What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[ScottyBoy]

Bumper is wrong, and I still haven’t found a salvage one that’s any kind of quality, but the fenders were $125ish each, and the hood was $250. The lights I got for $50 out of salvage too. The body lift wasn’t too expensive, I forgot the kit, but it’s for a Silverado, you just have to buy a few longer bolts instead of the shorter ones it used for the bed.

Grill I bought new, ~$125. Paint I did myself from AutomotiveTouchup.com. I think by the end it’ll be close to $1k in parts.

Thanks, I really like the look too, really added some mean to that soft front.

Any chance that's a "ZONE" brand body lift? I actually bought a Zone 1.5" body lift nearly 3 years ago and I have never even opened the box yet. I ordered one for a 99-02 Silverado based on other forum members experience, and from what I have been reading about it over on GMFS forums. My original plan was to install the body lift but leave the bumper height as-is, because I'm planning to install a HD bumper cap and a HD grill

 

[Electrician]

Here's my latest. $10

 

[Rocket Man]

So I was driving my truck today and the CEL came on. I read the code and reset it. Then later it came on again with the same code, Knock Sensor circuit Bank 2. But I literally JUST had this engine installed. Could the installer have maybe over tightened one of the sensors making it too sensitive? Or could it possibly be reading some knock as the engine is being broken in? I don't even have 200 miles on this engine yet. It's a crate engine, NOT a used engine. I had him re-use my knock sensors because I just installed these a little over 3 years ago.

Shouldn’t be hearing a knock while the engine is being broken in, probably a bad sensor. Hindsight sucks, bet you wish you didn’t reuse those. Make sure to use OEM knock sensors too. Do you know if he used a new harness and did the RTV dams around them? Looks like the intake manifold needs to come off, dammit.

 

[blueinkd]

Shouldn’t be hearing a knock while the engine is being broken in, probably a bad sensor. Hindsight sucks, bet you wish you didn’t reuse those. Make sure to use OEM knock sensors too. Do you know if he used a new harness and did the RTV dams around them? Looks like the intake manifold needs to come off, dammit.

I learned this lesson the hard way. Went with Delphi knock sensors and CEL came on. I went back with ACD units and problem solved. Sucks job is not easy.

 

[Electrician]

I learned this lesson the hard way. Went with Delphi knock sensors and CEL came on. I went back with ACD units and problem solved. Sucks job is not easy.

Yeah... I'd say replacing knock sensors isn't something you'd wanna do on the reg

 

[Keviebear86]

I received the replacement front and rear bumpers (going to be paint matched) and I got my HD hood. The drawback to this is my son's lovely mother decided to hit me with the dreaded child support hike. So getting them painted and installed is going to have to wait a while. Gotta make sure the regular expenses get done. Hoping to have the parts painted and installed by summer. Other than that I have to order a new driver door latch, the sensors have stopped working and the lights don't turn on anymore. I also am going to bite the bullet and replace the AC lines that run to the rear evaporator so the rear AC can work correctly, currently the lines are capped. Last thing that will most likely come before the paint work is the Mechman alternator and XS Power battery. This is going to be an expensive year for the Tahoe. Good thing my better half loves it like I do.

 

[Rocket Man]

I received the replacement front and rear bumpers (going to be paint matched) and I got my HD hood. The drawback to this is my son's lovely mother decided to hit me with the dreaded child support hike. So getting them painted and installed is going to have to wait a while. Gotta make sure the regular expenses get done. Hoping to have the parts painted and installed by summer. Other than that I have to order a new driver door latch, the sensors have stopped working and the lights don't turn on anymore. I also am going to bite the bullet and replace the AC lines that run to the rear evaporator so the rear AC can work correctly, currently the lines are capped. Last thing that will most likely come before the paint work is the Mechman alternator and XS Power battery. This is going to be an expensive year for the Tahoe. Good thing my better half loves it like I do.

I bought a flexible rear line set from Auto Cooling Solutions on Amazon. I was very happy with it and is the only viable solution I saw to replace those lines without disassembling half the truck in order to get hard lines in. I cut the old lines in pieces to remove them and ran these in the sane location using the factory clamps. It’s a fairly easy job however plan on replacing the rear evaporator and expansion valve since the hose fittings that are connected under the rear of the truck won’t come loose so you can’t connect the new hoses up. It’s a bad location to put those connections due to the road crap sloshing up around them, they tend to weld themselves together.

 

[Sam Harris]

I bought a flexible rear line set from Auto Cooling Solutions on Amazon. I was very happy with it and is the only viable solution I saw to replace those lines without disassembling half the truck in order to get hard lines in. I cut the old lines in pieces to remove them and ran these in the sane location using the factory clamps. It’s a fairly easy job however plan on replacing the rear evaporator and expansion valve since the hose fittings that are connected under the rear of the truck won’t come loose so you can’t connect the new hoses up. It’s a bad location to put those connections due to the road crap sloshing up around them, they tend to weld themselves together.

Yeah, I had a hellova time just getting one bolt off the rear “aux” hvac, that goes through the floor. I had dismantled mine from the interior, and too many broken parts, so just bought the whole clamshell for like $100.. but that one bolt.. I mean, mine isn’t even in the rust belt, but that was a mawf’k to get out..!!! Now I just need to put the replacement in..

 

[Keviebear86]

I bought a flexible rear line set from Auto Cooling Solutions on Amazon. I was very happy with it and is the only viable solution I saw to replace those lines without disassembling half the truck in order to get hard lines in. I cut the old lines in pieces to remove them and ran these in the sane location using the factory clamps. It’s a fairly easy job however plan on replacing the rear evaporator and expansion valve since the hose fittings that are connected under the rear of the truck won’t come loose so you can’t connect the new hoses up. It’s a bad location to put those connections due to the road crap sloshing up around them, they tend to weld themselves together.

That is the same kit I was looking at. Glad to hear its widely used. The repair shop I work at has an account with them so I can hopefully save a few cents. I figure being in central Illinois I'll have quite the job ahead of me to get the rear evap core replaced, but I think I'll deal with it as it happens.

 

[nonickatall]

Disassembled wheel bearing hub and shocked about the condition and exchanged leaking power steering pressure hose, including exchange of servooil.