What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sam Harris]

Sounds nice! Sounds like it has some lope to it. How's your gas mileage been?

Better than expected.! She’s running very rich, so I expect it to improve once the tune is nailed down. Currently getting about 13mpg stop and go.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Better than expected.! She’s running very rich, so I expect it to improve once the tune is nailed down. Currently getting about 13mpg stop and go.

Driving it normally? You're getting better mileage then me.

 

[Sam Harris]

Driving it normally? You're getting better mileage then me.

Yeah, driving it, and trying not to have too heavy a right foot. Lol. So all stop and go, no highway, and very inconsistent. Just quick around town trips.. with the AC cranked in the 100°+ heat. Lol.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yeah, driving it, and trying not to have too heavy a right foot. Lol. So all stop and go, no highway, and very inconsistent. Just quick around town trips.. with the AC cranked in the 100°+ heat. Lol.

Be careful if there's no torque management. That's how my rear blew lol. I was having too much fun.

 

[MassHoe04]

I picked up some Denso 25326903 flex fuel injectors (36 lbs @ 58 psi) from the junk yard for my re-build. I got a rebuild kit from the injector shop and started the process. Nothing clogged but micro filters are definitely dirty. Next is to see how to DIY flow check to see how close they are to each other. Any one else flow check their injectors outside of the engine?

There is a specialty shop near me in Oxford, CT, if you ever want to go that route...
They do injectors for racing and all kinds of special applications.

They are well known, have quick turn-arounds (1-2 days) and have a great reputation.

Send them your injectors and they send them back all done, balanced and ready to go for about $26 each.

Marren Fuel Injection

Injector Service

 

[MassHoe04]

Tuesday was hub day...
SKF (Moog) replacement from NAPA.

I decided to pull the front axle shaft, because I could not move it back out of the way far enough. I did not want to be banging on the CV boot or damage anything with the BFH.

On the other hub I did in May, I bought a set of new bolts and used the old ones to beat the hub out of the knuckle. I kept the old bolts for use on the driver's side. Worked great! Popped the hub out with a few taps!

I scrubbed and painted the knuckle and dust shield while I was in there.

I applied anti-seize the knuckle in case I ever have to do them again. These were the higher-quality hubs, so I think I should be set for a while. At least the next guy will be able to pull the hub out easily...

I'll ask you to squint a little and pretend you don't see how crusty the brake hose connector is at the caliper. That is on my to-do list.


I left the caliper and pads attached to the carrier and removed the entire carrier. I did not touch the brakes in the process and was able to slip it back on without having to compress the pistons. That sped the process up.

 

[iddqd]

New wheels & tires for summer: factory Silverado SS 20" wheels wrapped in Continental TerrainContact A/T 275/60R20. Wheels were powder coated in dark gunmetal color.

No rubbing with front leveling & 1/4 wheel spacers.

Pix:

 

[iddqd]

Moar pix:

 

[iddqd]

Moar pix:

 

[iddqd]

New wheels & tires for *winter: factory Z71 18" gunmetal wheels wrapped in TOYO Open Country AT3 LT285/65R18.

No rubbing either.

* I live in Northern Comifornia, so summer vs winter is barely distinguishable. But I travel to Tahoe in winter, and it's snowy there in January.

Pix: