I'm the same way - I tend to always unplug...but I do forget on occasion like I did a week ago when I left my car at the airport for a 10 day trip and my charger was still plugged in when I got back.
Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida - Can you help me make this a success!
- Thread starter bobby2175
- Start date
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mountie
Supporting Member
I have an inverter.... If I use it, it attaches directly to the battery with clips. ( I use an extension cig lighter cord to rewach inside the cab. I run the extension behind the passenger door hinge.
Sparksalot
Supporting Member
Couple more questions:
1. Hoping to finish up the heating/cooling system over the next few days. When pulling the transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator, I lost a little fluid. Where/how do I top these off?
2. I removed and thoroughly cleaned the throttle body. It was pretty dirty. I've read that I may need to do some recalibration after this to get the idle RPM back to normal. Does this require an advanced scan tool? Are there any shops like O'Reilly's or AutoZone that will do this? Or if I put some miles on it, will it just take care of itself?
1. Hoping to finish up the heating/cooling system over the next few days. When pulling the transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator, I lost a little fluid. Where/how do I top these off?
2. I removed and thoroughly cleaned the throttle body. It was pretty dirty. I've read that I may need to do some recalibration after this to get the idle RPM back to normal. Does this require an advanced scan tool? Are there any shops like O'Reilly's or AutoZone that will do this? Or if I put some miles on it, will it just take care of itself?
iamdub
Full Access Member
Pour it in through the dipstick tube. Gonna need one of those funnels with a long and skinny spout.
I think the ones that get "out of calibration" are the ones that were so dirty, the PCM has the idle location of the blade with it at what should be a partially open position. There's so much gunk built up that it seals the blade to the TB as if that's the fully parked position. After a good cleaning, this gunk "dam" is removed so now you have a blade that is cracked open too far at the idle position. The extreme cases could be because they were handled too roughly, like flicking open the throttle blade too fast. Maybe the gear inside jumps a tooth or something. I would say this is a damaged TB and not just "out of calibration". As for resetting (or attempting to), this is GM's procedure without a bi-directional scan tool:
GM IDLE RE-LEARN PROCEDURE
Perform the following relearn procedure for the on-board computer to adjust to the new idle position on the electronic throttle body.
1. Start and run the engine in PARK for 3 minutes.
2. Turn the engine OFF for a minimum of 60 seconds.
3. Start the engine and run for another 3 minutes.
4. Engine should idle normally after 3 minutes.
After having performed the relearn procedure and the engine still does not run within normal idle speed, it will be necessary to drive the vehicle above 45 mph (70 Km/h) including several decelerations. Also ensure that after driving the vehicle, let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 minutes.
If the engine has returned to normal idle speed, the relearn procedure is completed.
I've never known the big chain stores to use or loan out any bi-directional scan tools. A shop would have one. No clue on what they'd charge to force a reset. I've always reset the older 0411 PCMs ('99-'02?) by turning the key to 'ON' and pulling both PCM fuses. Turn key off, reinstall fuses and crank the engine. They'd often die and I'd have to restart them multiple times until they relearned idle well enough to go for a regular drive to let it adjust the other items.
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I definitely didn't move the blade, just worked around it, so hopefully I'm in good shape.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
You shouldn't have anything to worry about, then. You also didn't accomplish much of anything as that ledge of metal in front being clean isn't gonna make a lick of difference. But, that's fine. Leave it alone.
Just add approximately what was lost when you had the lines open. If just a few ounces, I wouldn't bother. If half a quart or more, add some. The proper way to check the level is with vehicle parked on level surface, engine idling in Park and after going through all the gears.
I actually made sure the ledge was completely clean. I used a toothbrush on both sides to loosen the dirt at the ledge, then used the red plastic nozzle that came with the cleaner to target blast the spray at the ledge until every particle of dirt was gone all the way around the ledge, then wiped all of that up with a rag. The blade position when I pulled the throttle body was in a very, very slightly opened position where I could get the ledge cleaned with a toothbrush. I'm guessing at this position, PCM is showing closed at idle like you mentioned because the dirt at that ledge allowed the blade to pretty much seal. After cleaning, I could see all the way through the throttle body because there was no dirt at the ledge anymore. I guess we'll see when I start it up.
I didn't lose much transmission oil visually, but I'm also unsure how much was in the old radiator itself. Is there a recommended oil to use here?
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Any fluid that meets the GM Dexron VI spec will do. I run Valvoline MaxLife.
