What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[avalonandl]

[QUOTE="swathdiver, post: 1378402, member:




That's impressive Roger! I don't remember, has she been tuned and was AFM active for this run? What tires?[/QUOTE]

Is stock and yes AFM is active. Has Bridgestone 22's on it Dueler Alenza- I think they are the same as OE. EPA says 18 mpg hwy- LOL

EDIT:Brand new plugs & wires

 

[Regency]

Where's that?

Access road off of Blewett Pass

 

[Rocket Man]

Had our first snowfall!
View attachment 231533

We got snow in the passes around here too. Glad I live in the valley.

 

[R3cord303]

Almost done with drivers side. Got to button up brake caliper and sway bar end link- then do passenger side. Passenger side should go faster. Time estimate from RC is 2-3 hrs. Biggest hold up so far was figuring out how to get the ABS speed sensor off. And you dont have to remove tie rod end to do this.

 

[iamdub]

Almost done with drivers side. Got to button up brake caliper and sway bar end link- then do passenger side. Passenger side should go faster. Time estimate from RC is 2-3 hrs. Biggest hold up so far was figuring out how to get the ABS speed sensor off. And you dont have to remove tie rod end to do this.

View attachment 231561

Brake caliper? Speed sensor? I didn't have to unbolt anything but the bottom of the strut and the sway bar end links to do mine.

 

[R3cord303]

Brake caliper? Speed sensor? I didn't have to unbolt anything but the bottom of the strut and the sway bar end links to do mine.

I took the caliper and wheel speed sensor off because I hadn’t ever dealt with this suspension before and wasn’t sure how far the LCA would droop after the upper ball joint was off. Videos and the instructions show that kt makes it easier to get the spacer and the new fasteners in with the UCA disconnected because the CV shaft is right above the bolt head. I suppose you could run with the fasteners the other way- with the nuts on the inside of suspension but with the bolts on top and nuts on bottom I think less dust and crap will get on the threads, and its ‘safer’ if the nuts back off (which they shouldn’t- they’re nylock nuts and torqued to spec) but safty sallys will cry about it.

That and I think its easier to actually get the strut hole, the spacer hole, and the hole in the LCA to line up when you do bolts on top. Just me though.

 

[R3cord303]

I’m really having a bear of a time with passenger side upper ball joint. I’ve managed to get the spacer between shock and LCA- and even got one bolt in but i can’t get the other bolt to line up with the hole in the shock- its so close but not quite there. If I can get that one to pop all the way in I won’t have to take the upper ball joint all the way off

 

[Doubeleive]

I’m really having a bear of a time with passenger side upper ball joint. I’ve managed to get the spacer between shock and LCA- and even got one bolt in but i can’t get the other bolt to line up with the hole in the shock- its so close but not quite there. If I can get that one to pop all the way in I won’t have to take the upper ball joint all the way off

hammer? crow bar? punch? when I cant get holes to line up I stick a punch in the hole and smack it on whatever side needs adjusting, make sure the other bolt is "loose"

 

[R3cord303]

hammer? crow bar? punch? when I cant get holes to line up I stick a punch in the hole and smack it on whatever side needs adjusting, make sure the other bolt is "loose"

I couldn’t get the upper ball joint off. I was able to get one side bolt in from the top, and finally was able to get the other side in bolt on bottom. Not ideal but w/e. Will torque that bolt a few pounds higher than the other ones. I used a washer on that one as well to give some more clearance between the threaded section and the CV shaft because it was a bit close for my prefrence.

 

[akbrener]

@wjburken Here's the finished product.