What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

The only engine covers I’ve ever liked are the Corvette ones. And they don’t work with the 5.3s or the truck intakes.

Anything is better than that mess that’s there when they're removed. Even when guys try to shave the intake manifold and paint it, it still looks terrible. It looks like unfinished business and there’s no way to clean it up. A supercharger does it, by eliminating the ugly intake manifold and replacing it with something that looks nice, plus all the wiring and hoses are redistributed so it looks clean. Add some billet coil brackets, paint the valve covers or buy some nice ones, nice looking alternator, etc and it’s good to go.

 

[iamdub]

I took the caliper and wheel speed sensor off because I hadn’t ever dealt with this suspension before and wasn’t sure how far the LCA would droop after the upper ball joint was off. Videos and the instructions show that kt makes it easier to get the spacer and the new fasteners in with the UCA disconnected because the CV shaft is right above the bolt head. I suppose you could run with the fasteners the other way- with the nuts on the inside of suspension but with the bolts on top and nuts on bottom I think less dust and crap will get on the threads, and its ‘safer’ if the nuts back off (which they shouldn’t- they’re nylock nuts and torqued to spec) but safty sallys will cry about it.

That and I think its easier to actually get the strut hole, the spacer hole, and the hole in the LCA to line up when you do bolts on top. Just me though.

I can dig it. I tend to try to do things as simply as possible, but that doesn't always mean it's the easiest. I'm stubborn at times and will fight something if I think I can accomplish it in three steps when four or five steps would be easier. My way was quick and involved lesser disassembly, but it also involved straddling a 36" pry bar to use my body weight to push on it so I'd have both hands free to work the spacer and bolts into position.

 

[The_Burban]

Finally, the rear Bilstein 5100s. Tried for Z71 springs but could not get to cram in there. Ran out of light, time and really it looked as though the springs were replaced. The PO towed a horse trailer: I would not be surprised if they are Z71 springs for towing purposes.

New rear sway links as an already in there job, too. Replaced w/ Moog.

Found a weatherpack connection disconnected. Rear, above exhuast and on top of frame rail on pass side. I plugged it back in..

Now I have an ABS and TCS light. I'll Chase them rabbits later. First I will clear codes to see if they reappear.

 

[iamdub]

Only thing I don’t like about how the engine looks without the cover is the resonators on the intake tube that go down by AC lines (cant see in pic) and towards the rear of engine. My christmas present to myself will be the air raid intake tube that doesnt have the resonators.

Other thing I don’t like is the harness that crosses the engine on top but there’s nothing I can do about that.

View attachment 231575

I thought you were gonna trim off those chambers and epoxy over the holes?

 

[R3cord303]

I thought you were gonna trim off those chambers and epoxy over the holes?

I still might. Really want to! I just can’t seem to find my dremel- and the dremel was same price as that air raid tube

 

[R3cord303]

Finally, the rear Bilstein 5100s. Tried for Z71 springs but could not get to cram in there. Ran out of light, time and really it looked as though the springs were replaced. The PO towed a horse trailer: I would not be surprised if they are Z71 springs for towing purposes.

New rear sway links as an already in there job, too. Replaced w/ Moog.

Found a weatherpack connection disconnected. Rear, above exhuast and on top of frame rail on pass side. I plugged it back in..

Now I have an ABS and TCS light. I'll Chase them rabbits later. First I will clear codes to see if they reappear.

View attachment 231578

Yum. I’ll be doing 5100s all the way around for my z55 delete. Just waiting for air shocks to fail.

 

[iamdub]

Anything is better than that mess that’s there when they're removed. Even when guys try to shave the intake manifold and paint it, it still looks terrible. It looks like unfinished business and there’s no way to clean it up. A supercharger does it, by eliminating the ugly intake manifold and replacing it with something that looks nice, plus all the wiring and hoses are redistributed so it looks clean. Add some billet coil brackets, paint the valve covers or buy some nice ones, nice looking alternator, etc and it’s good to go.View attachment 231577

Or....

... Just close the hood and walk away. Close the hood, walk away.

 

[iamdub]

View attachment 231577

BTW, it'd appreciate it if you'd stop posting that pic. My hand is really cramping.

 

[iamdub]

I still might. Really want to! I just can’t seem to find my dremel- and the dremel was same price as that air raid tube

I still want you to! I'm sure it could be cut with a utility knife. Or a hack saw blade? I'm a bit behind the times, but I discovered and bought one of these not long ago:




I wish I would've had it when I was slicing that PVC pipe for my center caps.

 

[wjburken]

BTW, it'd appreciate it if you'd stop posting that pic. My hand is really cramping.

Hold your phone with the other hand. It’ll be a whole new experience!