What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

Put the Suburban back up on jack stands this morning. Removed the driver side sway bar bushing and gave it a good glob of grease. Went to remove the passengers side and one of the bolts will not budge. Rather it wants to round off. Tried a 6 point and 12 point deep socket and had a look at some vice grips. NOPE!! The sockets want to round off the head and the vice grip is not really going to work due to limited spacing.

Any further thoughts on getting that bolt to move without making the head into a marble??

As I was messing around on the passenger side, I think I found my clunking issue.

The passenger side stabilizer bar link bushing is gone! I guess I overlooked it in my hurry or maybe it finally just popped off.

Missing bushing under the sway bar.
View attachment 233660


Sway bar bushing bolt wanting to round off the head. 10mm.
View attachment 233661

Also removed and greased the rear sway bar bushings as well.

Here are the stabilizer bar link kits I am looking at. Moog Problem Solver which is what I put on the Tahoe.

Moog K700538 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700538...2?keywords=K700538+moog&qid=1572793274&sr=8-2

Here is the Moog site link.
https://www.moogparts.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?parttype=SUSPENSION&apptype=AUTOMOTIVE&options=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500&values=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500

man that sucks, I would say heat it up with a torch real good but that means you will probably need new bushings, if it refuses to come out you might have to get a grinder out and cut the bracket off on that side then you will have room to work with it. My guess is your going to need new end links, bolt and some d brackets and bushings I don't think they sell them separate.

 

[Rocket Man]

http://energysuspension.com/assets/files/energysuspension-catalog.pdf

 

[iamdub]

Have you checked to see if the air bags are blown? If I remember right, you’re interested in removing autoride? I love the auto leveling in mine after lowering, it keeps it from rubbing no matter how many people are in it even though I don’t have much clearance to the fenders.

Checked 'em when I bought it three years ago and they were blown long before the dealer got it. I like AutoRide, but am fine with giving it up when I lower it. Between the lower center of gravity and (eventually) stiffer sway bars, I'll be fine with static damping. I would like to keep the AutoLevel, but since there aren't shorter AutoLevel shocks I'll need for my intended amount of drop, I have to switch to shorter shocks. Wanting to keep ALC is why I'm gonna try using the system to inflate Air Lift bags and why I've already invested in a new compressor. What I'm aiming for is to have that same control that operates like factory, just with Air Lift bags instead of bellows on the shocks. The coils for the models with ALC are softer than those with without ALC. So when the ALC system is inoperable, the ride can be a bit too plush which explains the slightly sloppy feeling. The AutoRide shocks are trying to compensate, but they're worn as well and the electronic damping can only compensate so much. I plan to dive into the AFM/motor refresh job after the first of next year, then I'm attacking the suspension. I already have all the parts on deck.

 

[wjburken]

Put the Suburban back up on jack stands this morning. Removed the driver side sway bar bushing and gave it a good glob of grease. Went to remove the passengers side and one of the bolts will not budge. Rather it wants to round off. Tried a 6 point and 12 point deep socket and had a look at some vice grips. NOPE!! The sockets want to round off the head and the vice grip is not really going to work due to limited spacing.

Any further thoughts on getting that bolt to move without making the head into a marble??

As I was messing around on the passenger side, I think I found my clunking issue.

The passenger side stabilizer bar link bushing is gone! I guess I overlooked it in my hurry or maybe it finally just popped off.

Missing bushing under the sway bar.
View attachment 233660


Sway bar bushing bolt wanting to round off the head. 10mm.
View attachment 233661

Also removed and greased the rear sway bar bushings as well.

Here are the stabilizer bar link kits I am looking at. Moog Problem Solver which is what I put on the Tahoe.

Moog K700538 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700538...2?keywords=K700538+moog&qid=1572793274&sr=8-2

Here is the Moog site link.
https://www.moogparts.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?parttype=SUSPENSION&apptype=AUTOMOTIVE&options=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500&values=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500

Been there my friend and know how much it sucks.

A couple of thoughts in addition to those already offered up since the bolt is toast already.

1) if you can get a cutoff wheel and cut a a slot in the head of the bolt and then take a manual impact driver with a stilled screw bit and try that. They work well for breaking loose rusted bolts due to I’m-line impact and rotation at the same time.

2) weld a nut or bolt to it to extend it out past your bracket.

Had all 4 bolts break off on my ‘07 and had to drill them all out.

 

[Rocket Man]

Checked 'em when I bought it three years ago and they were blown long before the dealer got it. I like AutoRide, but am fine with giving it up when I lower it. Between the lower center of gravity and (eventually) stiffer sway bars, I'll be fine with static damping. I would like to keep the AutoLevel, but since there aren't shorter AutoLevel shocks I'll need for my intended amount of drop, I have to switch to shorter shocks. Wanting to keep ALC is why I'm gonna try using the system to inflate Air Lift bags and why I've already invested in a new compressor. What I'm aiming for is to have that same control that operates like factory, just with Air Lift bags instead of bellows on the shocks. The coils for the models with ALC are softer than those with without ALC. So when the ALC system is inoperable, the ride can be a bit too plush which explains the slightly sloppy feeling. The AutoRide shocks are trying to compensate, but they're worn as well and the electronic damping can only compensate so much. I plan to dive into the AFM/motor refresh job after the first of next year, then I'm attacking the suspension. I already have all the parts on deck.

You just need shock extenders, not shorter shocks FYI. You can do a 6” rear drop with standard length shocks if you just extend the mounts. And shorten the ride height links with threaded rods.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Put the Suburban back up on jack stands this morning. Removed the driver side sway bar bushing and gave it a good glob of grease. Went to remove the passengers side and one of the bolts will not budge. Rather it wants to round off. Tried a 6 point and 12 point deep socket and had a look at some vice grips. NOPE!! The sockets want to round off the head and the vice grip is not really going to work due to limited spacing.

Any further thoughts on getting that bolt to move without making the head into a marble??

As I was messing around on the passenger side, I think I found my clunking issue.

The passenger side stabilizer bar link bushing is gone! I guess I overlooked it in my hurry or maybe it finally just popped off.

Missing bushing under the sway bar.
View attachment 233660


Sway bar bushing bolt wanting to round off the head. 10mm.
View attachment 233661

Also removed and greased the rear sway bar bushings as well.

Here are the stabilizer bar link kits I am looking at. Moog Problem Solver which is what I put on the Tahoe.

Moog K700538 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700538...2?keywords=K700538+moog&qid=1572793274&sr=8-2

Here is the Moog site link.
https://www.moogparts.com/find-my-p...rban 1500&values=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500

I'd try spraying some penetrating oil (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc) into the thread area and use a bolt extractor socket (I have a Craftsman set) to get that bolt out.

Last month my drivers side end link was busted off at the bottom and I used the same replacements that you have linked to. Just remember that they are sold individually and you should replace both sides. They get torqued to like 17 ft lbs

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[iamdub]

You just need shock extenders, not shorter shocks FYI. You can do a 6” rear drop with standard length shocks if you just extend the mounts. And shorten the ride height links with threaded rods.

I have extenders that, according to my measurements, look like they'd compensate for 3" of the proposed 5" drop and I'll be using them with the BT shocks. If the Air Lift bags and/or BT shock thing doesn't work out, then I'll look at getting the Arnotts. I'm so damned caught up in "modifying but keeping it stock" that I designed my drop around doing what I could to retain the stock ride and suspension travel. I plan to make my own control arms to center then axle. I'm even contemplating making bracketry to put the UCAs back to their stock positions in relation to the LCAs rather than just using the relocators on the LCAs.

 

[Fosscore]

Oh crap you’re going to have to hammer on a 12-pt socket after heating the shit out of that bolt. I have a Port-A-Torch oxyacetylene kit that will get it cherry red but a long time with propane may work too. Find a 12-pt that is just a tad smaller.


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Probably time for a drill bit and easy out on that bolt after a good soak with PB Blaster and maybe heat like Sam said. Those end links are a common failure due to a ****** design, they trap and hold water. The Problem Solver line is there because GM has a problem with some of their designs lol. Good choice.
Edit: you might want to look into some sway bar bushings with grease fittings like the poly ones at Energy Suspension so you never have to remove those bolts again.

Yeah I remember you changing out to the Energy because of the zerk fitting to make sure it is able to be lubed.

man that sucks, I would say heat it up with a torch real good but that means you will probably need new bushings, if it refuses to come out you might have to get a grinder out and cut the bracket off on that side then you will have room to work with it. My guess is your going to need new end links, bolt and some d brackets and bushings I don't think they sell them separate.

Been there my friend and know how much it sucks.

A couple of thoughts in addition to those already offered up since the bolt is toast already.

1) if you can get a cutoff wheel and cut a a slot in the head of the bolt and then take a manual impact driver with a stilled screw bit and try that. They work well for breaking loose rusted bolts due to I’m-line impact and rotation at the same time.

2) weld a nut or bolt to it to extend it out past your bracket.

Had all 4 bolts break off on my ‘07 and had to drill them all out.

I'd try spraying some penetrating oil (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc) into the thread area and use a bolt extractor socket (I have a Craftsman set) to get that bolt out.

Last month my drivers side end link was busted off at the bottom and I used the same replacements that you have linked to. Just remember that they are sold individually and you should replace both sides. They get torqued to like 17 ft lbs

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

Thx guys for all the input for myself and others. I put the Moog Problem Solver set on the Tahoe as well and I will be changing out both sides for the NNBS. As said, I got 3 of the bushings lubed and may consider changing out to the Energy Suspension zerk fitting type later on.

Thankfully that rounded bolt head on the passenger side sway bar bushing is still intact and holding the bar tight, so I can deal with that later.

New end links should stop the clunking and off to the next item. lol. Thx guys.

 

[89Suburban]

Put the Suburban back up on jack stands this morning. Removed the driver side sway bar bushing and gave it a good glob of grease. Went to remove the passengers side and one of the bolts will not budge. Rather it wants to round off. Tried a 6 point and 12 point deep socket and had a look at some vice grips. NOPE!! The sockets want to round off the head and the vice grip is not really going to work due to limited spacing.

Any further thoughts on getting that bolt to move without making the head into a marble??

As I was messing around on the passenger side, I think I found my clunking issue.

The passenger side stabilizer bar link bushing is gone! I guess I overlooked it in my hurry or maybe it finally just popped off.

Missing bushing under the sway bar.
View attachment 233660


Sway bar bushing bolt wanting to round off the head. 10mm.
View attachment 233661

Also removed and greased the rear sway bar bushings as well.

Here are the stabilizer bar link kits I am looking at. Moog Problem Solver which is what I put on the Tahoe.

Moog K700538 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700538...2?keywords=K700538+moog&qid=1572793274&sr=8-2

Here is the Moog site link.
https://www.moogparts.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?parttype=SUSPENSION&apptype=AUTOMOTIVE&options=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500&values=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT..._xuCx4Hi_xK6PKe3_2waAhM9EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[BG1988]

Found out why so many people drive around in Tahoe’s with one DRL out. **** the accountant that designed this headlight setup. Threw my beer in the woods and walked away before I fire bombed my own truck.

Everyone is doing it wrong taking apart the whole car to change out the bulbs



I found a simple solution that only requires 2 parts removed from the engine bay and child slave labor

as those little tiny hands can get into small space