What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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wsteele

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Replaced the driver's side valve cover on my 2014 Tahoe PPV. Only to discover it already had the new valve cover.

At least it was as easy as the videos showed.

This makes me wonder if the AFM diverter has also been changed. I'm not going to open up the oil pan just to look.
The AFM deflector will be there as well.
 

89Suburban

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Window switch zoomed in
View attachment 347542

@89Suburban

more,


Power Windows Description and Operation
Power Window System Components
The power window system consists of the following components:

• Driver Door Switch (DDS)

• Passenger Door Switch (PDS)

• Body Control Module (BCM)

• Rear door power window switches

• Power window motors in each of the doors (circuit breaker protected)

Power Window System Controls
The power window system will operate anytime the retained accessory power (RAP) system is active or when the ignition switch is in the ACCY or ON position.

The driver and passenger door lock and side window switches are integrated control module switch assemblies. The driver door switch (DDS) driver and front passenger window switches are normally open, 3 position rocker type switches, with detents for up, down, and express down. The DDS rear passenger window switches are normally open, 2 position rocker type switches, with detents for up and down. The DDS rear window lockout switch is a push button type switch that provides an active signal to the DDS whenever pressed. Whenever the rear window lockout switch is pressed the DDS will activate or deactivate the rear window lockout function depending on the current state, and illuminate the switch indicator whenever the function is active.

The passenger door switch (PDS) contains a single power window switch that is an integral component. Closing of this normally open, rocker switch provides the PDS with a request for the front passenger power window operation. The switch for the front passenger window has 3 positions Up, Down and Express Down. Each of these switch positions is a direct input to the PDS.

The rear passenger door power window switches are normally open, 2 position rocker type switches, with detents for up and down. Each switch incorporates up and down window motor relays that can be energized by the rocker switch or through body control module (BCM) control circuits.

Driver Power Window Operation
The switch for the driver power window has 3 positions Up, Down and Express Down and its position is a direct input into the driver door switch (DDS). Upon receiving a request for power window operation (switch activation), the DDS supplies voltage to the power window motor left front up or down circuit and grounds the opposite and the power window motor runs to move the window up or down.

Front Passenger Power Window Operation
The switch for the front passenger power window has 3 positions Up, Down and Express Down, and its position is a direct input into the passenger door switch (PDS). Upon receiving a request for power window operation (switch activation), the PDS supplies voltage to the power window motor right front up or down circuit and grounds the opposite and the power window motor runs to drive the window up or down.

The front passenger power window can also be operated from the driver door switch (DDS). The front passenger window switch on the DDS has 3 positions Up, Down and Express Down and its position is a direct input into the DDS. Upon receiving a request for front passenger power window operation, the DDS transmits a GMLAN message indicating the changed switch position. When the PDS receives this message, the PDS supplies voltage to the power window motor right front up or down circuit and grounds the opposite and the power window motor runs to move the window up or down.

Rear Passenger Power Window Operation
The rear passenger power window switches are supplied battery voltage through 25A circuit breakers in the IP fuse panel. The rear door window switch up and down relays control power and ground to the window motors through the motor control circuits. The rear window switch relays can be energized by the integrated rocker switch or by the body control module (BCM) through the up and down signal circuits. While a rear window switch is in an inactive state both of the window motor control circuits are grounded through the up and down relays. When an up or down relay is energized the battery supply circuit is closed to the corresponding motor control circuit while the other control circuit remains grounded through the de-energized relay. The BCM supplies the rocker switches with accessory/retained accessory power (RAP) voltage through the lockout control circuit while the lockout function is inactive. The supply side of all the window up and down relays receive voltage through the battery voltage supply circuit and the lt door or rt door circuit breakers respectively.

The rear passenger power windows can also be operated from the driver door switch (DDS) through a GMLAN message to the BCM. The rear passenger window switches on the DDS have 2 positions Up and Down their position is a direct input into the DDS. When the BCM receives a command to operate a rear window up or down the appropriate signal circuit is used to energize the up or down relay in the rear door window switch.

Rear Power Window Lockout Operation
NOTE: Power window lockout switch disables REAR passenger window switches only and has no effect on the operation of the FRONT passenger window switch.

The rear window lockout function is operated from the driver door switch (DDS) through a GMLAN message to the body control module (BCM). When the BCM receives an active lockout command, the rear door power window switches are disabled. The lockout control circuit from the BCM supplies the accessory/retained accessory power (RAP) voltage to the rear window switches while the lockout function is inactive and removes the supply voltage to activate the function. Once activated, the lockout feature will remain in effect until the ignition switch is cycled or the DDS receives another power window lockout switch activation.


I have the whole shop manual chapter on window diagnostics in PDF (including all the stuff JF just posted, diagrams, etc.), I can send you if that will be helpful?



Much appreciated gents.
 

alpha_omega

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@swathdiver I’m not sure if it was you or someone else who was asking about which heat wrap and wire loom seems to work best.
This stuff is by far not the cheapest, but damn does it look purdy. Buy once, cry once? I would suggest some high temp silicone tape as well. Don’t expect to patch a boat or wrap Christmas presents with it, but boy howdy does this stuff stick to itself. Literally adheres to nothing…except itself. Like roofing ice and water shield…only exactly the opposite. Wait, no, that’s not right either, because I&W sticks to itself some WAY worse than others. Ignore that terrible analogy. Now shut up monkey, play me a song and post some pictures!

ACB8A11C-C5E5-4ACD-9116-53A77ED94B1B.jpeg
 

89Suburban

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@swathdiver I’m not sure if it was you or someone else who was asking about which heat wrap and wire loom seems to work best.
This stuff is by far not the cheapest, but damn does it look purdy. Buy once, cry once? I would suggest some high temp silicone tape as well. Don’t expect to patch a boat or wrap Christmas presents with it, but boy howdy does this stuff stick to itself. Literally adheres to nothing…except itself. Like roofing ice and water shield…only exactly the opposite. Wait, no, that’s not right either, because I&W sticks to itself some WAY worse than others. Ignore that terrible analogy. Now shut up monkey, play me a song and post some pictures!

View attachment 347548


What's that there Stihl tool thingy?
 

Rocket Man

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@swathdiver I’m not sure if it was you or someone else who was asking about which heat wrap and wire loom seems to work best.
This stuff is by far not the cheapest, but damn does it look purdy. Buy once, cry once? I would suggest some high temp silicone tape as well. Don’t expect to patch a boat or wrap Christmas presents with it, but boy howdy does this stuff stick to itself. Literally adheres to nothing…except itself. Like roofing ice and water shield…only exactly the opposite. Wait, no, that’s not right either, because I&W sticks to itself some WAY worse than others. Ignore that terrible analogy. Now shut up monkey, play me a song and post some pictures!

View attachment 347548
Any installed pics?
 

swathdiver

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@swathdiver I’m not sure if it was you or someone else who was asking about which heat wrap and wire loom seems to work best.
This stuff is by far not the cheapest, but damn does it look purdy. Buy once, cry once? I would suggest some high temp silicone tape as well. Don’t expect to patch a boat or wrap Christmas presents with it, but boy howdy does this stuff stick to itself. Literally adheres to nothing…except itself. Like roofing ice and water shield…only exactly the opposite. Wait, no, that’s not right either, because I&W sticks to itself some WAY worse than others. Ignore that terrible analogy. Now shut up monkey, play me a song and post some pictures!

View attachment 347548
Thanks! Yeah, the loom in the engine bay is crumbling and needs to be replaced. Waiting for cooler weather before that project gets tackled but thanks for the photo, will save it and check it out!
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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For some reason, the 3 years I've had this thing, I put the tow mirrors on it so I could actually see around trailers behind me, and those mirrors have built-in turn signals, and the doors have the turn signal wiring and it also, but there's nothing going from the BCM out to the connector in the door jamb. And I eventually need to figure out where to tap into that so that I only get the turn signal and don't come on when I hit the brakes like a trailer typically does... That's all I could find on either fuse block was wires that would also come on with the brake pedal.
 

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