What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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My hoe is running again...

Got the gauges and cooler line filter installed.
I was surprised to see that the cooler flow goes to the radiator first, and then to the external cooler.
I thought it was supposed to be the other way around? :think:

Took the hoe for a little drive around the block after letting the engine fully warm up.

the cooler line pressure was right around 40-50psi idle.
And went up to 60psi when driving.
I think spec is to be under 130psi...
This is of course w/o any transmission coolers.

External cooler cools more than the in-rad cooler. If it went into the external cooler first, then to the rad cooler, the trans fluid would get heated back up. Also, the rad cooler cools it first so the external cooler has less heat to remove, making it work even better.
 

Mickey_7106

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Im in the market for control arms. Never seen these adjustable ball joints. When would someone need these? Im at stock height on 22s with the autoride.
 

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alpha_omega

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Im in the market for control arms. Never seen these adjustable ball joints. When would someone need these? Im at stock height on 22s with the autoride.
Usually for a front caster and camber adjustment. It makes for an easier alignment. Hopefully your caster/camber isn’t so far out of wack that you would need a set of adjustable ball joints.
 

alpha_omega

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I think those had an all-wheel-drive system used a viscous coupler in the transfer case.
I had a ' 95 Grand Cherokee with the 5.2l (?) V8. Those were great in the snow and off road, but didn't have a full frame. It got rear ended, hit mostly on the receiver hitch, causing the rear subframe to bend downward and the rear doors would have a huge gap at the roof when closed. It was totalled by the insurance company. I bought my 2001 Yukon after that.
My dad had a ‘95 as well. Nice truck…terrible gas mileage!
 

cmatt

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Had an intake manifold leak to tackle today. Sounded like a choo choo train on a cold start when the engine idled down. Lot of caked on dirt and remnants of disintegrated wire loom under the manifold. Three of the ten vlom bolts were finger tight SMH.
Did an injection service yesterday in anticipation. At 150k miles, the upper part of the cylinder head ports still had some gunk on the walls, but you could see where the injector spray was hitting them. The valves were pretty clean as expected.
615F7A77-6878-4712-934D-09BAC19AB157.jpeg
 

89Suburban

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Had an intake manifold leak to tackle today. Sounded like a choo choo train on a cold start when the engine idled down. Lot of caked on dirt and remnants of disintegrated wire loom under the manifold. Three of the ten vlom bolts were finger tight SMH.
Did an injection service yesterday in anticipation. At 150k miles, the upper part of the cylinder head ports still had some gunk on the walls, but you could see where the injector spray was hitting them. The valves were pretty clean as expected.
View attachment 360137
Nice! Check the rear coolant crossover gaskets too. Probably wouldn’t hurt to invest in a new VLOM while you have it apart but that’s up to you. And the oil pressure switch and screen too. Did you have any of the disintegrated foam under there?
 

Mickey_7106

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Usually for a front caster and camber adjustment. It makes for an easier alignment. Hopefully your caster/camber isn’t so far out of wack that you would need a set of adjustable ball joints.
I never had this truck aligned so i don't know if that's a common problem. Thinking of dropping the front 1 inch and Leveling the rear in the future. I'm assuming that's when I'll want these control arms
 

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