What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[gooffeyguy]

To go with that thought, what is the thing with the rubber gizmos on the oil and transmission cooler lines going into the radiator?

Dirty pair are thecopcar. Off road donchaknow. Clean ones are similar on theothertwin.

Rubber gizmos? Are you talking about the plastic covers that go over the spring clips that hold those lines in?

 

[Doubeleive]

To go with that thought, what is the thing with the rubber gizmos on the oil and transmission cooler lines going into the radiator?

Dirty pair are thecopcar. Off road donchaknow. Clean ones are similar on theothertwin.

those are just protectors so the c clip under them can't be accidentally knocked off, just pull on them and they slide back on the tube

 

[Sparksalot]

Gotcha. I used to old school flare nuts on tubing.

 

[iamdub]

If you're good at welding and have the right equipment you can weld a bead around the pipe

That thought crossed my mind. But it's two small pipes under the cowl and next to the firewall. And they're aluminum. I have a spool gun for my MIG welder, but it's definitely not ideal for that.

The pipe is 1/2" ID (or OD?). I'm thinking of modifying a large pair of needle-nose pliers to crimp a bead into it.

 

[iamdub]

More good news. Happy New Year Paw Paw.

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What is that plug out of? Doesn't look like an engine oil plug. Them shiny metal chunks look like timing sprocket teeth.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Transfer case?

 

[Rocket Man]

More good news. Happy New Year Paw Paw.

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Dammit. What’s that plug out of? Front diff?

 

[Doubeleive]

Gotcha. I used to old school flare nuts on tubing.

all you have to do is take the clip off and the tube slides right out, it's a quick release. just like the gas cylinders for the hatch & glass a new radiator will come with new clips.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Do with it? Limped home 500 miles from Big Bend with a burst upper tank on the radiator. A 2.5" rupture near the top, so the engine still had coolant the whole time.

First I had to limp 25 miles out of the desert to try and patch it with JB Weld. Worked decently, but I couldn't reach the entire rupture, so it seeped all the way back.

Cold Case, I'm about to call...

Do it. Can't go wrong with it. It really works so much better than stock too.

 

[gooffeyguy]

That thought crossed my mind. But it's two small pipes under the cowl and next to the firewall. And they're aluminum. I have a spool gun for my MIG welder, but it's definitely not ideal for that.

The pipe is 1/2" ID (or OD?). I'm thinking of modifying a large pair of needle-nose pliers to crimp a bead into it.

If you're talking about the stock hardlines that run to the rear heater core, they should have a barb already on them. That's how they stay in the factory quick connects.