What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[RobsFreeland]

All jazzed to put cam in and start the rebuild. NNNNNNah.
Put crank back to tdc or number one cylinder. Pulled cam plate and cam. Worn where it rides on rollers but not bad for 200000. Like I can really tell. I’m a new guy, re- living my glory days.
Went to grab cam looked at cam card, didn’t look right. Looked up specs and order sheet , #@#$&& wrong cam. Got with supplier who slapped me and said don’t do that again, reordered the RIGHT parts. Thanks supplier. Should be here moment into. Lesson learned, check and double check.

 

[Just Fishing]

for fun, i took my old oil pump apart.
Noticed some grit in the bypass, and when putting it back together it was clear the bypass was stuck open slightly and fully closed when i put it back together...

 

[Just Fishing]

And i have my new lifters soaking in VR1, in the ultrasonic with the heat @ 120f.
Figure since i have the silly thing...

 

[Doubeleive]

Good call. I had checked for voltage at the grid with the switch turned on and had nothing. Both the tabs looked good, they aren’t falling off but the left one isn’t making contact with the grid, there’s zero continuity from that tab to the grid. I’ll either try soldering with silver solder since the tab is solid or buy a Frostfighter kit again.
Edit: I found a Frostfighter grid repair kit in my garage, saw it had a bit of the epoxy left over. So I cleaned up the area and masked off the area around the tab, then used the FF and went to pull off the masking tape and realized I shouldn’t have put tape over the pad itself, only on the glass. It took a big part of the pad but only in the middle, it still had contact areas. Anyway, I dug the last of the epoxy from the bottom of the bottle and painted it over the missing pad area. I hit it with a heat gun for a couple minutes. I’ll wait until tomorrow to see if I have continuity.

the rear defroster works like Christmas tree lights, sometimes the film cracks from age, much more common than a break somewhere else.

 

[Rocket Man]

the rear defroster works like Christmas tree lights, sometimes the film cracks from age, much more common than a break somewhere else.

I knew that, I actually repaired a few of the grid lines on this glass and on my other glass I had to reattach a tab with the FF. But looking at the tab it appeared solid with no sign of a broken connection. I swear when I checked for +12v I disconnected the wires and checked at the push on connectors tor st the wire but maybe I just checked at the tab IDK. Your idea worked easier though. And then I checked for +12v at the wire and it’s there, on the right side so that left side must be the ground. BTW I hate trying to fix Christmas lights- if they quit I just throw them away. Stupid bulbs where one burns out and the whole string goes down.

 

[Just Fishing]

so what's recommended for a roller cam break-in?
I was thinking standard Mobil 1 with maybe some zinc additive for good measure.

I have 10w30 VR1 racing oil on hand, but i think it's overkill for a roller...

 

[Tonyrodz]

so what's recommended for a roller cam break-in?
I was thinking standard Mobil 1 with maybe some zinc additive for good measure.

I have 10w30 VR1 racing oil on hand, but i think it's overkill for a roller...

I heard the VR1 is good for older pre roller motors. Bought it for my GN after I rebuilt the motor. Was gonna use it after 500 miles--but I never drove it. Supposedly has a higher level of zinc in it.

 

[Just Fishing]

I heard the VR1 is good for older pre roller motors. Bought it for my GN after I rebuilt the motor. Was gonna use it after 500 miles--but I never drove it. Supposedly has a higher level of zinc in it.

Yeah i use it in my C4 vette, flat tappet.
fantastic stuff, it's also a little expensive.

I had a open quart on my shelf, so i'm using it to pre lube stuff.

 

[George B]

I knew that, I actually repaired a few of the grid lines on this glass and on my other glass I had to reattach a tab with the FF. But looking at the tab it appeared solid with no sign of a broken connection. I swear when I checked for +12v I disconnected the wires and checked at the push on connectors tor st the wire but maybe I just checked at the tab IDK. Your idea worked easier though. And then I checked for +12v at the wire and it’s there, on the right side so that left side must be the ground. BTW I hate trying to fix Christmas lights- if they quit I just throw them away. Stupid bulbs where one burns out and the whole string goes down.

Is there a good ground at the other side? I get 14vdc at the tabs with the truck running and the defroster connected. You could check continuity to ground on that side.

 

[Rocket Man]

so what's recommended for a roller cam break-in?
I was thinking standard Mobil 1 with maybe some zinc additive for good measure.

I have 10w30 VR1 racing oil on hand, but i think it's overkill for a roller...

Nothing needed for a roller cam break in. Just whatever your normal oil is.