What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[tsuintx]

Got goodies from The Retrofitsource and of course had to get to it right away.

I don’t quite get why these aftermarket companies can’t get their bulbs dialed in so that the LEDs are at 9 and 3 as I’m pretty sure that’s where they should be.

Anyway..., got them in and just slightly off from the 9/3 position and worked fine. Until it got dark and wanted go test them out. Then passenger side started to flicker and went off before I even got out of the driveway. Of course the passenger side which is the difficult one to access. Said screw it and decided to check stuff out tomorrow.

No idea what’s going on with it since I did double check all connections etc. and all was fine. Oh well... Tomorrow...

View attachment 268870

 

[Tiki]

Ready for some output pictures!

 

[STORMIN08]

the first drive i made, i had one bulb go out...the connection felt tight, but was actually 90* off. luckily it was driver side, but i did recheck the pass and have ZERO issues with the product.

 

[tsuintx]

the first drive i made, i had one bulb go out...the connection felt tight, but was actually 90* off. luckily it was driver side, but i did recheck the pass and have ZERO issues with the product.

Lucky you! Having the passenger side go out is about par for how things usually go with me. LOL!

 

[Tonyv__]

Changed oil, filter and air filter. Rotated tires and inspected the underbody while it was on the lift. Having a lift in the garage is one of the best things any serious owner can do, what a life changer.

I used Mobil1 0W-20 and a Napa Gold filter. This interval was 4,300 miles and the oil was black. This is the second change I’ve personally done and the second time the car has seen Mobil1 0W-20 EP. Mileage is 80,800. Yikes. Hoping to get 120k out of the car.

my garage isn’t tall enough for a lift. I barely squeeze past the garage door

 

[tsuintx]

Checked passenger side light and everything was fine. Still a no go.

Connector was tight on. Even tried turning the connector around and light didn’t come on at all.

Lights come on just fine, but right when you step on the brake to shift out of park, both flicker and passenger side goes out and doesn’t come on until you turn lights off and back on. But, when you put it in gear, passenger side goes out again. Put everything back and decided to continue the fight another day. Need to also swap them side to side to see if that makes a difference.

Might need to also contact Retrofitsource to see what they say. Might have as well spent 50-60 bucks on a cheapo set off Amazon if the stuff doesn’t work.

 

[Doubeleive]

Checked passenger side light and everything was fine. Still a no go.

Connector was tight on. Even tried turning the connector around and light didn’t come on at all.

Lights come on just fine, but right when you step on the brake to shift out of park, both flicker and passenger side goes out and doesn’t come on until you turn lights off and back on. But, when you put it in gear, passenger side goes out again. Put everything back and decided to continue the fight another day. Need to also swap them side to side to see if that makes a difference.

Might need to also contact Retrofitsource to see what they say. Might have as well spent 50-60 bucks on a cheapo set off Amazon if the stuff doesn’t work.

If you have a multi meter check the polarity on both sides of the truck, if you have one or both backwards that could maybe cause your issue, otherwise you are likely just getting low voltage and you could use a set of relays and wire direct to the battery and use the headlight positive as a trigger only, wire power direct to the battery and ground to frame and you will not have any issue anymore. LED's and HID"S like plenty of voltage, 12v is minimum power so direct to battery is the best way to go. hook your lights to the battery to test and I bet they work everytime.

 

[tsuintx]

If you have a multi meter check the polarity on both sides of the truck, if you have one or both backwards that could maybe cause your issue, otherwise you are likely just getting low voltage and you could use a set of relays and wire direct to the battery and use the headlight positive as a trigger only, wire power direct to the battery and ground to frame and you will not have any issue anymore. LED's and HID"S like plenty of voltage, 12v is minimum power so direct to battery is the best way to go. hook your lights to the battery to test and I bet they work everytime.

Definitely something I should do.

However, I would also expect these expensive and quite highly recommended Morimotos to work as advertized. That’s why I bought them and not cheapos.

But yeah, of course it could be something with the truck.

 

[Doubeleive]

Definitely something I should do.

However, I would also expect these expensive and quite highly recommended Morimotos to work as advertized. That’s why I bought them and not cheapos.

But yeah, of course it could be something with the truck.

aftermarket headlights almost always need extra power, I always recommend using relays direct to the battery it takes the load off of the factory harness and just works better, it eliminates troublesome voltage issue's.

 

[CMoore711]

I got the Morimoto 2 stroke 3.0 in 9005 for my high beams and have had zero issues. Plug and play.