Trying to get low

[Tonyrodz]

If they don’t give you a printout with before, after and stock allowable settings they probably don’t want you to know how they did.

Even when they do give you the print outs and some are in the red, "That's the best we can do because you lowered/lifted it". Yeah, I've heard that one before.

 

[iamdub]

Even when they do give you the print outs and some are in the red, "That's the best we can do because you lowered/lifted it". Yeah, I've heard that one before.

This is my point in my previous reply to you. Nowadays, big-name lowering components such as Belltech, DJM and McGaughy's have so much engineered into their products that proper alignment after the install should not be a problem. Hell, General Motors awarded McGaughy's for their lowering products!

IIRC, Sam used all top-notch products with intent. If I were him and a shop told me they could only do so much, I'd be asking questions. About the only issue I can think of would be lack of adjustability for the amount of drop. But, I think he took care of that with the Belltech camber eccentrics and even has/had the offset bushings.

 

[Rocket Man]

I've never had a problem with an alignment of my lowered vehicles. Granted I do use quality parts but I think it's more of where you go. I haven't had The Machine aligned yet; it drives straight as an arrow. But I'd be curious to know if it can hold alignment all the way from slammed to raised almost all the way up. I know that unlike a lot of bagged rigs, the camber holds true no matter the ride height.

 

[kbuskill]

I only take my vehicles to places that will let me stand in there and watch what they are doing.

If you want to tell me your insurance won't allow me to be there, then I will go else where... simple as that.

 

[kbuskill]

I know that unlike a lot of bagged rigs, the camber holds true no matter the ride height.

Not doubting you, just curious... how was this achieved???

With regular suspension the control arms will pull the camber in and out with just the cycling of the suspension.

 

[Rocket Man]

Not doubting you, just curious... how was this achieved???

With regular suspension the control arms will pull the camber in and out with just the cycling of the suspension.

Custom control arms made to do it and heim joints for the steering.I’m not sure of the exact geometry involved since I didn’t do it myself but it’s pretty cool to watch.

 

[992dr]

The top was when you brought the truck in and the bottom is when it left.

The camber is still off... only it shows positive camber which would cause the outside edges to wear faster.

Seems like something may be broken of loose. I do feel something in my steering during my short commute.

There are three dimensions to adjust for: toe, camber and caster. Well, there's thrust angle, but let's keep it basic. Toe and camber are the easiest to nail. Getting the caster set is a little more of a pain cuz it affects the camber when you adjust for it and vice versa. It can kinda be a balancing act. Also, if you have aftermarket control arms and/or spindles, the way the parts swing/tilt/articulate as the suspension is cycled when driving could be vastly different than with the stock parts. For instance, with the stock parts, the toe, caster and camber may only move out of their static settings a few tenths of a degree (just to throw out a number). With the aftermarket parts, the new geometry could cause the toe, caster and camber to swing more than a full degree(again, just throwing out a number) away from their static settings. This is why I asked if you felt a difference in the steering after it was lowered and aligned. A "drastic" (even as small as 1 degree or maybe less) change in caster and toe could very well make a noticeable change in the feel of the steering, especially when hitting large and shallow dips and humps on the highway.

Looking at the that printout, and as Ken pointed out, your camber is almost a full degree out with positive camber. I believe the stock settings call for a slight bit of negative camber. If so, you're almost a full degree out of spec on the camber.

Also, as Ken mentioned, positive camber would cause the outside edges to wear. I'm no expert, but that printout and your inner shoulder wear tells me that the tires are toeing out or cambering in as the suspension cycles, like there's a lot of extra movement going on.

I'd first make sure your parts are all good- no loose bolts, etc. and have another reputable shop check the alignment. There's a chance the first shop's equipment is out of calibration.

After driving for the past few days, I've noticed how my steering feels. Its definitely wishy washy. I'm going to have to get under it this weekend to check it out.

I'm going to look around for another shop to. The shop I had gone to, they do not allow customers out back. What's crazy is, I am usually all over them about watching but with an alignment, never thought of it.

Question--so the shops shoo you out the door with your alignment still not right because the average person doesn't know squat about alignment specs? Actually more of a statement I guess.

This is my point in my previous reply to you. Nowadays, big-name lowering components such as Belltech, DJM and McGaughy's have so much engineered into their products that proper alignment after the install should not be a problem. Hell, General Motors awarded McGaughy's for their lowering products!

IIRC, Sam used all top-notch products with intent. If I were him and a shop told me they could only do so much, I'd be asking questions. About the only issue I can think of would be lack of adjustability for the amount of drop. But, I think he took care of that with the Belltech camber eccentrics and even has/had the offset bushings.

That was my whole point in using reputable components. Not really thinking the shop would slack. I'm finding it more common than not around here. You cant find good anything in this area.
The shop said "it was a little out" and "that's the best they could do" .
I had the alignment bushings installed but removed them after lifting it back up.

I only take my vehicles to places that will let me stand in there and watch what they are doing.

If you want to tell me your insurance won't allow me to be there, then I will go else where... simple as that.

This shop does not allow customers in the back. I'm usually the one who is all but on top of the mechanic when I do drop my Tahoe off. This shop would not allow that though.

I may go look for another alignment shop, its just hard to find around me.

 

[992dr]

Ok, finally had a little time to get under there and check things out. Actually literally just came in from looking. Looked under while my daughter was turning the wheel and everything looked good. Then I went to look at the rack.

I think I found my culprit.

Here's a question for you guys. Is the steering rack supposed to move when turning the wheel?












J/k, I know its not supposed to move

 

[992dr]

Well, its been a while and I really have no suspension updates but, I do want to drop the rear another inch.

I have Tony's 6" coil with the isolator removed and heater hose around the coil to give me roughly another 3/4" but I'd like to try to get another inch.

How the heck can I achieve this?

 

[iamdub]

Are any of the coils of that 6" drop spring compressed and resting on each other? IIRC, you could get an extra inch of drop from the 5" coils by cutting off some of the "dead" coils. They're compressed against the others so they're just acting like spacers at that point. Just have to be careful that the spring can still expand enough to remain in place if the suspension is unloaded during large amounts of cycling, like when ramping up on bigger humps.

Just bag the damned thing.