What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

got the thrust bearing fully installed today.
Managed to seat that baby from under the truck, pan off and with a dead blow.

endplay successfully checked 3x, and a 4th after final torque.
Final check was just shy of .003 (probably like .0028).

now i need to unbolt the converter, double check the converter install depth, and see if i can't see how far that baby seats into the end of the crank.

Pretty much chasing my tail to figure out wtf i did wrong.


Only thing i can think of right now, the harmonic balancer was seated a bit too far.
meaning the belts were pulling on the crank a little, against the thrust bearing.

I doubt it was enough to matter, but I'm going try fixing that again.
I'm Glad i got the ARP balancer bolt when i built the engine.

Sounds like some pretty good progress.
I still keep telling myself just to get an iron block but I really want an LC9 to build and plop in when the time comes and I know it will be stupid expensive, but probably going to use ARP everything, ease of use goes a long way with me.

 

[Just Fishing]

Sounds like some pretty good progress.
I still keep telling myself just to get an iron block but I really want an LC9 to build and plop in when the time comes and I know it will be stupid expensive, but probably going to use ARP everything, ease of use goes a long way with me.

If you do arp, get the 6pt bolts.
the 12 pt bolts are pretty
but who the hell uses 12 point sockets?!

I have the 12pt balancer bolt, however it was all i could get at the time.
27mm 12pt socket is needed.
and since i remove with an impact...

lost my 27mm socket i used to assemble the engine, probably rolled under a shelf or a tool box.
amazon'd a craftsman yesterday, next day delivery!

stuck that sucker on the end of my good impact, got it removed!
if the socket breaks, i think it's Lowes now right?

 

[wsteele]

Corn has been hovering around 60-65% here for a while... Filled up this morning, apparently it was only 25%ish...wtf

Drove all the way to work like that and then back home and literally backing into my parking spot check engine light came on, lean code.
I know it's hot, but I thought it seemed a little more sluggish than usual.
Still need to dig in there and figure out why the driver side is always leaner than the passenger side.

Your virtual Ethanol sensor might be off. If the E content of the gas is higher than the sensor calculates, the engine will run lean, at least when in open loop. In closed loop it shouldn't matter as the O2 sensors will report the lean condition and richen things up. But that may be why your trims look so high.

Get a bottle tester like the one linked below. It works great to show you exactly what you are pumping into your tank or what is running through your fuel rail, depending on how you sample it. It eliminates the guess work.

If your virtual sensor is off, it could mean new fuel pump time. Maybe hook up with someone near you who has a Tech 2 and check out your fuel pump trims, pressures, etc. Ken (@kbuskill) replaced his pump and his virtual sensor cleared right up (although his sensor was erring on the other side if memory serves).

Bottle tester: https://www.amazon.com/Etched-Ethan...l+content+bottle+tester&qid=1631321031&sr=8-7

But then again, if one bank is running leaner than the other, might be something altogether different.

 

[Bill 1960]

She got high today.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Your virtual Ethanol sensor might be off. If the E content of the gas is higher than the sensor calculates, the engine will run lean, at least when in open loop. In closed loop it shouldn't matter as the O2 sensors will report the lean condition and richen things up. But that may be why your trims look so high.

Get a bottle tester like the one linked below. It works great to show you exactly what you are pumping into your tank or what is running through your fuel rail, depending on how you sample it. It eliminates the guess work.

If your virtual sensor is off, it could mean new fuel pump time. Maybe hook up with someone near you who has a Tech 2 and check out your fuel pump trims, pressures, etc. Ken (@kbuskill) replaced his pump and his virtual sensor cleared right up (although his sensor was erring on the other side if memory serves).

Bottle tester: https://www.amazon.com/Etched-Ethan...l+content+bottle+tester&qid=1631321031&sr=8-7

But then again, if one bank is running leaner than the other, might be something altogether different.

Actually just got a tech2 a month or two ago but haven't tried using it yet.
I was also thinking fuel pump as a possibility, which wouldn't be great timing, but I would definitely throw some nice big fancy pumps in there if I did need to replace it, always prepping this thing as much as I can for that dang Whipple.
Yeah, driver side has always been a little bit leaner than passenger side. For the most part by about 3% or so.
And I do have new oxygen sensors in there but it didn't really change anything other than getting rid of the occasional "O2 sensor delayed response-lean to rich bank 2"
I probably should check things on the intake side, vacuum hoses and whatnot.
Maybe even a leaking exhaust gasket or something. Give it a good once over for sure.

...I still need to put the wideband in, I got in a hurry that day and welded the bung a little offset from the hole I put in the pipe, so I have to cut the white pipe to drop the driver side down clean it up to where I can get the sensor to thread in and then weld it all back together.
If I had another bone it would probably be a good idea to check bank too also, but that might have to be down the road sometime.

On another note, I never did recalibrate the maf on gasoline like I should have.
I stopped throwing codes after I changed the O2 sensors and kind of forgot about it.

Wish I hadn't just filled up the tank, I could have fixed the maf tonight.
Also need to get the tires rebalanced in the morning.

 

[Just Fishing]

Decided to pull both rod caps that share the thrust bearing oil path.
I had pulled both rod caps in front of the thrust bearing to check them.
noticed the one bearing that shared the same oil path had a little piece of grit in there, and the upper part of the bearing showed some "polishing" where the coating was nearly worn off.
The rod that didn't share that oil path was not nearly as bad.

I did a trick I learned last night via youtube to measure the thickness of the curved bearings using a ball bearing to get a solid reading on the curved surface.
the little flat sided ball bearings from my AC compressor fit the bill perfectly!
Just measure the ball bearing, and Zero the calipers.
then measure away!

No measurable noticeable thickness difference, but i decided to just flip the uppers with the lowers on those two rods.



Did some measurements of the rod bolts, interesting but only one of the bolts showed longer than the new ones i bought.
(I got 4 new to replace the two i disassembled)

So i opted to just replace the longer bolt on each rod with a new one.

I have now gone through 3, and i have one bolt left!

So I'm thinking I'll pull a random rod end to check.

I'm also tempted to pull another main to compare to the one that failed.
...Since i have new mains on hand and all...

 

[Sparksalot]

She got high today.

How many of the passes did you get?

how rough are those trails really?

 

[Bill 1960]

How many of the passes did you get?

how rough are those trails really?

I haven’t been counting, actually. Probably a half dozen or so recently. We’ve been coming out here for decades, so I don’t really keep score anymore.

Trail conditions vary all the time, generally smoother in the spring right after the dozers have plowed. This late in the summer there’s a lot of rocks and ruts. But any stock 4x4 could do 80% of them if carefully driven.

I do see a lot more wear on the trails than we used to. Side by sides are popular everywhere now and they travel fast and invite a lot of aggressive driving.

 

[Just Fishing]

Pulled the converter bolts and re-checked the spacing.
Right in spec, about .128

What i don't recall checking was how much space i had left in the snout of the crank.
but i'm sure it's also in spec.

Maybe that one time i was pretty sure i sucked the pan dry, while i had the straight 30 weight break-in oil in there...

Or it is that belt alignment on the front of the engine...

I'm thinking about checking the hardware store tomorrow, maybe i'll be able to score some thin washers to use as little spacers for the converter, maybe suck it out a little from the crank end?

And i did grease the crank snout with some high grade marine grade grease (stuff i use for my del-alum-bushings that the vette has).


also, wtf!




I think i'm going to do that "Smudging" thing to the tahoe for good measure.

Also i bet she would be a fun fk.
Might stalk ya and try some weird ass stuff when you try and run...

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Exercise those demons!