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I used 16 ga and it seems to be ok. I tinned the ends and smashed them flat before I inserted them into the slots in the fuse panel, then carefully rocked the relays in. Be careful not to push too ******* the relays; I found out the hard way when I pushed one of the legs into the relay and it made contact inside. It was no longer a relay but a bridge instead.Got my Diodes in the mail today, Thanks!!
What gauge wire should I use for this mod?
I wonder how much work it would be to make the connection inside the fuse block somehow? Can you get to the back and solder a jumper there? Wedging a wire into a relay socket would be okay for testing. But I'm not comfortable leaving it like that.I used 16 ga and it seems to be ok. I tinned the ends and smashed them flat before I inserted them into the slots in the fuse panel, then carefully rocked the relays in. Be careful not to push too ******* the relays; I found out the hard way when I pushed one of the legs into the relay and it made contact inside. It was no longer a relay but a bridge instead.
I plan on finding out. I looked online at removing the fuse block and it looks like it plugs into several connectors so I’ll have to figure out which connectors those relays plug into and remove them to gain access under them where the actual wires are. Or possible find the wires outside of the fuse panel by color codes on the schematics but the problem is it looks like the wires go from the outputs of the relays to the fuses which are right next to the relays so I need to connect between the relays and the fuses, not after the fuses. They’re probably just jumpers in those connectors. On another note, I have the same setups in my 02 for 2 mods and they’re been like that for at least 2 years. I kind of like being able to see them. IDK.I wonder how much work it would be to make the connection inside the fuse block somehow? Can you get to the back and solder a jumper there? Wedging a wire into a relay socket would be okay for testing. But I'm not comfortable leaving it like that.
Agreed! best damn set of tires I ever listened to for hours on the highway LOLDuratracs are amazing tires but man do they get loud and choppy when theyre below 1/2 worn. (Yes i rotated them lol)
Good info. I'm in the car now with the Tech2 hooked up and looking at the door positions. They all seem fine. Attached are the screen shots.Your Auxiliary Mode Actuator probably needs replacing. Go into the Body Control Module, HVAC and then Door Positions and see what the commanded and actual states are. If they are off by more than 4 or 5 counts its going to throw a code. The B3782 code makes me think that the thing is wandering, the commanded might be a 32 counts but the actual is all over the place. That's is what my main Mode Door Actuator is doing right now with it's corresponding code like yours. If it doesn't rain tomorrow and my back holds out, it'll get changed.
Good luck trying to order the right one ahead of time. I thought I knew them but was proven wrong! I THINK it is 15-72972/89018375. Already proven that 15-72971/89018365 controls the driver and passenger air temperatures and that 15-73952/89018374 is the main Mode Door up front, it's sitting on my desk.
You can clear them and then run a dtc check again and see if it still comes up if not then check again in a couple days, or clear them and then do a re-calibration and see if it throws a dtc again.Good info. I'm in the car now with the Tech2 hooked up and looking at the door positions. They all seem fine. Attached are the screen shots.
I also notice on the HVAC system data screen that it lists
"Ign. Cycles Since Last DTC" is 100
So who knows. Would doing an actuator recalibration hurt anything?
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Good info. I'm in the car now with the Tech2 hooked up and looking at the door positions. They all seem fine. Attached are the screen shots.
I also notice on the HVAC system data screen that it lists
"Ign. Cycles Since Last DTC" is 100
So who knows. Would doing an actuator recalibration hurt anything?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk