I really don't think you are going to find a problem in the park brake area, again IMO.
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I am not saying not to look, I was going to say, make sure you look no matter what my guess is. Pics if can
I would set it for a light drag and see where it goes if you then park on a grade and see if will hold solidly in neutral. You may have to adjust to a sweet spot but it is what it is.
I have small disc that I can attach any kind of abrasive to and I use that in a drill so it makes kind of a swirl mark. And O'Reilly's sells the least expensive brake cleaner. I always buy several cans at a time. And my German Shorthaired Pointer is great for providing me household bath towels for the shop. For some reason she thinks every towel needs a tug of war. LOL!Yea, I was just not thinking you were going to find anything major. Glad it was still all together. Any time you pull down brakes like that, if you see a glaze or heat marks you can use sand paper and even better if you have something that would spin it, and clean up those surfaces. Make doubly sure that you use brake clean and very clean rags/towels to wipe clean several times to remove the little tiny bits of metal that is removed by the sandpaper. That stuff will imbed in the friction material and ruin them.
When I was running shops I had to tell several techs to make sure they clean those freshly turned rotors/drums with brake clean and clean rags. I don't even install new rotors without a swirl finish and a thorough cleaning. I also scuff the friction material, very very lightly, and again clean with brake clean. Scuffed/cleaned surfaces, IMO, seat better when you do the first road test.I have small disc that I can attach any kind of abrasive to and I use that in a drill so it makes kind of a swirl mark. And O'Reilly's sells the least expensive brake cleaner. I always buy several cans at a time. And my German Shorthaired Pointer is great for providing me household bath towels for the shop. For some reason she thinks every towel needs a tug of war. LOL!