Awesome. What do the floor pans look like? Seems to be the only issue with ones around here, probably from windshield leaks since they don’t salt the roads here.alright heres the walk around
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Awesome. What do the floor pans look like? Seems to be the only issue with ones around here, probably from windshield leaks since they don’t salt the roads here.alright heres the walk around
That’s what I’ll do one day. My rear ds didn’t break off, and I replaced the rest with ARP. But I do have 2 clamps on.When I had that problem, I bit the bullet, went to my buddy's shop, we removed the exhaust manifold, welded a nut to the piece of a bolt stuck in the heads with a MIG welder and removed it. Then I installed ARP studs and hope I won't have to do this gymnastics ever again on this truck.
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When I did mine, I paid a neighbor, who paints and does auto body to do those, and also 2 mirror caps. I fully prepped the pieces first, and I think he only charged me $160.. however, it was a little difficult to match my paint color, as there are 3 variations on the factory “Redfire Metallic” color. He did a test spray for all 3 and we decided which was a match.Bought some duplicolor Dark Spiral Gray Metallic and clear rattle cans to attempt color matching the end caps on my newly acquired Esky roof rack. If it looks horrible, I suppose I can try and find a small shop to paint it. Not sure how much that'd set me back or if they'd even do such a small job?
Go to www.automotivetouchup.com, find your color, and order a spray can of it mixed to match. And don’t forget a can of clear coat.Bought some duplicolor Dark Spiral Gray Metallic and clear rattle cans to attempt color matching the end caps on my newly acquired Esky roof rack. If it looks horrible, I suppose I can try and find a small shop to paint it. Not sure how much that'd set me back or if they'd even do such a small job?
Do you have matched mirror covers? I actually bought mirrors with that color covers, and my Hoe is blue.Bought some duplicolor Dark Spiral Gray Metallic and clear rattle cans to attempt color matching the end caps on my newly acquired Esky roof rack. If it looks horrible, I suppose I can try and find a small shop to paint it. Not sure how much that'd set me back or if they'd even do such a small job?
nothing is seized, the driveline shop here in town said the (older) aluminum drivelines can get stressed and make that ticking sound and it also why GM started making the drivelines larger size, the one on my Silverado is a big fat cigar. He also said they fill the inside with Styrofoam or something now, seems like a reasonable explanation it shifts and drive fine, no vibration, just annoying noise. If I am lucky the junkyard might have a used one for $100 the driveline shop said they can make me a new one for $500. Haven't priced out a new one yet.Isn't that seized U-joint making noise that resonates in the driveshaft?
I’m pretty sure I heard Morse code for “PUNCH IT”nothing is seized, the driveline shop here in town said the (older) aluminum drivelines can get stressed and make that ticking sound and it also why GM started making the drivelines larger size, the one on my Silverado is a big fat cigar. He also said they fill the inside with Styrofoam or something now, seems like a reasonable explanation it shifts and drive fine, no vibration, just annoying noise. If I am lucky the junkyard might have a used one for $100 the driveline shop said they can make me a new one for $500. Haven't priced out a new one yet.
lol, It seems to do it mostly under a load in the video I had her put in reverse giving it gas and holding the brakes a bit, without a load there is no noiseI’m pretty sure I heard Morse code for “PUNCH IT”
lol, It seems to do it mostly under a load in the video I had her put in reverse giving it gas and holding the brakes a bit, without a load there is no noise
Finally replaced the brake light switch today. Been needing that for a while. I have had intermittent issues with the CHMSL not functioning.
Then I had another driver tell me about a week ago that my brake lights weren’t working!
After fiddling with it, I verified it was indeed working, but I really didn’t have any confidence, and was always checking and verifying the brake lights were actually working.
I had ordered what I thought was the correct part:
But, of course as soon as I looked on the brake pedal, discovered that’s the [parking brake] switch..
No worries.. I ordered the correct part, which will be here in a couple days, OEM AC Delco... for now, I’ll just take this one apart and clean up the contacts...
That bottom one is really corroded and you can see the metal is questionable....
Well, broke out the brake cleaner, and a wire brush, cleaned those contacts up, reassembled, and wedged back in place..
Did I mention that getting to this thing is a back breaker...? Things under the dash are never fun IMHO, but this is particularly painful. Anyway, this little clip is a mf’er:
After reinstalling —minus that clip— I tested the brakes.... nothing.. I had questionable lighting before, now I’ve got nothing. [emoji23][emoji1787]
After checking all fuses, and checking for continuity ahead of the switch, I determined the contacts must have been too far gone, and when I cleaned them up, I must have removed the tiny remaining metal that was actually working..
So, headed to O’reilly for a Standard replacement. All is well..
Now i have an Genuine AC Delco part on the way, as a backup. I’m not likely to break my back again unless it’s necessary..!
But the best part..?
Box 1 of 2 showed up today: