Useless Information

[BG1988]

My gas mileage is tough to compare since most of my driving is a less distance of 8 miles.
So when you drive only local your MPG is naturally awful. But I fill up once every 6 weeks.

I use regular grade Shell gas...... Should I be using a higher grade anyway??

just use chevron or Mobil you will get more mpg even if you only get 1 to 1.5mpg for 10 cent more a gallon it will be worth it
2.349/gallon
0.167 Per mile @14mpg
0.142 per mile @16.5mpg


it works out better and AFM works better with 91 octane as it does not knock like it does with 87 octane(verifed via OBD2 readings) sometimes you end up in active fuel management loop of death with 87 octane


basically the engine will self destruct..


it's a considerable difference when it's at almost $4 a gallon
Premium Fuel at mobil
$3.789
$0.164 @23MPG(Highway on my last fill up)

Arco
Compared to Regular @ $3.359 (cheapest station)
18.5MPG highway at the most of the time (it down shifts into 3rd gear @ v8 that is why)
$0.181 is my cost per mile


So in reality i'm spending $4.163/ per gallon to go 23 miles with the cheaper regular Acro fuel.. the math never lies..

I would use the regular acro gas IF i was local city driving only since the MPG city is 20-22MPG or so the savings is not very much... maybe like 0.05cents or so

I also tried their 91 premium fuel I suspect I was getting watered down to 88 or 89 octane since there was no difference from the 91 and 87 octane Acro Fuel except for the higher price.. The same issue also happened at Shell gas station 91 and 87 got the same MPG( this happened at two different stations. for both.)

I never have this issue at the Mobil or Chevron station.
Additional cost $0.43 cent "upfront"
Net savings of $0.374 per gallon
saving $1.87 to $2.24 each fill up(about 5-6 gallons increments )

 

[swathdiver]

Tried E15 aka 88 the other day from the local Sunoco. Wife complained about the gas mileage but she did get caught in a traffic jam.

Anyhow, that tank went 346 miles and used 23.6 gallons for 14.7 MPG. Cost per mile was sixteen cents, not bad. The alcohol content was out of spec, just 9%. Filled her back up with Mobil's 93 today. Don't know what's going on with these Sunoco guys. Truck will probably surpass 150K by the time she's refueled again. Collecting fluids to change the differentials and transmission and transfer case again soon. Finally starting to cool off outside too. Looking forward to fall weather.

Oh, replaced the gas cap hoping to solve that pesky P0442 and the code comes back more often now! LOL That's going back to Amazon.

 

[mountie]

I use Regular gas since I am only driving close to home...... I will use premium if I take it on a trip to Palm Beach ( 250 miles - give or take )

 

[Glisella]

Tried E15 aka 88 the other day from the local Sunoco. Wife complained about the gas mileage but she did get caught in a traffic jam.

Anyhow, that tank went 346 miles and used 23.6 gallons for 14.7 MPG. Cost per mile was sixteen cents, not bad. The alcohol content was out of spec, just 9%. Filled her back up with Mobil's 93 today. Don't know what's going on with these Sunoco guys. Truck will probably surpass 150K by the time she's refueled again. Collecting fluids to change the differentials and transmission and transfer case again soon. Finally starting to cool off outside too. Looking forward to fall weather.

Oh, replaced the gas cap hoping to solve that pesky P0442 and the code comes back more often now! LOL That's going back to Amazon.

I'm chasing the same p0442 on my '08 Denali. Already replaced purge valve under hood and new AC Delco gas cap comes Friday. I guess if it still happens after that I'll be under the truck pulling hoses.

 

[swathdiver]

I'm chasing the same p0442 on my '08 Denali. Already replaced purge valve under hood and new AC Delco gas cap comes Friday. I guess if it still happens after that I'll be under the truck pulling hoses.

My new AC Delco gas cap from Amazon caused the code to come back almost twice as fast. About a month ago that code was accompanied by a code for the fuel tank pressure sensor but has not returned since. It's a clue though. Going to buy a smoke machine in a couple of weeks after these birthdays are out of the way.

 

[swathdiver]

The truck has been racking up the miles lately and has surpassed 150K now.

The other day we rotated the KO2 tires and did our tread depth checks, the fronts were worn down 3/32 on the inside since the last rotation, 8,200 miles ago. Could this be caused by a crash stop? About a week ago we had to make an emergency stop on the highway and the truck went from 50 or so MPH to zero in less than two car lengths. I've heard of bending tie rods with 4x4 launches while drag racing, could it happen while stopping? Tires have almost 36K miles and have 8/32 of tread left.

Yesterday my lovely wife had the truck professionally washed, waxed, shampooed, claybared, etc. A week before we bought one of those Duplicolor paint correction pens to clean out rust, fill in the color one of three ways and apply clear coat, all in one pen. Now that the rains have mostly stopped, we'll do some paint correcting soon.

Today my youngest child with my supervision, changed the transfer case fluid and front differential fluid. Had trouble locating GM/ACDelco fluid that cross with the original so I went with Lucas 80W90, LUC10043 for the front differential. Fluid came out black for 36K miles and there was a fair amount of metal on the magnet, no chunks though. We just added some not much more than a month ago.

The transfer case fluid was starting to turn brown and there was very little on the magnet, not even enough to coat it. Dexron VI went back in. We used a new JABSCO Drill Pump (17215-0000) with a 1/2" pickup and 1/4" delivery hose hooked up to a cordless drill. Once we put tie wraps on the output side adapter and hose, no more mess.

Next comes the rear differential and transmission. I'm mulling over how to do the trans, fluid exchange again or drop the pain and replace the filter with 1/2 or all of the fluid? The Tech-2 says the fluid life is at 79% or so last time I looked. It's been 35K miles.

Front Differential - 18mm fill plug and 13mm drain plug. Transfer Case - 18mm Fill and Drain Plugs.

 

[R3cord303]

The truck has been racking up the miles lately and has surpassed 150K now.

The other day we rotated the KO2 tires and did our tread depth checks, the fronts were worn down 3/32 on the inside since the last rotation, 8,200 miles ago. Could this be caused by a crash stop? About a week ago we had to make an emergency stop on the highway and the truck went from 50 or so MPH to zero in less than two car lengths. I've heard of bending tie rods with 4x4 launches while drag racing, could it happen while stopping? Tires have almost 36K miles and have 8/32 of tread left.

Yesterday my lovely wife had the truck professionally washed, waxed, shampooed, claybared, etc. A week before we bought one of those Duplicolor paint correction pens to clean out rust, fill in the color one of three ways and apply clear coat, all in one pen. Now that the rains have mostly stopped, we'll do some paint correcting soon.

Today my youngest child with my supervision, changed the transfer case fluid and front differential fluid. Had trouble locating GM/ACDelco fluid that cross with the original so I went with Lucas 80W90, LUC10043 for the front differential. Fluid came out black for 36K miles and there was a fair amount of metal on the magnet, no chunks though. We just added some not much more than a month ago.

The transfer case fluid was starting to turn brown and there was very little on the magnet, not even enough to coat it. Dexron VI went back in. We used a new JABSCO Drill Pump (17215-0000) with a 1/2" pickup and 1/4" delivery hose hooked up to a cordless drill. Once we put tie wraps on the output side adapter and hose, no more mess.

Next comes the rear differential and transmission. I'm mulling over how to do the trans, fluid exchange again or drop the pain and replace the filter with 1/2 or all of the fluid? The Tech-2 says the fluid life is at 79% or so last time I looked. It's been 35K miles.

Front Differential - 18mm fill plug and 13mm drain plug. Transfer Case - 18mm Fill and Drain Plugs.


View attachment 231764

If you're conserned about tire wear- have your alignment checked- especially if you have messed with ride height at all. I had my alignment checked day after I installed the leveling blocks, and the toe and camber were all out of whack. I'm taking it back in tomorrow morning because they didn't get it quite right.

 

[swathdiver]

If you're conserned about tire wear- have your alignment checked- especially if you have messed with ride height at all. I had my alignment checked day after I installed the leveling blocks, and the toe and camber were all out of whack. I'm taking it back in tomorrow morning because they didn't get it quite right.

All original and stock suspension. Tire wear was perfect until very recently, that's why I was wondering if that crash stop might have affected something. Then again, my wife has been driving it a lot and she likes to drive fast. We were under there today and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Might take another look before taking it in for the alignment. If I do take it in for the alignment, we'll first dig out our Rough Country Leveling Kit and get those installed first. If the tie rods are bent, we'll replace them ourselves too. Sure would like those ones that LMC Truck sells! Tie rods are not original though, they are 5/8 thick and stock are 1/2" thick.

 

[R3cord303]

All original and stock suspension. Tire wear was perfect until very recently, that's why I was wondering if that crash stop might have affected something. Then again, my wife has been driving it a lot and she likes to drive fast. We were under there today and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Might take another look before taking it in for the alignment. If I do take it in for the alignment, we'll first dig out our Rough Country Leveling Kit and get those installed first. If the tie rods are bent, we'll replace them ourselves too. Sure would like those ones that LMC Truck sells! Tie rods are not original though, they are 5/8 thick and stock are 1/2" thick.

Have you got the same $50 spacers I got? A panic stop like that shouldn't throw anything off, especially if you've got thicker ones. Jack it up and do the wiggle side to side and up and down and see if you have play. Right before I bought mine it got new upper and lower control arms and tie rods. A bad wheel bearing, or control arm bushings or even someone hitting a bad pot hole can throw off alignment. Obviously you'll need an alignment if you get new tie rods, even if you install them to the same number of threads.

I'm not sure if I like this leveling kit. I've always loved throwing it into corners, and before the leveling kit it cornered better than my old s10 did. Will see if it drives better after the alignment is spot on. Now it seems like it wants to wander down the road more. Will see. I need to readjust to the change in the way the vehicle reacts. Even if I'm gonna miss out on the hard cornering, I think it will be worth it to not rip the bumper off if it snows, or be able to "off road" now. And by that I mean I'll actually to be able to go over the curb to pull into the back yard now without crunching plastic.

 

[swathdiver]

Have you got the same $50 spacers I got? A panic stop like that shouldn't throw anything off, especially if you've got thicker ones. Jack it up and do the wiggle side to side and up and down and see if you have play. Right before I bought mine it got new upper and lower control arms and tie rods. A bad wheel bearing, or control arm bushings or even someone hitting a bad pot hole can throw off alignment. Obviously you'll need an alignment if you get new tie rods, even if you install them to the same number of threads.

I'm not sure if I like this leveling kit. I've always loved throwing it into corners, and before the leveling kit it cornered better than my old s10 did. Will see if it drives better after the alignment is spot on. Now it seems like it wants to wander down the road more. Will see. I need to readjust to the change in the way the vehicle reacts. Even if I'm gonna miss out on the hard cornering, I think it will be worth it to not rip the bumper off if it snows, or be able to "off road" now. And by that I mean I'll actually to be able to go over the curb to pull into the back yard now without crunching plastic.

Yeah, right after we bought this one, I drove it through the yard and over the swale and promptly popped the front end and wheel well liners off! LOL Yes, the little RC shock spacers is what we bought. Alignment specs are critical. If I understand the art of an alignment right, in your case, since you like powering through those on ramps, you would want to put the caster at max settings.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4