Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida - Can you help me make this a success!

[Doubeleive]

Checked all of the fuses and the flip down screen and they all look good/work. Rear entertainment is not on video. Any other suggestions?

meh, not sure
if you have a dvd inserted in the head unit remove it, then put it on radio and then on the rear control cycle thru all the inputs and see if the speakers kick on. that's the only thing I know of that turns the rear speakers off is when there is a dvd playing and/or the rear is set to another input.

 

[bobby2175]

Ok, figured it out and it was the dumbest thing. Actually, my wife solved it.

We started playing a DVD that was in the head unit to check the pop down screen and then stopped it which brought her to this screen:



She then started randomly changing the bottom buttons from surround to rear, driver, normal and ended up at surround again and it all worked again - all speakers were functional.

How would something like this even happen (or be connected) with the sequence of events with the dimmer, the display brightness, click at the speaker - all while nobody had a hand on the head unit?

 

[Doubeleive]

Ok, figured it out and it was the dumbest thing. Actually, my wife solved it.

We started playing a DVD that was in the head unit to check the pop down screen and then stopped it which brought her to this screen:

View attachment 417547

She then started randomly changing the bottom buttons from surround to rear, driver, normal and ended up at surround again and it all worked again - all speakers were functional.

How would something like this even happen (or be connected) with the sequence of events with the dimmer, the display brightness, click at the speaker - all while nobody had a hand on the head unit?

it happens, especially with the oem head unit, turning on a dvd cut's the rear speakers I guess so they can hear better with the headphones thru infrared

 

[iamdub]

That is so smart on looking at listings along the way - when you say marketplace, are you looking at Facebook?

Yup- Facebook Marketplace. It's all I use FB for. No friends, no posts, no nothing. I drive all over Louisiana and into Mississippi and Texas for work, so I have a huge area to search for things I want or even sell.

I definitely would want to meet up with several of you guys where I owe you at least a few 6-packs or some good bourbons - just don't see making it a little west towards you this time, but I really appreciate you mentioning it!

Coming all the way from MI, I had to mention it. No worries, though. Hell, I don't think I'm gonna be able to meet up with that other TYF member. Just too busy spending all my time with my grandparents.

 

[swathdiver]

Ok, figured it out and it was the dumbest thing. Actually, my wife solved it.

We started playing a DVD that was in the head unit to check the pop down screen and then stopped it which brought her to this screen:

View attachment 417547

She then started randomly changing the bottom buttons from surround to rear, driver, normal and ended up at surround again and it all worked again - all speakers were functional.

How would something like this even happen (or be connected) with the sequence of events with the dimmer, the display brightness, click at the speaker - all while nobody had a hand on the head unit?

I would say something got loose for a second and the unit lost some settings. Had this happen when the kids drained the battery and when the positive cable was loose on a trip. Both times the screen went bright which set internal codes.

Enjoy the trip and cruise and Happy New Year to y'all, including you Chris! @iamdub

 

[iamdub]

I would say something got loose for a second and the unit lost some settings. Had this happen when the kids drained the battery and when the positive cable was loose on a trip. Both times the screen went bright which set internal codes.

Enjoy the trip and cruise and Happy New Year to y'all, including you Chris! @iamdub

Thanks, James. I wish for joy, health, peace and prosperity to you and yours!

 

[bobby2175]

Was starting to think through some of my next repairs and PM. Are there any other weak points I should be considering? Remember, my goal is to keep running this truck for a long, long time.

I'm thinking I want to address the broken exhaust manifold bolt. In talking with my trusted shop (owner of which also has a Yukon), he recommends just changing out all of the bolts vs using the dorman clamp. What are your thoughts? Also, are these the right ARP bolts to use:

ARP 134-1102 ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Header Fasteners at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

We had discussed proactively changing out the torque converter a few posts back - any thoughts on that? I'm still on my original transmission with no issues right now.i also had Blackstone take a look at my trans fluid from last month and it actually looked pretty good with no identified issues. Do I even bother with this?

I typically drive long distances - 2 hours each way, so my goal is to not get stranded somewhere unprepared.

Anything else I should think about in 2024 with 185K miles now?

 

[Geotrash]

Also, are these the right ARP bolts to use:

ARP 134-1102 ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Header Fasteners at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Yup, those will work

We had discussed proactively changing out the torque converter a few posts back - any thoughts on that?

You're on borrowed time with that torque converter already. It would be my top priority to get it replaced. Might as well do the rear main seal and oil galley dog bone while you're in there.

 

[donjetman]

Was starting to think through some of my next repairs and PM. Are there any other weak points I should be considering? Remember, my goal is to keep running this truck for a long, long time.

I'm thinking I want to address the broken exhaust manifold bolt. In talking with my trusted shop (owner of which also has a Yukon), he recommends just changing out all of the bolts vs using the dorman clamp. What are your thoughts? Also, are these the right ARP bolts to use:

ARP 134-1102 ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Header Fasteners at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

We had discussed proactively changing out the torque converter a few posts back - any thoughts on that? I'm still on my original transmission with no issues right now.i also had Blackstone take a look at my trans fluid from last month and it actually looked pretty good with no identified issues. Do I even bother with this?

I typically drive long distances - 2 hours each way, so my goal is to not get stranded somewhere unprepared.

Anything else I should think about in 2024 with 185K miles now?

Those ARP bolts are correct.

6L80 TECHM pressure switch membranes (laminents) repair.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...p0842-p0872-p0877-update.145047/#post-1838408
Replace the torque converter, and while you're in there the rear main seal, etc.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...7-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/page-3#post-1293118
Front Suspension Refresh
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/front-end-refresh.145676/

 

[donjetman]

and oil galley dog bone while you're in there.

Also known as the oil galley "barbell".