What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Ilikemtb999]

Guy I found on EBay out of Texas will ship me four 7/16-14 x 3 1/2" L9 bolts and 8 washers for $11 shipped. He is looking to see if he has L9 lock nuts to go with them.

I wonder why nobody ever made an offset T bar for the strut. I bet you could have a 1/2” offset one and then could have it on top of the strut yet lower it 1” (since it’s 2:1). Hmmmm I do have some machinist hookups.

 

[swathdiver]

LS9 cams are less than $130 on Amazon. I've been eyeing one, but idk how much the install labor would cost, and I don't have the tools, space, or patience to do it myself haha.

You will lose torque big time with a camshaft designed for a car.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

You will lose torque big time with a camshaft designed for a car.

Yup

Here’s a great non vvt cam comparison on an early 5.3

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hotrod.com/articles/ls-cam-test-comparison/amp/

 

[swathdiver]

Yup

Here’s a great non vvt cam comparison on an early 5.3

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hotrod.com/articles/ls-cam-test-comparison/amp/

Funny, I just quoted that same article on another forum a little while ago! Big fan here of the Crane Cam Trio and especially like the first, the smallest cam, for mine someday.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Funny, I just quoted that same article on another forum a little while ago! Big fan here of the Crane Cam Trio and especially like the first, the smallest cam, for mine someday.

I just got my TSP vvt stage 2 cam in the mail yesterday. Just need to find the time to install it now.

 

[iamdub]

I wonder why nobody ever made an offset T bar for the strut. I bet you could have a 1/2” offset one and then could have it on top of the strut yet lower it 1” (since it’s 2:1). Hmmmm I do have some machinist hookups.

Ingeniously simple idea. I think a forged offset T-bar would be great. The trick wold be getting it into the shock eye. A two-piece bushing would work, but how long would a two-piece bushing last? Or maybe a two-piece T-bar, like male and female halves? Press fit to eliminate wallowing?

 

[Doubeleive]

New drivers inside door handle

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Ingeniously simple idea. I think a forged offset T-bar would be great. The trick wold be getting it into the shock eye. A two-piece bushing would work, but how long would a two-piece bushing last? Or maybe a two-piece T-bar, like male and female halves? Press fit to eliminate wallowing?

I have qa1 coilovers on my Buick and it uses a multi piece bushing with clips to hold everything together. Seems pretty solid. Their T bars aren’t offset though. I need to get my hands on a stock T bar

 

[Blue Rock]

Replaced my driver's side motor mount today (no more take off clunk). FYI for those replacing this themselves, it's not too bad of a job. My truck is a 2007 Chevy Tahoe 5.3. Thanks to this forum I used the Hummer H3 passenger side mount which is the same as the Police PPV mount GM Part number 25847739. I got it on Amazon for $85. This was the second time I replaced my mount since owning the truck, so opted for the more heavy duty this time around. I was able to access the bolts on the block much easier from underneath the truck than trying to fight them from up top.

 

[kbuskill]

Ingeniously simple idea. I think a forged offset T-bar would be great. The trick wold be getting it into the shock eye. A two-piece bushing would work, but how long would a two-piece bushing last? Or maybe a two-piece T-bar, like male and female halves? Press fit to eliminate wallowing?

Or you could buy lower control arms that are drop arms.

I doubt very seriously that there would be enough room for the off set T-bar between the strut and the arm.

Here...

Unless it was a lot more shallow.

I felt the same way at first about bolting these up like this BUT a couple things sway my decision.

1st off... Rough Country is a pretty big company with a well known name and a lot on the line to loose if something should fail. I am certain they did their homework on the shear strength of the bolts in this configuration before allowing them to go to market. My guess is grade 8 was probably sufficient and they said "let's include L9 hardware just as a CYA". I am certain they don't want to be liable for any injuries... or worse.

2nd... @07Burb has been running his like this for a while (20k+ miles) with no ill effects and, I'm not knocking him or his truck, I don't even think that the shop that installed his this way even used the "grade 9" bolts. From the pic I saw it appears that they may have just reused the factory bolts. I base this off of the fact that all of the L9 hardware I have seen has that gold (yellow zinc) color to it and his don't appear to be that way. Although I may be mistaken.

I just don't see it being a problem for normal everyday driving.

Now if you were jumping ramps with your truck I could see the potential for failure but even then I would just about bet on breaking ball joints before breaking two 180,000 psi minimum tensile strength rated bolts.

I believe I will order 3.5" bolts because the factory bolts are 3" long and I would like a little extra length so that I can install a second nut to act as a lock nut on top of my actual lock nut on top of the blue lock tite I intend to use... definitely don't want them backing out.

The guy that mentioned the castle nut and cotter pin has a good idea but I don't know about drilling an L9 bolt... that may prove to be a chore plus it might possibly weaken it some how.

I think the lock tite + lock nut + secondary nut will be just fine.