What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[ThwopKing]

Lowering kit is on....but not finished yet.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Well driving home today and went to pass a semi truck. Dropped down to third rang it out to about 80 and went shift into OD/5th. Clutch pedal flopped to the floor. Pulled over and found the master cylinder rod that attaches to the pedal had fallen out of the pedal. Reached up to the hole where the rod fits into the pedal and noticed a nylon spacer in the hole. Apparently the PO put the spacer in there to make it shift with less pedal effort. However theres no way for the rod to clip into the pedal. Pulled the spacer out jammed everything back together and limped it home with nearly no clutch because now without the spacer the rod is to short to fully disengage the clutch.

Luckily I already bought and extended a rod because I wanted to lesson the pedal force required to shift. Installed it just now and I'm back to where it was before thank goodness. Gonna have the old rod extended even more than before probably 3/4" where the other one is only extended 3/8". Should make it super easy to shift and not have a dangerous situation happen again.

Left rod is the already extended one.

 

[Rocket Man]

I know they decided the rear ones weren't necessary and so they made the block-offs. But, I can't imagine them deleting the front ones.

That crossover through the TB is some BS. You know how they fixed it in the newer gens? They simply angled the TB a hair so any moisture that may be around the throttle blade won't collect on the blade where it could freeze.

I know guys that are boosted or running high HP like to go back to the 4 corner steam pipes because there’s supposedly heat buildup on #4 & #8 under duress. But I deleted the TB part of mine and am running the 2 corner one.

edit: #7 &#8, the rear cylinders duh

 

[05Single]

I did some cutting and patching of a cold air intake elbow I got at the junkyard. It won't win any beauty contests, but it sure beats the octopus that it will replace.View attachment 242024 View attachment 242023 View attachment 242025

Lol I was about to attempt the same thing. Then I found my airaid mit tube locally for $40 so I grabbed that

 

[iamdub]

I know guys that are boosted or running high HP like to go back to the 4 corner steam pipes because there’s supposedly heat buildup on #4 & #8 under duress. But I deleted the TB part of mine and am running the 2 corner one.

Right on. For this reason, I wanted to get the four corner one. I'll still be mostly stock but it certainly wouldn't hurt to have it.

 

[mattbta]

Water pump, thermostat and fan clutch in. I have heat now!

Now to figure out why I get a pop from the front left area when turning left only when it's damp or raining. Quiet as a mouse when not wet.

 

[Doubeleive]

I know guys that are boosted or running high HP like to go back to the 4 corner steam pipes because there’s supposedly heat buildup on #4 & #8 under duress. But I deleted the TB part of mine and am running the 2 corner one.

ya that's what I am going to do with hers just run the hose from the radiator to the pipe and bypass the TB

Water pump, thermostat and fan clutch in. I have heat now!

Now to figure out why I get a pop from the front left area when turning left only when it's damp or raining. Quiet as a mouse when not wet.

usually that is the sway bar bushings, try greasing them I think what happens is the grease gets thin and then when water gets in water is a terrible lubricant so it makes it pop instead of moving smoothly.

 

[mattbta]

usually that is the sway bar bushings, try greasing them I think what happens is the grease gets thin and then when water gets in water is a terrible lubricant so it makes it pop instead of moving smoothly.

Thanks. That is what I am going to try, just have to put my grease gun back together and lube the whole front end.. if that doesn't work, put new non poly end links in as I have the energy suspension ones.

 

[Rocket Man]

Thanks. That is what I am going to try, just have to put my grease gun back together and lube the whole front end.. if that doesn't work, put new non poly end links in as I have the energy suspension ones.

I though they only sell poly ones? Also, you might want to buy their greasable sway bar bushings since there’s no way to grease the OEM ones without taking them apart.

 

[mattbta]

I have the full energy suspension poly setup for the front: sway bars, end links, control arms. Will grease everything. Was considering swapping to maybe some Delco end links that aren't poly if the grease doesn't work. Ball joints and arms are only 2 year old Moogs.