What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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clandr1

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I did the same, front and back plus steering components to regain that 'new ride' ride. Don't overlook your control arm and rear axle bumpers. :favorites37:
Thanks for the suggestion! The steering components are relatively new (all less than 3 years old), and I show I replaced the bump stops, front and rear, about 4 years ago. Visually they look to be in good shape. Really excited to replace the original front upper control arms - I think it'll solve a slight pull I've had for the last 3 years, and might resolve a clunk I get on occasion when I am turning on uneven surfaces.
 

ScottyBoy

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ive had pass rear dead window regulator or motor for ohhhh, say 3 years now lol i bought 4 new regulators 5 years ago on close out at rock auto. (cause dirt cheap and you know one day they all gonna die) bought two new motors for the pass side 3 years ago now. (front pass window is kinda slow) today was the day i finally changed it, i feel super lazy about it now cause it was stupid easy to change. like i know they are not hard, but the backs, my god, to easy.

needless to say, but ive got a working pass back window again.
I am ashamed to admit, I am in the same boat. My rear passenger side regulator started acting up almost a year ago. It had trouble going up and it was making horrible crunching sounds. I finally got it rolled up, and I ordered a new regulator/motor assembly from Rockauto. It's been sitting in my storage shed ever since. I just haven't gotten around to replacing it because I don't ever roll that window down. Lol
 

Scottydoggs

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I am ashamed to admit, I am in the same boat. My rear passenger side regulator started acting up almost a year ago. It had trouble going up and it was making horrible crunching sounds. I finally got it rolled up, and I ordered a new regulator/motor assembly from Rockauto. It's been sitting in my storage shed ever since. I just haven't gotten around to replacing it because I don't ever roll that window down. Lol
same deal here. if it was the d/s back it would have been fixed long ago. mine was shut for so long it was glued up in the frame, the popping noise it made when it came down was loud lol
 

Fless

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Disconnected the trickle charger so it's ready to drive to the orifice tomorrow. I'm finally out of the "boot" that was needed after foot surgery so no more hand controls on the DD. But Red Hoe hasn't been driven in a month so she needs some exercise.
 

Tonyrodz

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Does anyone know the part number or where/how i can find the rear brake line on the ds that goes from that little brass "splitter that's mounted above the rearend(pumpkin) housing. Line goes from there into the rubber brake line that goes into the caliper. I have copper replacement line with the fittings to make my own line, but I'd rather buy it if it's available--and cheap enough.
 

Scottydoggs

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Does anyone know the part number or where/how i can find the rear brake line on the ds that goes from that little brass "splitter that's mounted above the rearend(pumpkin) housing. Line goes from there into the rubber brake line that goes into the caliper. I have copper replacement line with the fittings to make my own line, but I'd rather buy it if it's available--and cheap enough.
rear center is what your looking for. ac delco is like 10 bucks more listed at the bottom.

 

Tonyrodz

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rear center is what your looking for. ac delco is like 10 bucks more listed at the bottom.

I don't think that's the one. Pretty sure that's the JL4 center rubber line, which i don't have.
I was able to grab this from a video. It's a hard line not rubber. Screenshot_20250407_180421_Samsung Internet.jpg
This is the one I'm looking for.
 

Fless

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I don't think that's the one. Pretty sure that's the JL4 center rubber line, which i don't have.
I was able to grab this from a video. It's a hard line not rubber.View attachment 454398
This is the one I'm looking for.

Looks like this one and goes to connect to the rubber line that's on the caliper:

DSCF1190.JPG
 

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