What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[iamdub]

And sway bar and sway bar end links. The beefed up control arms keep the axle from twisting under high hp applications, that’s why I use the Spohn ones. As far as panhard, I run the QA1 which has a bend that curves around the diff, allowing me to run a girdle on my G80 to keep it together, and it’s beefier than the adjustable or stock ones. So it all depends on how hard you drive, what kind of HP you’re running and how low or high you are as to what components you need to decide on. We also need to keep in mind everything works together so if there’s a weak point it might affect the other components even if they’re not directly related, like if I get axle twist as I’m punching it going around a corner it will affect the suspension by changing the angle of the panhard bar and the end links. At least in my mind it does lol. Which affects the truck....

I agree, but I wanted to focus solely on his current setup which is essentially stock. He already has upgraded sway bars (I'm jealous!) and nowhere near the power of yours, so the axle twisting isn't a concern in his case. He also regularly inspects everything so if the control arm bushings were bad enough to allow that much movement, he'd probably be one to notice it. His problem is primarily the tall sidewalls of the stock tires rolling enough to allow contact. The axle shifting sideways is a contributing factor since the stock stamped panhard bar has considerable flex to it. Other than tires with stiffer or less sidewall, the most effective counter for his rubbing would be a stiffer panhard. Stock control arms have almost no effect (as in 99% no effect) on the lateral support. Aftermarket arms have no lateral support whatsoever since they have pivot ball bushings.

Believe me- I'm all for upgrading everything in a system where applicable! But with his XL being a family hauler, I'd stick with rubber control arm bushings to avoid the extra vibes (sound and movement) poly bushings would transmit.

 

[iamdub]

how do I determine which one of these fits my truck? the measurement on the existing cover looks like about 10", but all the covers say 8.5/8.6

8.5/8.6 is the ring gear size and is what a rear end is commonly labeled as. Ever heard of a "Ford 8.8" or "Ford 9"" or "Chrysler 8.25", etc.? Those are in reference to the ring gear diameter. They are also often referred to by how many bolts secure the ring gear to the differential assembly (10 bolt, 12 bolt, etc.). It is NOT how many bolts hold the diff cover on. The cover being secured by 10 bolts on a 10 bolt GM rear end is a coincidence.

 

[Doubeleive]

I agree, but I wanted to focus solely on his current setup which is essentially stock. He already has upgraded sway bars (I'm jealous!) and nowhere near the power of yours, so the axle twisting isn't a concern in his case. He also regularly inspects everything so if the control arm bushings were bad enough to allow that much movement, he'd probably be one to notice it. His problem is primarily the tall sidewalls of the stock tires rolling enough to allow contact. The axle shifting sideways is a contributing factor since the stock stamped panhard bar has considerable flex to it. Other than tires with stiffer or less sidewall, the most effective counter for his rubbing would be a stiffer panhard. Stock control arms have almost no effect (as in 99% no effect) on the lateral support. Aftermarket arms have no lateral support whatsoever since they have pivot ball bushings.

Believe me- I'm all for upgrading everything in a system where applicable! But with his XL being a family hauler, I'd stick with rubber control arm bushings to avoid the extra vibes (sound and movement) poly bushings would transmit.

well if I had a spare $10k laying around this would be a boosted family hauler, lol I just like everything to be durable or MORE durable than stock, not really concerned with the noise aspect too much I have a louder exhaust system and a pair of 12" jlaudio's in the back, however some noise's are straight annoying, I do turn everything down and listen to it going down walled alleyways and stuff and she is dead quiet which I like because then I can always tell when something is wrong. I have the qa1 panhard in my cart and the boxed lower control arms (they don't pivot), I think I will go with the mevotech upper control arms since the price is best for basically the same product from delco or anyone else. now just to figure out which Girdle I need, being as I have broke I think 3 g80's before it certainly couldn't hurt. I'm just wondering if the girdle/cover would work with a eaton detroit or if I should invest in a different one since I plan to upgrade the carrier in the not to distant future.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The girdle/cover should work with whatever carrier you have in there. It basically supports the bearing caps, which hold the carrier into the housing and keeps them from walking/moving by slightly preloading support pressure on them

 

[Rocket Man]

well if I had a spare $10k laying around this would be a boosted family hauler, lol I just like everything to be durable or MORE durable than stock, not really concerned with the noise aspect too much I have a louder exhaust system and a pair of 12" jlaudio's in the back, however some noise's are straight annoying, I do turn everything down and listen to it going down walled alleyways and stuff and she is dead quiet which I like because then I can always tell when something is wrong. I have the qa1 panhard in my cart and the boxed lower control arms (they don't pivot), I think I will go with the mevotech upper control arms since the price is best for basically the same product from delco or anyone else. now just to figure out which Girdle I need, being as I have broke I think 3 g80's before it certainly couldn't hurt. I'm just wondering if the girdle/cover would work with a eaton detroit or if I should invest in a different one since I plan to upgrade the carrier in the not to distant future.

You want the TA 1807A Low Profile. It fits all GM 10 bolts and it won’t matter if you change to an Eaton carrier. Make sure it’s the low profile, the regular one won’t fit. Don’t forget a gasket.
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1807A
Edit: I didn’t buy their stud kit, I just took a sample of my bolts and bought stainless ones at Ace Hardware.

 

[iamdub]

well if I had a spare $10k laying around this would be a boosted family hauler, lol

Heard that!

I just like everything to be durable or MORE durable than stock, not really concerned with the noise aspect too much I have a louder exhaust system and a pair of 12" jlaudio's in the back, however some noise's are straight annoying, I do turn everything down and listen to it going down walled alleyways and stuff and she is dead quiet which I like because then I can always tell when something is wrong. I have the qa1 panhard in my cart and the boxed lower control arms (they don't pivot), I think I will go with the mevotech upper control arms since the price is best for basically the same product from delco or anyone else. now just to figure out which Girdle I need, being as I have broke I think 3 g80's before it certainly couldn't hurt. I'm just wondering if the girdle/cover would work with a eaton detroit or if I should invest in a different one since I plan to upgrade the carrier in the not to distant future.

More durability is always a plus in my book. Just know that you may feel more road vibes in the seat. It likely won't be obnoxious, but it's something you should know. I'd say it's like running poly engine mounts- they transmit idle vibes, but are pretty much a non-issue anywhere above idle. I'll tolerate some vibes at idle if it means knowing my engine will stay put. Feeling a little more feedback from the road is a small sacrifice if it means your rear end is located more solidly and the bushings will last longer.

I don't see someone designing an aftermarket performance diff cover to have LESS internal clearance than the stock stamped cover. If a beefier carrier fits under a stock cover, then it should surely fit under a reinforcing (girdled) cover since it's an upgraded/performance item designed for an upgraded/performance diff. As Tom mentioned, the girdle is designed to preload the bearing caps to provide extra support. The bearing caps are on the sides of the carrier so the reinforcing studs of the girdle won't interfere.

 

[Doubeleive]

it's a go, got these 3 off ebay for same price anywhere else less taxe's and free ship except the lower controls which was only $12.95, the upper mevotech's are $99 for the set from rockauto and only $7 shipping because there west coast warehouse is only about an hour away from me, so roughly $579.00 for everything fresh and new, it's just money and I managed to make some extra funds this month so I have some to play with.

 

[iamdub]

it's a go, got these 3 off ebay for same price anywhere else less taxe's and free ship except the lower controls which was only $12.95, the upper mevotech's are $99 for the set from rockauto and only $7 shipping because there west coast warehouse is only about an hour away from me, so roughly $579.00 for everything fresh and new, it's just money and I managed to make some extra funds this month so I have some to play with.

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Next month- 22s with performance street tires?

 

[Doubeleive]

Next month- 22s with performance street tires?

eh I don't know I wouldn't go above a 22" for sure, I have 22's wheels on the Silverado that I like but it's a not a daily driver unless the yukon is down, the problem is finding good tires I really like these goodyear ls/2's but they don't sell them in a 22"

 

[R3cord303]

Today I ordered the H3 drivers side engine mount. I’m going to have the guy at the speed shop replace it while he’s replacing the engine.