What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

BOLET 407 Pieces SAE Universal O-Ring Kit, Nitrile Rubber O Rings Assortment Set of 32 USA Standard Sizes, Rubber Gasket for Faucet, Professional Plumbing, Automotive, Mechanic - - Amazon.com

BOLET 407 Pieces SAE Universal O-Ring Kit, Nitrile Rubber O Rings Assortment Set of 32 USA Standard Sizes, Rubber Gasket for Faucet, Professional Plumbing, Automotive, Mechanic - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Found one that fit perfectly at the top.

Does your rocker cover have 1 or 2 locking tabs? BTW thanks for peer pressuring me into buying a few hundred o-rings that I never knew I needed.

 

[Just Fishing]

Does your rocker cover have 1 or 2 locking tabs? BTW thanks for peer pressuring me into buying a few hundred o-rings that I never knew I needed.

iirc it's a two, but I could be wrong.

and I never had an issue until i replaced the silly fill neck.
clicked in fine, just fit loosely.

 

[Doubeleive]

That was not part of the initial post! Haha. It’s actually my “I’m too old for this $hi+ paddle wheel”. It’s part of my Stihl Kombi system. I actually use it upside down to move rocks back into the road each spring after the snowplow trucks ****** my frontage, and again in the fall after they cut shoulders. It’s also handy each time we get a heavy rain. After a couple good storms I find myself moving a couple hundred pounds of sand and gravel that wash down to the low spot in my driveway. Pretty slick tool. Not for those with a weak core, but sure beat the hell out of a gravel rake or garden rake any day of the week.

https://m.stihlusa.com/products/multi-task-tools/kombisystem-attachments/kwpwrswp/

the mirror turn signal comes from the door switch, there are 2 harness from the door switch to the mirror. one of those wires is the turn signal, not sure which color I only know the puddle light wire is orange/black. you could just connect a meter and probe the harness with the turn signal on. connect the meter negative to any ground and use the positive wire to probe the mirror wire harness there is only about 8-10 wires per harness shouldn't be hard to figure out which one it is.
GM designed these truck's with a high speed serial lan and made each module programmable to then split the signal from each module into different functions, this was done supposedly to save on wiring. so that is why you don't have a turn signal lead going to the door, it's a digital signal from the bcm to the door switch, then it comes out analog from the door switch.
when you find the signal wire on the mirror harness that will be your positive, the ground from your led can just go anywhere on the door frame. you won't get any error messages or issue's doing this but the tech2 will pick it up as a "short to ground on the door module" it's just a heads up so you know what it is if troubleshooting something in the future

 

[alpha_omega]

Yes i do,
it's really noticeable when cold.
lighter when hot, but still there.

I also get some light rattling on a cold startup, but it's really barley noticeable.

I'm half way tempted to try the spacers out first, then the pushrods...

I would have thought you had broken manifold/bolts from the way you describe the sound and when it’s the most noticeable.
When it comes time, I’ll have to remember this excuse to tell my wife why I’m working on the Denali.

 

[alpha_omega]

the mirror turn signal comes from the door switch, there are 2 harness from the door switch to the mirror. one of those wires is the turn signal, not sure which color I only know the puddle light wire is orange/black. you could just connect a meter and probe the harness with the turn signal on. connect the meter negative to any ground and use the positive wire to probe the mirror wire harness there is only about 8-10 wires per harness shouldn't be hard to figure out which one it is.
GM designed these truck's with a high speed serial lan and made each module programmable to then split the signal from each module into different functions, this was done supposedly to save on wiring. so that is why you don't have a turn signal lead going to the door, it's a digital signal from the bcm to the door switch, then it comes out analog from the door switch.
when you find the signal wire on the mirror harness that will be your positive, the ground from your led can just go anywhere on the door frame. you won't get any error messages or issue's doing this but the tech2 will pick it up as a "short to ground on the door module" it's just a heads up so you know what it is if troubleshooting something in the future

Very interesting. Thank you for that but of info. I’m used to the old GM wiring method, so if I had an issue I would have been digging out the power probe and Tech2, but still scratching my head wondering WTF?
Is there a way around the “short to ground” error, or is the fix similar to using a relay/resistor/switch when upgrading headlights to LED?

 

[Just Fishing]

I had my rear hatch refuse to open last night.
I hooked up the tech2, and found i could not even command it open.

Monitored the switch and it almost looked like that while it was commanded to open, the command to the rear never happened.

So o disconnected the battery for a min, and all is good... lol

 

[alpha_omega]

Here I marked the contacts that control up/down and express down. And just a pic of where the regulator harness plugs in. It’s those 6 big prongs.

View attachment 347664

Ok guys….here’s one for you. Can you program the window switches so they all work auto up / auto down like the drivers window? I thought this was a dumb feature not to have. My wife’s old Toyota RAV4 had auto on all of the windows as did my uncles 04’ GX470 (I almost wrote GSX on accident and that might have confused some of you as to why my uncle had windows on his rotch-crocket).
Anyways…I know on some vehicles the actual window switch mechanism is different and do not require programming, so I wasn’t sure if this idea is just me nitpicking or is feasible.

 

[alpha_omega]

Step i missed when i went with the AFR heads!

Made me feel better about making the pita switch to the longer pushrod.

I'm 48% done now.

And those spacers are sorta a pita to center perfectly.
I'm sure i'll find some clearance issues when putting the plastic cover back on.

View attachment 347695

Going with that setup, did it require you to buy two sets of gaskets to make that “spacer sandwich” or did it come with a set? Not saying that whatever gasket that comes with them is any good, but I wasn’t sure if one was built into it or not.

 

[alpha_omega]

I'd be happy just to have a working drivers side window and not the rest, or the door locks or mirrors for that matter. If I could plug and play a new unit just to have that one working to get me by for now i'd be so relieved.

Just spin it 180 and all should be good. Haha!

 

[pwtr02ss]

What extra o-ring did you use?

He repurposed his c*ck ring. Keeps the filler tube extra stiff