Not only that but the sign says it's a limousine service too so you could get a snowplow limo ride.Not mine, but I saw this today:
View attachment 73905 View attachment 73906
A Caddy plow vehicle....
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Not only that but the sign says it's a limousine service too so you could get a snowplow limo ride.Not mine, but I saw this today:
View attachment 73905 View attachment 73906
A Caddy plow vehicle....
I have switchbacks in my turn signals also but never heard of non-polarized LED's . I used regular ones in my park lights. Check your main brake lights though because mine wouldn't work with switchbacks in the front turn signals without load resistors in the front park lights.I have links to all three in this post of my build thread. If you want all LEDs for the turn signals, you need the non-polarized LEDs for the sidemarkers (also linked in the build thread).
I have switchbacks in my turn signals also but never heard of non-polarized LED's . I used regular ones in my park lights. Check your main brake lights though because mine wouldn't work with switchbacks in the front turn signals without load resistors in the front park lights.
I also have an electronic LED compatible flasher/ turn signal relay but the reason I used a load resistor in the front marker lights was so the brake lights would work with LED switchbacks in the front turn signals. The 3rd brake light still worked but not the main ones. I think it had to do with the fact that the brake lights are tied into the rear marker lights which are also LED on mine. Maybe not enough load in the marker light circuit.Non-polarized LEDs basically just add a full wave bridge rectifier circuit (a diode matrix) to the bulb so it doesn't matter what direction it's plugged in. The LEDs in the bulb are still polarized, but the diodes fix that. It also allows the bulb to source its ground connection just like the stock bulb.
The way GM designed the side-marker circuit, the direction the bulb sources its ground reverses depending on whether the parking lights are on or not.
I think my break lights are still working, but I didn't stand in front of them to double check.
I also changed the turn signal relay to an LED compatible part, so I didn't use loading resistors on the front.
New rear shocks for my lowered suburban. Wanted single adjustable, but we had these laying around the shop.
Just checked mine, and the rear LED lights (both brake and turn) are working fine.I also have an electronic LED compatible flasher/ turn signal relay but the reason I used a load resistor in the front marker lights was so the brake lights would work with LED switchbacks in the front turn signals. The 3rd brake light still worked but not the main ones. I think it had to do with the fact that the brake lights are tied into the rear marker lights which are also LED on mine. Maybe not enough load in the marker light circuit.
Why not flip em and reduce unsprung weight?
Thanks for the info. I ordered the Bora 1.75" spacers. You may have saved my life so thanks for that.