your friend."
https://www.google.com/search?q=boe...ome..69i57.13184j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
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kc9dre
Member
When I was in the military I was taught how to solder to NASA standards I've never heard about crimping to NASA standards
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
I have no reason to doubt you.
Still "Motec" for one recommends "Crimped" connections but hey ... one could Solder, Crimp and Heat Shrink, that should produce a sound connection.
