What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

Link to gear?

there are slightly cheaper ones (same part) but I didn't want to wait for it to come from china for a month

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[iamdub]

there are slightly cheaper ones (same part) but I didn't want to wait for it to come from china for a month

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Thank ya!

I checked Grüven's site to compare and saw this. Whatcha think? :

*** You Cannot Just Install a Metal Gear Without Also Changing The Motor To The GruvenParts INTERNALLY GROUNDED MOTOR ! You Will Short Out the Body Control Module. All Of Our Kits Come With New Motors Which Are Internally Grounded and Work With Metal Gears - So Don't Just Replace the Gear, You Must Replace Both Gear AND Motor When Going to Metal !!! ***

 

[08z71bgm]

There are two Sunoco stations near me that don't always deliver from the pump what's advertised. More times than I can count they dispensed 87 instead of E30 or E15 or E85. The Racetrac's are more expensive but at least you get what it says on the pump! Bought a tester to take a sample from my fuel rail so see if it jives with the virtual sensor and they are usually very close if not spot on.

On the other hand, it can take a while to get to full strength if there's any significant amount of gasoline left aboard. Here's my log show such:

View attachment 343908

Yeah it sucks ghat there is no standard anymore. They all suck. You expect one thing and get another. The truck definitely doesn’t have any gas left in it. Been going to Sunoco that was a Valero before and a Valero way out east on Thursday’s. Haven’t gone to the one across from a speed shop need me yet. It’s supposedly 70+

 

[Rocket Man]

Yeah it sucks ghat there is no standard anymore. They all suck. You expect one thing and get another. The truck definitely doesn’t have any gas left in it. Been going to Sunoco that was a Valero before and a Valero way out east on Thursday’s. Haven’t gone to the one across from a speed shop need me yet. It’s supposedly 70+

Never heard of either of those.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thank ya!

I checked Grüven's site to compare and saw this. Whatcha think? :

*** You Cannot Just Install a Metal Gear Without Also Changing The Motor To The GruvenParts INTERNALLY GROUNDED MOTOR ! You Will Short Out the Body Control Module. All Of Our Kits Come With New Motors Which Are Internally Grounded and Work With Metal Gears - So Don't Just Replace the Gear, You Must Replace Both Gear AND Motor When Going to Metal !!! ***

hmmmmmmmm, I wonder if that is my issue (I somehow doubt it) and I just put everything away, but I will try it one more time with the plastic gear again
aaannnd, f-uck now it works again.
the mirror housing and gearing is grounded to the frame so i guess since it reverse's polarity on the motor with the metal gear inside it grounds out, either that or the plastic gear just moves easier, I did apply finger pressure to the motor outside of the housing and it had more power one direction than the other, when you apply pressure to the motor it automatically stops assuming it has reached the end of the gear.

 

[Doubeleive]

I think something had jammed up from last rebuild, I pulled out a small metal ring and a 0-ring disappeared somewhere in the process of taking it apart and putting it back together several times, works again now with the old plastic gear I had replaced, o'well mission accomplished either way.

 

[Just Fishing]

Got my ECM fault cleared, looks like it was something in one of the tunes i prepared.
Switched to the 6.2 fueling tune and I was able to go through a nice break-in cycle.

I also noticed my MAP sensor is not reading correctly in hptuners.
Like it shows RPM, but no change on the MAP # when driving.
I would expect that to change with the vac in the manifold...

so i'm sure there is something wrong there as well...

 

[08z71bgm]

Got my ECM fault cleared, looks like it was something in one of the tunes i prepared.
Switched to the 6.2 fueling tune and I was able to go through a nice break-in cycle.

I also noticed my MAP sensor is not reading correctly in hptuners.
Like it shows RPM, but no change on the MAP # when driving.
I would expect that to change with the vac in the manifold...

so i'm sure there is something wrong there as well...

Open a graph boost from -30 0 and 30 use the sensor under math for boost. It’ll show -1x to 0 if your map sensor is working correctly

 

[Just Fishing]

Rotated the tires.

While I had it all up on jackstands I looked more in depth for the oil leak. I'm 90% sure it's coming from the oil cooler line block on the side of the pan.

Now debating if I should just replace the gasket or replace the entire line set. They're like $95. Mine has some black residue gunk up where they transition from hard to rubber near the power steering reservoir. Not sure it they're seeping or it's from something else.

Also, whichever one I do, can I just unbolt the front driveshaft U-joints and let it hang to get room to get to that oil cooler line block?

That's what i did.

I had it just sitting there with the axle out.

And should you wish to remove the axle, remove the cross member.
Then use tie downs to hold the cv shafts in a compressed state.
Makes the job easy.

Not that you need to remove the front axle for the job.

 

[Just Fishing]

Window unit air conditioner seal from Lowe's or Home Depot. There are different sizes, but I think I used the 2 1/4" one. I can tell you- it works. When idling, my IATs show a max of 3° over ambient. When driving, I might be 1° over.



View attachment 343903

I need to try this.
My iat temps get pretty high.