What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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MassHoe04

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This panhard bar is the only one I’m aware of (thank you @Rocket Man), that will clear the diff cover with a girdle. The factory bar won’t clear it.

And by the way, I acquired 2 more quarts (just in case) of severe duty 75-90 Amsoil, and topped it off this evening. She took an estimated 3.6-3.7 quarts!! Mark, do you remember what your diff takes..? I’m shocked I had to add that much.!

ETA: Next order of business is to fix that damn driver side lean. Couldn’t really see it from the pic, but while she was up on the jackstands it was making me crazy seeing that sag..! Have to measure, and get a lift block for the coil on the driver side ASAP..!
Nice garage!
 

MassHoe04

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That would probably work but I wouldn’t use that on paint, even under the hood because you’d never be able to replace the lights when they fail without pulling the paint off. And even led lights might eventually fail. I’d rather have a few small screws instead. That’s my thoughts anyway and if I put strip lights under my hood again that’s what I’ll do.
I had a 12" piece of pine board to cover the back side of our stove that stuck up above the counter to trim it out. I used GE silicone sealer for doors and windows. Twenty years on there holding wood to sheet metal. I had to pry it off with a pry bar. The silicone stayed put and took some of the wood with it! No getting that off!

Silicone would work, but probably going to make replacing the lights really hard if that time comes for you.

How about silicone or super glue to hold strong magnets to the lights and let the magnets hold onto the hood? You would want strong enough magnets to keep things secure hitting bumps, but that might be an option.

Or, you can just screw them in as previously suggested.
 

Rocket Man

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I had a 12" piece of pine board to cover the back side of our stove that stuck up above the counter to trim it out. I used GE silicone sealer for doors and windows. Twenty years on there holding wood to sheet metal. I had to pry it off with a pry bar. The silicone stayed put and took some of the wood with it! No getting that off!

Silicone would work, but probably going to make replacing the lights really hard if that time comes for you.

How about silicone or super glue to hold strong magnets to the lights and let the magnets hold onto the hood? You would want strong enough magnets to keep things secure hitting bumps, but that might be an option.

Or, you can just screw them in as previously suggested.
That was one of the methods I used after the high bond tape failed. They started falling off even after I bedded the strips in silicone after cleaning everything with alcohol. I think it’s the force of the hood slamming down over and over. The ones on the bottoms of my doors stayed on with silicone, they’re still on. They’re hooked to the interior lights so when I open a door they’re like puddle lights on steroids.
 

Alex_M

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The heat of the engine and repeated heat cycling over time is also a big contributor. Under the hood I doubt even super glue or an epoxy would even be a permanent solution. Mechanical fastener is the only way I'd go.
 

S33k3r

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Oh believe me, the pry bar has been used.! It’s just a little at a time I guess. I’ll get it wrapped up soon. Missing driving Lucy, and now that I’ll have the girdle, I’ll feel a lot more comfortable doing some more eh.. spirited driving.
Lucy moved the football again? :cool:
 

S33k3r

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Went out wheeling with the wife, little, and old man today. The family took the Tahoe and the old man took his jeep. Wet conditions, had a really good time. Did end up popping a CV and my dad had to pull me up the last hill, but that CV has been making noise for 30k miles so it doesn't owe me anything. Was able to finish the trail and drive home 2wd, and pulled out the broken shaft leaving the stub installed in the hub so my wife can continue driving the Tahoe until I can get the rear end swapped in her Cherokee.

The Tahoe is back on 33s right now until I can go thru with the SAS (gathering parts). Looking forward to getting it back on 35s with the alloy wheels. The Jeep is on 31s and will be getting the 33s currently on the Tahoe soon as some wheels are found, and going back to factory style fender flares.

Hopefully I'll have some more pictures/videos of Tahoe action from my dad in the next day or two, but here's what I have now. What a blast.

One video of the Jeep

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The hill where my CV gave up the ghost.

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What size lift are you running to clear 33s / 35s? I was told I needed a 4" lift on my truck; I want to do a 2" body lift, but the shop I consulted said he doesn't know anyone doing body lifts any more. The body lift, for me, is to clear an Allison.
 

S33k3r

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Be aware those strip lights will eventually fall off from shutting the hood if they aren’t mechanically fastened. I did everything possible to mine to stop it but i eventually removed them because of that. If I do it again it will be with some that are screwed on. I like that hood blanket but I bought a new OEM one a couple years ago.
Where did you get the hood blanket?
 

S33k3r

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Replaced the power door lock in my driver's side passenger door. The plastic of the module doing the open/close broke in 3 pieces, inside the door! I replaced the mirror on my daughter's Suburban; chromatically, it was coppery on the surface and hard to use. It also would only fold in or fold out -- no power adjustment... Turns out it's the dam master switch.

My mechanic discovered rodent evidence in my wife's suburban. And we are fairly sure we have a bad wire, somewhere -- he has tested every thing else. But he can't find it. I'm taking it to a wiring specialist the week of 12/19 -- please wish me luck.
 

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