What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Sam Harris

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Washed, and finally waxed her today. Getting ready for the winter that appears to be missing this year. Detailed and good to go. Oh, and since I had my trans filter / drain / fill done, I now have a fxcking leak. :mad:
No idea why the pics didn’t post..
 

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Walchit

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So question, I bought a bunch of front end parts to rebuild the 05, got all the parts needed a shop quoted me $1300 labor (11 hours) which seems excessive to me
so I want to try and tackle at least a portion of it
I have
upper & lower control arms w/ball joints-new
steering gear box with arm already attached it's refurb-used vgc
control arm/pitman arm-new
inner & outer tie rods-new
so I want to try and tackle the lower control arms first, given there is the torsion bar, how hard is it to do?
can I just jack it up and drop the lower control arms and swap them out with out difficulty? or is the torsion bar a b*itch? any tricks?
Pretty sure you have to take the keys off first, get under there with some pb blaster and a little sledgehammer. I just watched a ton of YouTube videos on leveling kits and control arm installation. If you don't have an air hammer, you will probably need some good sawzall blades to get the upper control arms out, and then the alignment pins might fall out too. I took one to the hardware store and got stainless nuts and bolts to replace them. GM could order the correct pins, but the parts store ones didnt work, they had too much of the "grip" area on them.
I'm not a mechanic by any means, and I got mine done. It took me closer to 11 weeks than 11 hours though, lol
 

Rocket Man

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Washed, and finally waxed her today. Getting ready for the winter that appears to be missing this year. Detailed and good to go. Oh, and since I had my trans filter / drain / fill done, I now have a fxcking leak. :mad:
With the lube locker gasket? Probably just need to re-torque the pan bolts. Hopefully they didn’t over torque them the first time. They’re probably loose, the torque value is pretty low.
 

Walchit

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My abs light came on again Friday, but shut back off by the time I got home, been working on the Ford Five Hundred now, so I haven't hooked the scanner up, but I imagine it was the EBCM motor/relay code again. I'm really not looking forward to pulling that out. Especially if soldering it doesn't work, because it looks like they are a few hundred bucks, and I need ABS.
 

Doubeleive

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Pretty sure you have to take the keys off first, get under there with some pb blaster and a little sledgehammer. I just watched a ton of YouTube videos on leveling kits and control arm installation. If you don't have an air hammer, you will probably need some good sawzall blades to get the upper control arms out, and then the alignment pins might fall out too. I took one to the hardware store and got stainless nuts and bolts to replace them. GM could order the correct pins, but the parts store ones didnt work, they had too much of the "grip" area on them.
I'm not a mechanic by any means, and I got mine done. It took me closer to 11 weeks than 11 hours though, lol
thanks for the info, shouldn't need a sawzall or anything like that no rust here, all we get is spider webs, you might see some very light surface rust on unpainted surfaces after 15 years but that's about it
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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My abs light came on again Friday, but shut back off by the time I got home, been working on the Ford Five Hundred now, so I haven't hooked the scanner up, but I imagine it was the EBCM motor/relay code again. I'm really not looking forward to pulling that out. Especially if soldering it doesn't work, because it looks like they are a few hundred bucks, and I need ABS.
you can swap in a already repaired one or used one as long as the part number matches, doesn't require any programming as long as the part number is a exact match.
 

Walchit

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you can swap in a already repaired one or used one as long as the part number matches, doesn't require any programming as long as the part number is a exact match.
Removing the old one is gonna be the worst part, We get surface rust in Kansas in about 15 minutes, lol. It seems like soldering them works, and I'm decent with the soldering iron. I made this for growing peppers, but it didn't turn out as bright as I would have liked, so it's over my workbench now. I used RGBW LEDs and there were tiny contact points to solder, it was a lot of work, but I put knobs to control each color of led. Red, blue, green, cool white, and warm white.
 

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Doubeleive

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Removing the old one is gonna be the worst part, We get surface rust in Kansas in about 15 minutes, lol. It seems like soldering them works, and I'm decent with the soldering iron. I made this for growing peppers, but it didn't turn out as bright as I would have liked, so it's over my workbench now. I used RGBW LEDs and there were tiny contact points to solder, it was a lot of work, but I put knobs to control each color of led. Red, blue, green, cool white, and warm white.
Ya those little hex head bolts can get stripped pretty easy, then you have no choice but to cut it out, I tried a few at the junkyard and about 30% of the time they would get stripped
 

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