Want To Buy but Question About Mileage

[Hi-psi]

Essentially paying a "sales tax" every year.

Well, yes/no. Previously each year you had to pay a tax to renew your registration/tag. It was usually $100-300 for any relatively new vehicle. Now, with the new registration model, you only pay like $15 each year to renew your registration.

 

[Jcarlson]

Yeah that's ********. Here in Ohio I just renewed my Trailblazer, motorcycle, and three trailers and I thought it sucked paying $250 for all that.

We pay sales tax when we transfer title. What they've done here for sales tax is if I write you a receipt for $100 for the purchase of a Tahoe, they know thats crap and will charge you tax based on the value of the car, not what the receipt says. That's their way of combating the flippers. The flippers rarely transfer titles anyway so what did it do, right?

 

[Miami-Dade]

My questions are -
1) where in the heck is everyone going where they all have that kind of mileage in a short amount of time?

Most people who own these vehicles [like myself] use them a lot for long trips. I used to rent Tahoe's and Suburban's all the time before buying one. All the one year old Tahoe's and Suburban's had 40K miles or more. I have not even had my Hoe for 2 years yet and I am just turned 40K miles.

I do not have a issue buying a high mileage vehicle as long as I have ALL service records. If it was serviced every 5K miles [even better with Mobil 1] you should be good to go. Of coarse have a real good independent mechanic put it on the rack and have EVERYTHING checked out thoroughly.

 

[Doubeleive]

here in CA let's say you gift a vehicle to a friend or relative for $1.00, the DMV just ask's "what is the vehicle worth" and whatever you say is what they put in the system and base the tax on that, they don't have a set amount per vehicle make or model. but they wont accept it being worth a dollar on the same token you have to come up with something reasonably believable.

 

[Jcarlson]

Ok so back on topic here, the general consensus here isn't mileage but rather condition. I get that as I stated earlier I had two Grand Cherokees with 168k+ and both were in great shape.

I see on Carcomplaints.com 2007 was a bad year for oil consumption, but otherwise not a lot of issues mechanically. Are Tahoes built really well?

 

[fiatdale]

2007-2011ish were bad for oil consumption. Even some newer ones still are. There are ways around it that wont cost you a ton though.

Yes they are built solid. Youll love it for years to come.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

The oil consumption issue is a specific vehicle issue, not a model problem. Some drink oil like water. Some, not so much. Our '10 PPV uses zero oil, and my wife beats on it regularly. Got it with ~80K miles on it about 4 years ago, and it's now about 110K.

I now need to do motor mounts and front suspension R&R on the thing, but that's about it. Over 100K, like others have said, look at front end, motor mounts, and maybe have a look behind the throttle blade for the presence of caked oil, which would indicate an oil consumption issue. Many, though, control that with a catch can.

DOD can be an issue on some, too, but again, it's a specific vehicle issue, not a model problem. Our PPV is, as far as I can tell, still running on it's original lifters. Our '12 9C1, however, had the cam and lifters replaced at 48K miles by the dealer. You can never have a problem with it, but you can lose a lifter the day after you park it in your driveway. If this bothers you, plan to do a DOD-delete and new cam. You can do that mod, and gain some performance, too, if it's done right.

If the vehicles are in the rust belt, expect some extra issues due to salt on the roads. Other than that, which is pretty standard, purchasing one of these with >100K on the clock is not a big deal, as long as they get minimal maintenance. There's probably $3K-$4K bump if you look to buy one with less than 100K, but if you plan to own it a while, it might be worth the added expense.

These things, with a couple of exceptions, like the dash pad and motor mounts, are pretty well built.

 

[steve45]

When I look for a vehicle to buy, 100K is where I start looking. My current Tahoe had 90K+ miles, my current Suburban had about the same.

Mechanical problems haven't really been a problem, rather, all the plastic crap in the interior that literally crumbles in your hand when it gets old. Planning to replace the instrument panel in my wife's Tahoe and it's only 9 years old--and the original color isn't available!

 

[Matt81]

i was in a similar situation as you Jim. I always lease new cars and never looked at anything with high miles. My price point was the same as well. I have two kids and wanted something big and safe. Plus the car seat sitatuon was another issue for me. I purchased my 2011 SLT with 154,000 miles for 12 grand. Has leather heated seats, and a DVD player. I did my homework, checked car fax, and learned most of the miles had been highway and vehicle was serviced regularly. I have no regrets. The ride is still comfortable and it meets my families needs. Got a lot of vehicle for an affordable price! I plan on having the vehicle for a long time!

 

[Yukon1]

Hey folks, newb here. I've been wanting to buy a Tahoe but everything in my $20k or less price range all have well over 100k miles. Even higher price points have high miles.

My questions are -
1) where in the heck is everyone going where they all have that kind of mileage in a short amount of time?

2) at what point mileage wise do parts start needing replaced?

3) am I ok buying one with high miles?

I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles. I know things are different these days. I've had two Grand Cherokees and a Trailblazer with over 150k miles but at that point come the $1,500 repairs.

Thanks
Jim

Hey Jim, Per your own words, "I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles". My advise is to not change now. No SUV is worth investing 20k of your hard earned money in that has 100k on it already.

If you want a vehicle that will nickle and dime you to death, then spend your money. I wanted to do the same thing when I was looking for a truck, but I thought about it and decided to look for a two or three year old truck with under 30k, and if you look hard enough, you will find one.

I purchased my truck as a certified pre-owned vehicle with only 17k on it, and man am I glad I did.
It came with a 100k drive-train warranty, and an additional bumper to bumper warranty to 100k or 6 years from the original in service date.

You're 56 yrs old, and don't change now and start buying someone else problems. No matter what others say, high miles equals high miles and a lot of unexpected repair bills that at the end of your use for the truck, will equal paying for a newer truck with a factory warranty.

By yourself a newer two or even three year old (only certified pre-owned) truck, and just look online at places like cars.com for a truck. I had to travel 250 miles to a dealer to pick up my truck, but it was two years old with only 17k on it. They are out there, you don't have to settle for an older truck and pay grand theft money for a wore out vehicle that still looks good.

Take it from a 60 year old man, My 2015 GMC Yukon (purchased it in 2017) was a much better buy in the long run, than a 2010 piece of crap that a dealer detailed and made it look good as new. There is a reason you have never purchased a 100k mile vehicle, and there really is no real reason to start now.

Last point, why would any man in his right mind, spend 20k on a truck with 100k miles on it, and then be told by the dealer that it is being sold as is and shown? There's a reason the dealer wont warranty the truck, because he knows it will be nothing but a money draining pit. So don't let the dealer be smarter than you are, you are the one with the money to spend, spend it wisely or put it back in the bank,

OLD WORE OUT TRUCKS THAT LOOK GOOD AS AS GOOD AS A OLD WOMAN THAT STILL LOOKS GOOD, IF YOU WANT HER OR THE TRUCK TO KEEP OPERATING, THEY WILL BOTH COST YOU LOTS OF HARD EARNED MONEY! And you can take that fact to the bank.