Well crap...nicked aluminum heater line

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
mijohnst

mijohnst

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2019
Posts
250
Reaction score
275
There is always those aluminum ones from Gruven Parts for $75 each. They don't break down the road.

I have to agree. I don't like those Dorman replacements. I can't tell you how many times the stupid o-ring fell out and I'd have to go search for it.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
25,766
Reaction score
38,401
Location
Stockton, Ca.
One tube is hot

The other is cold

No warm air, correct?

Is the tube warm at the back of the vehicle? You can crawl under by the RR tire and feel. They run all the way back by the frame rail

Trying to determine flow vs. conducting heat from coolant passing nearby
in normal operation both would be hot, if one was cold then that would mean the heater core is plugged/clogged and the coolant could not flow in & out, same for the rear heater core which is where those lines go that is why there a "T" there. I guess theoretically one might get slightly cooler than the other once it has passed thru the heater core fins but it wouldn't be much.
 

BG1988

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Posts
2,954
Reaction score
1,346
I can pull an entire line off of a junker but I think it's going to be a nightmare to pull one out. :/ Isn't it one continuous piece from the front heater core to the back one?
you will need to weld (soldering)it but being aluminum good luck...

I mean they do solder A/C copper pipes can't see why you can't do it with Aluminum
 

Black Limited

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jan 5, 2020
Posts
27
Reaction score
15
I tried it anyway just because I was curious and it leaked. lol I'm glad I tried it though because I would have always wondered. I took it out and put in my backup plan with the piece I cut from one in the junkyard with rubber tubing and hose clamps. It seems to be working just fine and the tubing is snug. Here is a picture of that.

Now on to my next issue... I was testing the heat to make sure all works the back is not. The front works great but the back blows cool air. I let it run for about 30 minutes with the air blasting in the back on full heat but it never warmed up. I noticed that only one of the lines running back there is getting hot. The one that I repaired is warm, but not hot like the other one. I just bought this Tahoe and I don't know if it's wasn't working before I bought it. All tubes have coolant running through them so I'm wondering if the actuator or the controller in the back are bad... From one thing to the next. lol...

View attachment 238216
 

Black Limited

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jan 5, 2020
Posts
27
Reaction score
15
I did the same repair on my 05 Sub, cut both aluminum lines, one had a pin hole in it...………….

Cut out section to give me more flex, lower then you show in the picture, also double clamped for safety.

The black " T" plastic connector has a different angle going down.
 
OP
OP
mijohnst

mijohnst

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2019
Posts
250
Reaction score
275
I did the same repair on my 05 Sub, cut both aluminum lines, one had a pin hole in it...………….

Cut out section to give me more flex, lower then you show in the picture, also double clamped for safety.

The black " T" plastic connector has a different angle going down.

Hey, good idea. I think I'll go back and double camp mine too. It sure makes it easier getting those suckers in. lol
 

Forum statistics

Threads
131,802
Posts
1,857,285
Members
96,107
Latest member
Austin19
Top