What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Fless

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You’ll probably be OK with just acetone or isopropyl alcohol. MEK is pretty much just PVC cleaner. When you apply the liquid to the powder, you may see what looks like a little puff of smoke. It’s amazing how fast it hardens. After it hardens, you can sand or file it. If you’ve never used it before, it never hurts to practice on another piece of plastic first. Just remember to use the correct powder, one is for plastic and the other is for metal. Good luck and post some before and after pics.

Ok, done. Cleaned with the acetone and did a few small applications to build it up some. Seems pretty rock solid, so much more than epoxy. I ran the screw in to see if there was any flexing but there wasn't. Once the screw was in a little ways I noticed a small crack in the screw tower so I fixed that.

The Q-Bond is a bit pricey at $30 but I didn't use very much of the black powder so I have plenty left for other projects.

The before pic was in a prior post with two pieces shown. Here's the after. Not pretty but it doesn't have to be. Thanks for the recommendation!

Bezel3_resized.jpg

Bezel4_resized.jpg
 

iamdub

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Probably going to try the Q-Bond. I'll clean it with acetone or MEK beforehand. The epoxy stuck pretty good but not good enough. I had to peel it off of the parts when I removed it, but it came off clean.

What epoxy peeled off? I've never used Q-Bond or the other one recently and often mentioned here. But I've used a lot of JB-Weld Plastic Epoxy (the black one) and it's never failed my. I've reattached broken headlight tabs on a couple vehicles with it. Considering the weight of a headlight, especially one with a motorized adjuster assembly inside it, I'd say it'd more than suffice for you. I know for a fact that it adheres to the type of plastic you're using. In addition to chemically cleaning it, I scrape the plastic pieces with a razor to ensure it has more tooth for a mechanical bond.
 

Fless

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What epoxy peeled off? I've never used Q-Bond or the other one recently and often mentioned here. But I've used a lot of JB-Weld Plastic Epoxy (the black one) and it's never failed my. I've reattached broken headlight tabs on a couple vehicles with it. Considering the weight of a headlight, especially one with a motorized adjuster assembly inside it, I'd say it'd more than suffice for you. I know for a fact that it adheres to the type of plastic you're using. In addition to chemically cleaning it, I scrape the plastic pieces with a razor to ensure it has more tooth for a mechanical bond.

It was the one below. I probably should have used a plastic welder type, I suppose. It hardened and stuck but didn't really do a good job of bonding the joints together.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-PermaPoxy-General-Purpose-Crystal/dp/B077S1ZM57
 

Danny3737

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I’m glad it worked for you. I know it’s not cheap, but it makes a solid bond. I’m sure you could find it cheaper online. I’ve used it on cars and a lot of stuff around the house. I really like how fast it cures, there’s basically no waiting. You can file, sand, and drill it. I’ve even run a small tap through it.



Ok, done. Cleaned with the acetone and did a few small applications to build it up some. Seems pretty rock solid, so much more than epoxy. I ran the screw in to see if there was any flexing but there wasn't. Once the screw was in a little ways I noticed a small crack in the screw tower so I fixed that.

The Q-Bond is a bit pricey at $30 but I didn't use very much of the black powder so I have plenty left for other projects.

The before pic was in a prior post with two pieces shown. Here's the after. Not pretty but it doesn't have to be. Thanks for the recommendation!

View attachment 259645

View attachment 259646
 

Rocket Man

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I’m glad it worked for you. I know it’s not cheap, but it makes a solid bond. I’m sure you could find it cheaper online. I’ve used it on cars and a lot of stuff around the house. I really like how fast it cures, there’s basically no waiting. You can file, sand, and drill it. I’ve even run a small tap through it.
I ordered some on Amazon that might be a smaller size but it was $11.89. I’m going to try it to bond a cover over the spare tire access hole on my 08 Silverado into the step pad. I need it to be secure so when the time comes that I drag the bumper coming out of a driveway it stays on. The stupid covers that snap into the original piece always fall off and end up left in the road. Hope it works. I’ll bond it from the back.

18B24DCE-0163-4DE7-BCE8-AAC015EF2881.jpeg EDD960FD-1875-45BC-9105-2875187DC903.jpeg 0DC275CC-C13D-4ADC-BFA0-358A20BA2BCE.jpeg
 

NoReverseYukon

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I did some destructive testing/experimenting today. After watching how much work it takes to do a 2003 & later steering wheel swap onto a pre-2003 by removing the upper portion of the steering column :
,I thought I'd see if I could just press out that steel insert. First I tried the removal on my old sacrificial lamb wheel. As you can see that didn't work so well.IMG_20201009_171423810.jpg
I found a socket to give better backing support and the insert from the new wheel came out better.IMG_20201009_171435958_HDR.jpg
These are both inserts, with the 2003+ on the left.IMG_20201009_171011211.jpg The new one has a slightly smaller toothed OD, but with the amount of metal removed from the wheel during removal, I might be able to get the old one to fit in the new wheel. Might have to enlarge the opening slightly and braze it into correct position.

This will be a time-available project, but if/when I get it finished I will report back, probably in a dedicated thread.
 

MannyB

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Gents,

I wanted to do a full Led swap on the front and rear exterior.

03 Denali

9005 9006 for hi/lows.

No idea what the part #s are for the 3 bulbs in the drl/turn blinker or the fogs?

880 bulbs for the rear reverse bulb?
 

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