What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[gooffeyguy]

Gorilla or Duct tape would probably work too, lol

Or just get mats that work like they're supposed to

 

[iamdub]

I’d bet you can use an Eagle Klaw to hold the side walls up as well as on the bottom to keep them from sliding around.

Possibly. I keep forgetting about them. I just don't wanna invest much of anything, money or labor, into these mats. A few years ago, I tried softening them with a heat gun to reshape the walls flexed outward. This seemed to have helped a lot, but the mat was pushed out of shape and bent again with Jenn driving it. I never bothered to reshape them again and secure them in place.

 

[George B]

I’d bet you can use an Eagle Klaw to hold the side walls up as well as on the bottom to keep them from sliding around.

Yes, they would work. I had some and sent them back only because they wouldn’t work in the weather tech hold down location.
I ended up grinding the spikes off the wethertech retainers and attaching them through the carpet with plastic screws and washers.

 

[89Suburban]

Yes, they would work. I had some and sent them back only because they wouldn’t work in the weather tech hold down location.
I ended up grinding the spikes off the wethertech retainers and attaching them through the carpet with plastic screws and washers.

Good trick!

 

[Charlie207]

Swapped wheels and snow tires from my outgoing Nissan Armada onto my Yukon. They share the same bolt pattern, so it was only a two beer job in the snow. Having many jacks makes it easier.

Nissan is going to the recycler as soon as I can schedule it with AAA.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Took a lot longer than anticipated. But got the 14 bolts in and drove it home finally.
Unfortunately I do need to adjust the dust covers, because the wrecking yard and the ever-loving crud out of them, and the driver side is for sure rubbing somewhere when I drive, and the passenger side I heard squeak on the highway next to k rail, but not constantly.

I'll have to disassemble the 10 bolt at a later date and see what actually happened.

It's ridiculous how much of that stuff swaps over.
From what I had read, I was going to need some sort of conversion u-jointd. This was not the case. I could have just pulled the straps off the 10 bolt, left the U-joint in the drive shaft and used those same straps and U-joint right back in the 14 bolt.
So a quick trip to the auto parts store to grab a Spicer 1350, and reuse the stock straps, and it's smooth as silk.
The only thing that needed any sort of change, was the spot the brake lines mount on the diff bracket.

But that was easily Bent by hand and bolted right up.

 

[Rocket Man]

Took a lot longer than anticipated. But got the 14 bolts in and drove it home finally.
Unfortunately I do need to adjust the dust covers, because the wrecking yard and the ever-loving crud out of them, and the driver side is for sure rubbing somewhere when I drive, and the passenger side I heard squeak on the highway next to k rail, but not constantly.

I'll have to disassemble the 10 bolt at a later date and see what actually happened.

It's ridiculous how much of that stuff swaps over.
From what I had read, I was going to need some sort of conversion u-jointd. This was not the case. I could have just pulled the straps off the 10 bolt, left the U-joint in the drive shaft and used those same straps and U-joint right back in the 14 bolt.
So a quick trip to the auto parts store to grab a Spicer 1350, and reuse the stock straps, and it's smooth as silk.
The only thing that needed any sort of change, was the spot the brake lines mount on the diff bracket.

But that was easily Bent by hand and bolted right up.

I would replace those straps with new ones ASAP. You’re supposed to mark them when you remove them if you’re going to reuse them on the same u-joints and if you replace the u-joints you’re supposed to replace the straps because they conform to the shape of the cups and if they don’t go back the exact same way they get weakened. I had one break on me and it almost took out the oil pan ( front drive shaft) Of course I’m throwing down a bit more HP but better safe than sorry.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I would replace those straps with new ones ASAP. You’re supposed to mark them when you remove them if you’re going to reuse them on the same u-joints and if you replace the u-joints you’re supposed to replace the straps because they conform to the shape of the cups and if they don’t go back the exact same way they get weakened. I had one break on me and it almost took out the oil pan ( front drive shaft) Of course I’m throwing down a bit more HP but better safe than sorry.

Yeah, I plan to.
I still have some other things I want to go through and make sure is all good before I put it through its paces.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yeah, I plan to.
I still have some other things I want to go through and make sure is all good before I put it through its paces.

Mine broke on the first good romp of the throttle. I hadn’t gone 1/16 of a mile. In other words, don’t wait. A flopping driveline caused a lot of damage. Luckily I was only going about 30.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Did an oil change today. While laying under it looking at things i discovered the source of my suspension clunk...BOTH sway bar end links are GONE haha. Whoops.