What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Just Fishing

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Eww, lookong up that hummer enginw mount pn.
Hope that's not the rona shutdowns again... lol

Spring i needed my chainsaw, low compression and power, i needed a top end kit asap!
2 months later i finally got it.
Paid for 2nd day shipping.
No refunds. :emotions122:
 

alpha_omega

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Eww, lookong up that hummer enginw mount pn.
Hope that's not the rona shutdowns again... lol

Spring i needed my chainsaw, low compression and power, i needed a top end kit asap!
2 months later i finally got it.
Paid for 2nd day shipping.
No refunds. :emotions122:
It seems like everything regardless of where it’s coming from is being delayed or has an increased shipping time.
 

Just Fishing

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Searching around a bit preparing for the DOD delete project on my Hoe.
I ran into this little part: ACDelco 96041864
Amazon.com: ACDelco 96041864 GM Original Equipment Multi-Purpose Drain Plug: Automotive

Apparently it fits the bleed off port in the oil pan...

thoughts on me deleting that little thing during the DOD/AFM delete?
I do have a Melling HV HP pump that I'm planning on using.
Thinking it might not be a bad idea so i don't have to pull that pan off again... :ehcapt:


Currently i'm searching for the vlom block off plugs, i like the idea of hammering in a plug vs threading since I'm probably not going to be pulling the block.
I also do have the correct block off plate with the sealing o-rings, so it would just be a backup anyways.
 

R3cord303

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I'm having a HELL of a time getting motor mounts. I'm on vendor number 2. They're INSISTING on a VIN before they'll expedite the order with GM. This big brother draconian crap is driving me nuts. I looked up a valid VIN for an '09 Hummer H3 so it would match the motor mounts, and gave them my VIN for the transmission mounts. (holding breath)
You may forgo getting H3 mounts and get polyurethane mounts from someone like energy suspension. They’ll be even more solid than the solid rubber ones- but in they will be rougher
 

Derick

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Been driving the sheeeeeit outta the burb. Put on about 3k miles in 5 weeks time.

Finally, FINALLY just ordered the custom metal T's for the cooling system hardening thanks to info from @iamdub . Been wanting to do this awhile now. I have the dorman lower water pump hose, but I gotta get the parts lined up for the heater hoses. I really want to do a reverse flush of the heater core too...so hopefully in a few weeks time we have another nicer day where I can get the hose out and replace the cooling rubber.
 

alpha_omega

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Been driving the sheeeeeit outta the burb. Put on about 3k miles in 5 weeks time.

Finally, FINALLY just ordered the custom metal T's for the cooling system hardening thanks to info from @iamdub . Been wanting to do this awhile now. I have the dorman lower water pump hose, but I gotta get the parts lined up for the heater hoses. I really want to do a reverse flush of the heater core too...so hopefully in a few weeks time we have another nicer day where I can get the hose out and replace the cooling rubber.
Check the fit on your hoses before you get started. I bought OEM ACDelco hoses but they were different sizes than the original ones. Since mine were in good shape I’m just swapping out the connectors at the core. My fittings weren’t bad, but while it was empty of coolant I figured why not do it now and save myself the trouble later. Only prob is that I now have a hose I won’t be using.
 

89Suburban

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Been digging for a minute and can't find them at the moment. However, I did run across this:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/attachments/console-wiring-harness-connection-108-pdf.185222/

It has the wire colors and locations for the speaker signals feeding the Bose. If your wire colors and locations match, you could tap into those wires. I'm not sure if it matters to tap into a front or rear pair. I'd tap the front, assuming it has the most full-range sound. Your amp's built-in crossover will filter out the mids and highs. Cut and strip the wires, cut and strip some RCAs (female ends), solder them accordingly (center of the RCA is +). Don't forget the heat shrink. Then, just plug regular RCA cables to them and route 'em to your amp as you would if you plugged the RCAs to the back of an aftermarket HU.


*EDIT*

Just found this. Might wanna research it first. Apparently, the "A" at the end denotes that it is for those vehicles with the Bose amp: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-18700-PAC-AOEM-GM1416A.html


Look what I got. :)






IMG_2838.JPG
 

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