What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

I am not sure how I feel about the mounting arrangement. I am sort of OCD so covered buttons is an issue for me. I can access all the buttons on my receiver so that's ok but it is clutter up on the dash. I added a wireless charger to my console lid and lied it but it was wimpy. Plus I had to look back to see the phone and change songs or see my map. I could install this charger in the console if I wanted I guess. I think this setup is safer.

Just bite the bullet and go full wireless, I couldn't wait for android to go wireless, just start it up, phone auto connects waze automatically opens on the radio, music automatically starts playing, ready to rock, voice command as needed.

I was having the same issue with phone mounts, hated having one at all so I went with a new HU when wireless CarPlay became available and threw the mount in the trash. Combined with a wireless charger in my BR, I never plug a cable into my phone at all anymore. A full charge at night lasts all day and when I jump in the truck it connects automatically with CarPlay and I’m gtg. Phone stays in my pocket.

 

[Rocket Man]

Well yesterday while U was waiting for the drywall mud to cure I knocked out new rotors and pads on the front and flushed the DOT3.

Today my valve guide seal tool should arrive. Looks like its going to be 73* on Thursday, so I will use a sick day and get the valve springs done. Still need to grab one more fitting for my air compress tonight.

For the seals I just used an appropriate size socket, works great. Are you using viton seals? As for the compressor, are you talking about pressurizing the cylinders to keep the valves from dropping? It’s way easier to use the TDC method- I tried the pressure method and it was a PIA. You can do 2 cylinders, rotate the crank 90*, do 2 more, etc. Some people think if the cylinder is at TDC the valve can fall down the 1/2” or so and damage it but there’s still seals and oil so in reality it drops real slow so you can pull the keepers and you have plenty of time to grab the stem and lower it that distance slowly. It’s also peace of mind to hold it as it drops that little bit so you know it’s not going to disappear. LS1Howto has good info here. I’ve done it this way twice now. Cam, dual springs, seals with the heads on. Really handy with the ‘02 because supercharger.
https://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

 

[George B]

I was having the same issue with phone mounts, hated having one at all so I went with a new HU when wireless CarPlay became available and threw the mount in the trash. Combined with a wireless charger in my BR, I never plug a cable into my phone at all anymore. A full charge at night lasts all day and when I jump in the truck it connects automatically with CarPlay and I’m gtg. Phone stays in my pocket.

I did price that all out and feel it is just too rich for my blood right now. I still need a front diff and a BB tune is up on the list after that. And, the wife needs a different ride so...

 

[Rocket Man]

I did price that all out and feel it is just too rich for my blood right now. I still need a front diff and a BB tune is up on the list after that. And, the wife needs a different ride so...

Add it to your list for a someday type of thing. It’s well worth it.

 

[1BADI5]

For the seals I just used an appropriate size socket, works great. Are you using viton seals? As for the compressor, are you talking about pressurizing the cylinders to keep the valves from dropping? It’s way easier to use the TDC method- I tried the pressure method and it was a PIA. You can do 2 cylinders, rotate the crank 90*, do 2 more, etc. Some people think if the cylinder is at TDC the valve can fall down the 1/2” or so and damage it but there’s still seals and oil so in reality it drops real slow so you can pull the keepers and you have plenty of time to grab the stem and lower it that distance slowly. It’s also peace of mind to hold it as it drops that little bit so you know it’s not going to disappear. LS1Howto has good info here. I’ve done it this way twice now. Cam, dual springs, seals with the heads on. Really handy with the ‘02 because supercharger.
https://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

Yes, I'm going to use the compressor as I have before, 90psi and good to go.

After 30+ years of wrenching, I use the right tool for the job. I will not have time to F' around if I damage a valve guide seal. This really the only LS specific tool I don't have on hand at home, so its well with the $19 and will be used again.

As far as the seals go, they're the ones that came with my BTR spring kit.

 

[08z71bgm]

@Rocket Man i definitely concur with the wheel speed sensor. The lights went away and came back as soon as I pulled away. I need to check which one. Good call

 

[Just Fishing]

So converters for the 6l80
Looking over circle d's stuff,
I see a good looking option for under 1k
https://www.circledspecialties.com/gm-300mm-hp-6l90-ls-torque-converter-2
states a twin disk lockup


And then the rest appears to be over 1k
Like this option with triple disk selected is over 1300
https://www.circledspecialties.com/6l80e-pro-series-265mm

I suspect it's overkill for my intended use.


What one is everyone buying?

 

[ls1frc]

 

[gooffeyguy]

Have you tried it by leaving from idle and not 2k?

Reason I ask is that I've found when launching automatics at the drag strip launching from idle allows the converter to flash and gives a quicker time

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[ls1frc]

Have you tried it by leaving from idle and not 2k?

Reason I ask is that I've found when launching automatics at the drag strip launching from idle allows the converter to flash and gives a quicker time

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Have not but I will try this.