The ign. Switch isn't located down on colum. Its opposite the key. Its unlikely a switch problem because it gets a reaction from rotation. After reading may reply he's describing a lower voltage reading every time he trys it..?? Makes no sense. What seems to be Working is the start voltage to the starter. This eliminates switch and relay. Bad internally corroded pos cable is rare but happens. Load test! I've started many vehicles beating on th starter while someone held th key..bad starter for sure. I've seen internally shorted batterys. Wierd and sometimes scary! The click and drop out sounds exactly like improper connections. If you Know You have good starter and battery all that's left is the cable!! Good luckI think you are confused.
Crap happens, doesn't matter what you did, now was when it decided to quit.
Everyone that suggested the starter would be close but no cigar.
To test the starter you must take it off, take it to advance Auto Parts and they can check it out.
My guess, and it's just a guess is that your ignition switch is bad.
Person that asked about alarm was also a good guess.
Most of those trucks already have remote starter, but aftermarket is a sure fire way to screw up the wiring.
Everything runs off the body control module.
Light amperage draw is monitored by BCM.
When you don't know what you are doing, don't screw with it.
You didn't know what you were doing!
As l tell my 85 year old father, it's not a 55. Chevy.
There are no points plug and condenser.
You can't fix it with a screwdriver, pliers and a socket wrench.
You can throw good money after bad at it or you can take it to the garage.
Drop the panel below the steering column and look at the wiring, jiggle it.
Go to the parts store and buy a ignition switch.
Watch the YouTube video how to install it.
If that doesn't help call a tow truck.
I junked that model of truck 3 years ago, just wasn't worth keeping on life support anymore.