What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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89Suburban

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Ok again thanks to @Just Fishing and @wsteele .


SO after diagnosis the drivers door window switch is failed. And from what I understand this is not just a plug and play replacement part and the replacement needs to be programmed? On top of hard to find in stock locally. Fhuck.


Any experience and guidance here would be appreciated.
 

Rocket Man

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That is what I love about the Milwaukee. Its track hooks to the underside of your hood (or wherever you’re working - I had it underneath while working on the rear suspension). It rotates, slides along the track, and can also be removed from the track and hung up by the metal hook on the end of it.

View attachment 347639View attachment 347640View attachment 347641

Oh yeh, the hook swivels and pivots as well and locks in position. Makes it much easier to hook onto something one handed or trying to position the light once hooked. Any light with a stationary hook can sometimes make positioning the light a difficult task.
That Milwaukee is good stuff. I just can’t spend $250 on a light. If I had other cordless stuff of theirs I might buy it but my cordless stuff is Rigid. The hook on my light folds away and swivels too.
 

Rocket Man

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Ok again thanks to @Just Fishing and @wsteele .


SO after diagnosis the drivers door window switch is failed. And from what I understand this is not just a plug and play replacement part and the replacement needs to be programmed? On top of hard to find in stock locally. Fhuck.


Any experience and guidance here would be appreciated.
Did you take it apart and clean the contacts? I use an eraser on the copper pads and a q-tip with alcohol on the rubber pieces. That’s usually what happens is they get contaminated and the switch doesn’t make contact. Cleaning fixes them 90% of the time. Otherwise, yes it has to be programmed using a Tech2 so your vehicle options are recognized.
 

89Suburban

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Did you take it apart and clean the contacts? I use an eraser on the copper pads and a q-tip with alcohol on the rubber pieces. That’s usually what happens is they get contaminated and the switch doesn’t make contact. Cleaning fixes them 90% of the time. Otherwise, yes it has to be programmed using a Tech2 so your vehicle options are recognized.
I already did the contact clean out project a few weeks ago. I also pulled the switch apart again, just plugged the circuit board in itself, and used a piece of brass wire to manually test the contact points and all windows work except the l/f. I also just used jumper wires on the harness plug for the regulator and it goes up and down fine. So I pissed away 75 bucks on a new regulator. which will be going in anyway. So there is something definitely wrong with the switch's circuit board.

Just had my daughter's wedding, got hit for $900 for the r/f suspension repairs, and now this kick in the nuts. Fhuck.
 

89Suburban

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Here I marked the contacts that control up/down and express down. And just a pic of where the regulator harness plugs in. It’s those 6 big prongs.

FBAD5165-E4EC-41B2-AFD6-E93B8BA62A7A.jpeg588451DC-7A30-4558-941B-EA1CBA5BF8A3.jpeg8C38BB1C-A499-4A2D-8AAA-34E53645D26B.jpeg
 

89Suburban

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I'm gonna have to MacGuyver a temp switch just for the f/l window until I get the replacement switch installed and then get it programmed...
 

Rocket Man

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I'm gonna have to MacGuyver a temp switch just for the f/l window until I get the replacement switch installed and then get it programmed...
You don’t have a Tech2 do you? If not, a dealer can do it for a fee. Sucks.
 

CaptainAmerica1

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Well if it was working fine before you messed with it, and now you’re having problems…. Maybe take another look at what you messed with to Cause the problem?… just a thought…..
 

1BADI5

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Brackets for my ZR1 calipers came in........ if all goes right I will be installing them next weekend.

Just waiting on pads, banjo bolts and crush washers. I need to do a mock up tomorrow to ensure the brackets clear everything on the Belltech spindles.
 

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