What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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TheAutumnWind

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Headlight low 9006
Headlight high 9005
(Leds are usually designed to fit both)
Fog light 880
Turn signal 3157
DRL 4114LL
Corner marker bulb 194
Brake light 3157
Rear turn signal 3157 or 3156
Reverse 3157 or 3156

good source I’ve used for years, always accurate. But by now I have our body style lights memorized. Same exact lights are used for tahoe, Silverado , Sierra , all the travel . https://www.modifiedlife.com/2003-gmc-yukon-headlight-light-bulb-sizes/
different headlamps for escalade though. They got HIDs in 03 iirc. D1Rs.
 

TheAutumnWind

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New lease on life 2006 gmc yukon xl .. lights are brighter radio sounds better and everything 12v just works better after cleaning grounds . Yes there was still paint between grounds .. you can see it on top one it fixed alot of mystery electric issues .02de005a42399735ebbf6cbae9932596.jpg3e241fc8183f93c09d6a6a0181883690.jpg42ba50f284c93516f14ac9783a47cb12.jpg

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one of the first thing I do with all my vehicles is look to improve Grounds. Good call.
 

Denaliz

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When I bought my Mechman alternator the instructions said to wire it up that way but I mostly ignored that until I started having battery issue's but my batteries were both bad also when I replaced them I wired it up so both grounds are on the RVC seems to work better but no telling if it was just the batteries or not.


Mechmans a great company. I went that route as well. What helped my voltage issues was a big 3 wiring upgrade, mechman alt, XS Power battery with a custom top for all my -/+ cable needs. I have no voltage issues running all my equipment at full tilt. My 3 amps are A/B Class and take more juice. I’ve had my share of headaches figuring everything out I promise .

The 1/0 runs go into a distributor block then feed into my amps. Just sharing if it helps anyone else.

135A6443-FC90-4C51-BFB0-6605B5277027.jpeg 9D2BE013-5631-4DB3-8F61-A2DE3BD19138.jpeg FB9CBF2B-313B-4F07-91E4-BF8090B8E684.jpeg C5F0940A-6CBC-4430-9804-E0A7618235CF.jpeg
 

Doubeleive

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nice, but none of the shops around here are balling like that and I would guess most people are not looking to drop another 10k on audio and wiring. I just wanted a little extra juice to feed my subs and a extra battery so I am less likely to be left walking home. certainly is nice when you have access to places that do custom work like that and have the extra money :waytogo:
 

Woodblocker55

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one of the first thing I do with all my vehicles is look to improve Grounds. Good call.
Yes but the HO2 bank1 sensor1 and driver side impact sensor code came back . But fixing the ground got rig of 10 others other mystery codes [emoji108][emoji106][emoji41][emoji848] I would never thought surface under that connection would be that bad.

I'm going try some black fluid film for this winter .. ya rust belt is brutal..[emoji849] we can only slow it down .. I need start buying rigs from down south fluid film every year. Minnesota so nasty on salt yes it gets so cold salt don't work so out comes the calcium chloride.. nasty stuff eats rigs up.

Last point about a better ground my non lux amp has alot more bass now it must of been running on about 9-10 volts lol

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PG01

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Every new clockspring I've seen is shipped with a locking tab at the center point, assuming they will be installed with the steering wheel and tires centered. They don't "unwind" by themselves, at least not much. You can take a used one and find the center by *gently* turning it from end to end, being careful to not put much pressure when you get to either end. Count the turns from end to end, divide by 2, and from one end move it back that many turns. That's the center.

Some of them are marked with the full turn count. The one in the graphic has 5 turns from end to end, centered would be 2.5 turns from either end.

View attachment 260190
But if it is over turned it’s toast.
 

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