What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iddqd

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Did antenna delete the other weekend.

The best approach would be to buy a brand new part from Escalade ESV GM #15287179 and call it a day. The problem is that the part has long been discontinued. There's some knuckle head on fleeBay that sells those USED for $90-$100. Call me an old fart and greedy, but I think it's a travesty to pay $100 for a piece of degraded and faded out plastic WITH BROKEN TABS!!!
So, I went to Home Depot, bought JB weld for plastic BLACK and modified mine. One couldn't tell the difference from 10 feet distance!

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iddqd

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Replaced all 4 control arms last weekend. Since I am an allergic to aftermarket for the most part, went with GM OEM. Mine old ones had 180K miles on them and were factory parts, so if the new ones make another 180K, my investment will be justified. I do grease all zerk fittings with every oil change, which is every 3500 miles, so that might contribute to this longevity.
The job took me all evening Saturday and most of Sunday. The most annoying part is to disconnect the lower ball joints. Don't bother with cheap Chinsy ball joint separators from eBay/Amazon/part store - they won't fit. The lower ball joint is too bigand the knuckle is too massive. In all videos I watched guys just hit the knuckle with a hammer and it worked, but it didn't work for me. Maybe if you have the car on a lift and have room to hit it hard, it would work, but I had my car on jack stands and i was afraid it falls on my head. I had to modify a Chinese separator, cut a part of ball joint (the stem was too long) and then hit it with the hammer to disconnect them. Lower ones are the most difficult, took me about 30 mins for each to disconnect. The Chinese tool bent, but I've got it done.
GM recommends using Kent Moore J-43631, which is about $250. If I knew all the hassle, I'd have bought it. But now I'm good for at least 180K miles.

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Tonyrodz

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Did antenna delete the other weekend.

The best approach would be to buy a brand new part from Escalade ESV GM #15287179 and call it a day. The problem is that the part has long been discontinued. There's some knuckle head on fleeBay that sells those USED for $90-$100. Call me an old fart and greedy, but I think it's a travesty to pay $100 for a piece of degraded and faded out plastic WITH BROKEN TABS!!!
So, I went to Home Depot, bought JB weld for plastic BLACK and modified mine. One couldn't tell the difference from 10 feet distance!

View attachment 273617 View attachment 273618 View attachment 273619
$100 for that piece of plastic is just being greedy. I've bought them for $10-$20 each.
 

Rocket Man

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Did antenna delete the other weekend.

The best approach would be to buy a brand new part from Escalade ESV GM #15287179 and call it a day. The problem is that the part has long been discontinued. There's some knuckle head on fleeBay that sells those USED for $90-$100. Call me an old fart and greedy, but I think it's a travesty to pay $100 for a piece of degraded and faded out plastic WITH BROKEN TABS!!!
So, I went to Home Depot, bought JB weld for plastic BLACK and modified mine. One couldn't tell the difference from 10 feet distance!

View attachment 273617 View attachment 273618 View attachment 273619

Looks good from my house!

Replaced all 4 control arms last weekend. Since I am an allergic to aftermarket for the most part, went with GM OEM. Mine old ones had 180K miles on them and were factory parts, so if the new ones make another 180K, my investment will be justified. I do grease all zerk fittings with every oil change, which is every 3500 miles, so that might contribute to this longevity.
The job took me all evening Saturday and most of Sunday. The most annoying part is to disconnect the lower ball joints. Don't bother with cheap Chinsy ball joint separators from eBay/Amazon/part store - they won't fit. The lower ball joint is too bigand the knuckle is too massive. In all videos I watched guys just hit the knuckle with a hammer and it worked, but it didn't work for me. Maybe if you have the car on a lift and have room to hit it hard, it would work, but I had my car on jack stands and i was afraid it falls on my head. I had to modify a Chinese separator, cut a part of ball joint (the stem was too long) and then hit it with the hammer to disconnect them. Lower ones are the most difficult, took me about 30 mins for each to disconnect. The Chinese tool bent, but I've got it done.
GM recommends using Kent Moore J-43631, which is about $250. If I knew all the hassle, I'd have bought it. But now I'm good for at least 180K miles.

View attachment 273620 View attachment 273621 View attachment 273622 View attachment 273623

That’s why I had my lowers done by a shop. Good job!
$100 for that piece of plastic is just being greedy. I've bought them for $10-$20 each.

Not since TYF made them popular. Can’t find them anymore. The power of the forum!:cool:
 

iddqd

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I had a spare that I gave to a member. They're nice but alot of times your reception suffers.

I honestly never used radio in my last 2 cars :)

But my plan is to modify a cellular antenna on top of the roof for this purpose. I can't remove it without leaving a hole in the roof, so why not use it as an FM antenna.
 

Tonyrodz

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I honestly never used radio in my last 2 cars :)

But my plan is to modify a cellular antenna on top of the roof for this purpose. I can't remove it without leaving a hole in the roof, so why not use it as an FM antenna.
That would work out great--if it works. I stream my music most of the time, but sometimes I like to tune in to local stations.
 

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