nimrod.sixty9
Hold on, I got this.
Got alignment done and tech said I need UCA bushings replaced. Looking to tackle this today. Anyone got any tips? Tools needed? Writeups?
99 Kon 2WD
99 Kon 2WD
UCA Bushings need replacing
- Thread starter nimrod.sixty9
- Start date
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Gzes
the drifting 2dr
If its like the ones I've seen I would just replace the whole arm. If not then press the new ones in
OP
OP
nimrod.sixty9
Hold on, I got this.
Note that I dont have 4x4, just 2. Can I push them in at home or do I need a shop? If I need a shop, might as well just buy the whole unit.
Also, just relaized Ill need to get the camber/caster adjuster kit. Do I need special bushings for this?
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Another question; do I have to completely remove the UCA to get to these bushings, or can it swivel it while still having the ball joint connected?
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The bolt kit may not be needed, but good to replace anyway.
Yes they need to come off. Easier to pull the whole thing.
You will need to pull the ball joint, to get the spring out.
Take the upper ball joint nut loose, not off. Smack the spindle around the ball joint "bolt" to break it loose. The upper control arm will jump up.
Then put a jack under the lower control arm, jack it up a a little. (take the tension off the ball joint nut) Take the nut off, slowly lower the control arm.
The spindle will lean out, the spring may or may not fall out. You may have to lift the upper control arm and push the lower down.
From their take the control arm bolts out. Press out the old bushings, then new in. Reinstall.
You will want a long bar to put the spring back in, along with a jack.
If you want it to be quick, you want new arms. New arms, bushings, ball joint.
Keep in mind, the shock, sway bar end link will need to come off.
May or may not need to take the tie rod off.
Yes they need to come off. Easier to pull the whole thing.
You will need to pull the ball joint, to get the spring out.
Take the upper ball joint nut loose, not off. Smack the spindle around the ball joint "bolt" to break it loose. The upper control arm will jump up.
Then put a jack under the lower control arm, jack it up a a little. (take the tension off the ball joint nut) Take the nut off, slowly lower the control arm.
The spindle will lean out, the spring may or may not fall out. You may have to lift the upper control arm and push the lower down.
From their take the control arm bolts out. Press out the old bushings, then new in. Reinstall.
You will want a long bar to put the spring back in, along with a jack.
If you want it to be quick, you want new arms. New arms, bushings, ball joint.
Keep in mind, the shock, sway bar end link will need to come off.
May or may not need to take the tie rod off.
OP
OP
nimrod.sixty9
Hold on, I got this.
Why do I need to take the spring off? Im only doing the upper CA bushings.
Also, I know I do need the cam bolt kit as my camber is way off.
Really appreacite the help!
retorq
Full Access Member
If you are doing just the uppers and you are careful you can get away with leaving the spring in and and lower arm on.
You will need to take the arm completely off unless the old rubber is literally falling out or missing. I would do the ball joints while you are there of they are originals ...
It can be done at home with the right stuff.
As for the bolt kit I can't say with 100% certainty but my truck was stock and it just needed the factory alignment plate removed to allow the bolts to function correctly.
You will need to take the arm completely off unless the old rubber is literally falling out or missing. I would do the ball joints while you are there of they are originals ...
It can be done at home with the right stuff.
As for the bolt kit I can't say with 100% certainty but my truck was stock and it just needed the factory alignment plate removed to allow the bolts to function correctly.
Yep your right the spring can stay. Wasn't thinking but yes you can leave it.
Would be a good idea to keep a jack under the lower control arm.
If you get a arm it's a relatively easy swap.
Tire off, pop the upper ball joint loose of the spindle, pull the ball joint out.
Control arm bolts, pull it put, new one in.
Something I can do both sides probably an hour at most if I get off my butt and do it.
But I do have some tools a lot of people don't, like an impact, and shop press.
Putting ball joints and control arm bushings on my wifes right now. Just to lazy to touch it today.
Mark the control arm bolts/frame before you take them out. Then mark the new washers. Even if the alignment is off, it will keep it from being real bad when you put it back together.
If you do the lowers, you can buy arms for that too. If you plan on it any time in the future, or even steering components. I got a lifetime alignment at firestone for 150, apparently normally 180.
The knockouts. When you take the bolts out of the upper control arm the frame should have an oval hole. If it is just a round hole, you need to knock out the knock outs.
Kinda like perforated paper but a hammer and punch work much better for this.
Oval hole is already their just need to pop the inserts out.
---------- Post added at 01:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 AM ----------
This is the knock outs. Go figure only on the pass side on mine.
Will take a pic of the frame/attachement point if I remember when I run out in a bit.
---------- Post added at 01:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
Here's your other pic.
May look different as this one is 4wd, however the knockouts will be the same. You can see the knock the center Both outers are gone.
Would be a good idea to keep a jack under the lower control arm.
If you get a arm it's a relatively easy swap.
Tire off, pop the upper ball joint loose of the spindle, pull the ball joint out.
Control arm bolts, pull it put, new one in.
Something I can do both sides probably an hour at most if I get off my butt and do it.
But I do have some tools a lot of people don't, like an impact, and shop press.
Putting ball joints and control arm bushings on my wifes right now. Just to lazy to touch it today.
Mark the control arm bolts/frame before you take them out. Then mark the new washers. Even if the alignment is off, it will keep it from being real bad when you put it back together.
If you do the lowers, you can buy arms for that too. If you plan on it any time in the future, or even steering components. I got a lifetime alignment at firestone for 150, apparently normally 180.
The knockouts. When you take the bolts out of the upper control arm the frame should have an oval hole. If it is just a round hole, you need to knock out the knock outs.
Kinda like perforated paper but a hammer and punch work much better for this.
Oval hole is already their just need to pop the inserts out.
---------- Post added at 01:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 AM ----------
This is the knock outs. Go figure only on the pass side on mine.
Will take a pic of the frame/attachement point if I remember when I run out in a bit.
---------- Post added at 01:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
Here's your other pic.
May look different as this one is 4wd, however the knockouts will be the same. You can see the knock the center Both outers are gone.
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OP
OP
nimrod.sixty9
Hold on, I got this.
i think some of the issue here guys is that mine is 2WD, not 4. So I hope that someone can jump in and clarify what I need.
Also, I dont think I can replace the ball joints as they a riveted in. The whole UCA is $121 each
While the bushins are $6 a set and $15 for the ball joint...
Also, I dont think I can replace the ball joints as they a riveted in. The whole UCA is $121 each
While the bushins are $6 a set and $15 for the ball joint...
retorq
Full Access Member
Mine is 2wd, the rivets can be cut or drilled out pretty easily once the arm is out. I did mine when I did my bushings.
96 Silverado that is mine (99 wifes Tahoe, pictured above)
It's not a 2wd or 4wd thing for me. The spring I will give ya, did mine in 09 have not touched the springs before or after.
Shops usually change the control arm, it's more expensive for parts, a lot quicker to change. Cheaper on labor, so you save money having the control arm changed.
However if you do it yourself. I would recommend doing poly bushings. Energy suspension (not sure about others) black bushings have graphite in them to prevent squeaking.
Get new upper ball joint they come with bolts. You should have 3 rivets and one bolt. The bolt holds the brake line.
I grind the rivets off, then with a hammer and punch punch them through.
It's not a 2wd or 4wd thing for me. The spring I will give ya, did mine in 09 have not touched the springs before or after.
Shops usually change the control arm, it's more expensive for parts, a lot quicker to change. Cheaper on labor, so you save money having the control arm changed.
However if you do it yourself. I would recommend doing poly bushings. Energy suspension (not sure about others) black bushings have graphite in them to prevent squeaking.
Get new upper ball joint they come with bolts. You should have 3 rivets and one bolt. The bolt holds the brake line.
I grind the rivets off, then with a hammer and punch punch them through.
