What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sparksalot]

During the recent “Trip to the Desert” (C), you might recall my mention of the missing center cap spacers. After a few days, the look kinda grew on me, but the hub was definitely a gap. I thought about getting some of the black caps from the K2xx PPVs, but they’re still $60 each. Plus I’m not totally convinced I’ll like the look.

Enter Plastidip. I thoroughly scrubbed the caps in warm soapy water, then wiped them down with alcohol.

I’ll do another coat or two, then see what they look like mounted.

View attachment 360792View attachment 360793View attachment 360794View attachment 360795View attachment 360796

 

[iamdub]

...I can use the dorman union fittings to make the connection just need to figure out the transition to the connectors for the steel lines. They all look different online compared to what is on mine retaining clip wise.


I stumbled across this list of parts on O'reilly's website that looks promising!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel-delivery/connectors---fuel--cooling---trans-/nylon-fuel-line-repair-kits/02ed18ab114d/v/a/18955/automotive-suv-2007-chevrolet-tahoe

Those could just be stock photos. Also, those are Dorman, not OEM, so there's bound to be some negligible differences. Regardless, they're the same concept. A barbed tube on one end to stab into the nylon hose and a quick connect fitting on the other end. One is 3/8" and the other is 5/16". I'd prefer to minimize splices and avoid compression style fittings in a fuel system, which is why I'd just get new lines if that were an option. But the barbed stuff is really reliable. It's just really hard to press it in. If it weren't, I'd be concerned it'd leak.

If you're doubting a fitting is correct, test it out on a new fuel pump- yours (if you haven't installed it yet) or one at the parts store. At the bare minimum, you need one of each size and to press them into the remaining cut ends of the hoses. You just need to confirm that you can get enough slack to reach the fittings on the fuel pump bulkhead.

If they won't reach, you could get a couple pieces of 3/8" and 5/16" nylon tubing and splice it onto the existing cut hoses to lengthen them. I'd really try to get slack outta the lines first, even if it meant unsnapping them from some hold-downs, before adding additional splice points. I don't know where you'd get small pieces of that tubing, though. I had to buy a 10' roll of each size. Also, I'd use a double-barbed fitting before I used a compression union. Stainless because of ethanol.

Here's a video showing how all the types of fittings we're discussing are pressed in:

Keep in mind that whatever you do, you'll be doing it on the ground, on your back and in cramped areas unless you remove the remainders of the lines you cut to repair them outside of the vehicle. Considering this, it might be worth it to make it plug-and-play with new lines. They're not very long at all. Just know that to disconnect them, you have to first push really hard inward on the connector then squeeze the locking tangs (or slide the lock tab if it's an OEM style) before pulling it back off the nipple.

 

[gooffeyguy]

During the recent “Trip to the Desert” (C), you might recall my mention of the missing center cap spacers. After a few days, the look kinda grew on me, but the hub was definitely a gap. I thought about getting some of the black caps from the K2xx PPVs, but they’re still $60 each. Plus I’m not totally convinced I’ll like the look.

Enter Plastidip. I thoroughly scrubbed the caps in warm soapy water, then wiped them down with alcohol.

I’ll do another coat or two, then see what they look like mounted.

View attachment 360792View attachment 360793View attachment 360794View attachment 360795View attachment 360796

Hell, I'd keep them off, remove the 3 mounting bolts, and just install a bearing cap into the hub

 

[Rocket Man]

Those could just be stock photos. Also, those are Dorman, not OEM, so there's bound to be some negligible differences. Regardless, they're the same concept. A barbed tube on one end to stab into the nylon hose and a quick connect fitting on the other end. One is 3/8" and the other is 5/16". I'd prefer to minimize splices and avoid compression style fittings in a fuel system, which is why I'd just get new lines if that were an option. But the barbed stuff is really reliable. It's just really hard to press it in. If it weren't, I'd be concerned it'd leak.

If you're doubting a fitting is correct, test it out on a new fuel pump- yours (if you haven't installed it yet) or one at the parts store. At the bare minimum, you need one of each size and to press them into the remaining cut ends of the hoses. You just need to confirm that you can get enough slack to reach the fittings on the fuel pump bulkhead.

If they won't reach, you could get a couple pieces of 3/8" and 5/16" nylon tubing and splice it onto the existing cut hoses to lengthen them. I'd really try to get slack outta the lines first, even if it meant unsnapping them from some hold-downs, before adding additional splice points. I don't know where you'd get small pieces of that tubing, though. I had to buy a 10' roll of each size. Also, I'd use a brass double-barbed fitting before I used a compression union.

Here's a video showing how all the types of fittings we're discussing are pressed in:

Keep in mind that whatever you do, you'll be doing it on the ground, on your back and in cramped areas unless you remove the remainders of the lines you cut to repair them outside of the vehicle. Considering this, it might be worth it to make it plug-and-play with new lines. They're not very long at all. Just know that to disconnect them, you have to first push really hard inward on the connector then squeeze the locking tangs (or slide the lock tab if it's an OEM style) before pulling it back off the nipple.

I made black braided SS lines for my Silverado with -AN fittings on the tank ends that I just screwed into quick connects. The factory hard plastic lines convert to metal lines along the frame rail about halfway forward. I don’t remember how they connect at that point, I believe it’s just a barbed end on the metal line with a clamp.

 

[89Suburban]

Those could just be stock photos. Also, those are Dorman, not OEM, so there's bound to be some negligible differences. Regardless, they're the same concept. A barbed tube on one end to stab into the nylon hose and a quick connect fitting on the other end. One is 3/8" and the other is 5/16". I'd prefer to minimize splices and avoid compression style fittings in a fuel system, which is why I'd just get new lines if that were an option. But the barbed stuff is really reliable. It's just really hard to press it in. If it weren't, I'd be concerned it'd leak.

If you're doubting a fitting is correct, test it out on a new fuel pump- yours (if you haven't installed it yet) or one at the parts store. At the bare minimum, you need one of each size and to press them into the remaining cut ends of the hoses. You just need to confirm that you can get enough slack to reach the fittings on the fuel pump bulkhead.

If they won't reach, you could get a couple pieces of 3/8" and 5/16" nylon tubing and splice it onto the existing cut hoses to lengthen them. I'd really try to get slack outta the lines first, even if it meant unsnapping them from some hold-downs, before adding additional splice points. I don't know where you'd get small pieces of that tubing, though. I had to buy a 10' roll of each size. Also, I'd use a brass double-barbed fitting before I used a compression union.

Here's a video showing how all the types of fittings we're discussing are pressed in:

Keep in mind that whatever you do, you'll be doing it on the ground, on your back and in cramped areas unless you remove the remainders of the lines you cut to repair them outside of the vehicle. Considering this, it might be worth it to make it plug-and-play with new lines. They're not very long at all. Just know that to disconnect them, you have to first push really hard inward on the connector then squeeze the locking tangs (or slide the lock tab if it's an OEM style) before pulling it back off the nipple.

I'm not doing it on my back on the ground, I'll keep it at that.

On the compression unions you mean the brass ones right? Not the plastic push fit ones with the o-rings?

Look at this guy's trick with a flare tool and a caulk gun:

 

[89Suburban]

I made black braided SS lines for my Silverado with -AN fittings on the tank ends that I just screwed into quick connects. The factory hard plastic lines convert to metal lines along the frame rail about halfway forward. I don’t remember how they connect at that point, I believe it’s just a barbed end on the metal line with a clamp.

You have a link for those quick connect ends? Maybe I can use those somehow.


Mine is a flex fuel so I have a blue 3/8 connector and a green 5/16 connector. There is no third port like some of the other pumps have.

 

[Fless]

The 3/8 line goes directly into the pump and the 5/16 just connects to a black hose inside the tank and goes down into the netherrealm somewhere in the tank. You can't pull it out so have to disconnect it from the bottom of the pump mounting plate as you rotate the pump/float assembly out. I am assuming that is a return line?? I think the parts Fless posted are the ticket. Doing some parts research now. I can use the dorman union fittings to make the connection just need to figure out the transition to the connectors for the steel lines. They all look different online compared to what is on mine retaining clip wise.


I stumbled across this list of parts on O'reilly's website that looks promising!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel-delivery/connectors---fuel--cooling---trans-/nylon-fuel-line-repair-kits/02ed18ab114d/v/a/18955/automotive-suv-2007-chevrolet-tahoe

That one Dorman connector (5/16"?) shows a length of 18 inches, so I'll bet it has a good long nylon pigtail on it for a single splice inline. That would be ideal.

 

[iamdub]

I'm not doing it on my back on the ground, I'll keep it at that.

On the compression unions you mean the brass ones right? Not the plastic push fit ones with the o-rings?

The brass ones are for hard lines. Them double female push-to-connect unions are a form of compression style. They're probably fine, just not my preference.

Look at this guy's trick with a flare tool and a caulk gun:


View attachment 360814

I actually tried that when I was doing mine, and possibly referenced that same image! It wasn't working out so well and I found I could do it by hand- with gloves, cuz it was hot. I did hold the hose with the same kind of flaring clamp, though.

 

[iamdub]

...I believe it’s just a barbed end on the metal line with a clamp.

Now that you mention this, it sounds familiar.

 

[iamdub]

You have a link for those quick connect ends? Maybe I can use those somehow.

Sooooo... All this yammering prompted me to search my stash. I found the leftover materials from that rear fuel tank project. I have X feet of both the 5/16" and 3/8" nylon tubing. I also have four each of the 5/16" and 3/8" quick connect fittings.

The tubing I know is perfectly fine. The QC fittings are unused and have always been in their original boxes. But, they have O-rings inside them. I'd venture to say that the O-rings would be perfectly fine, but I can't guarantee it. I tested one of each size on my original fuel pump bulkhead. They seemed to fit snugly and locked into place just fine.

The fittings I have are Dorman 800-080 (5/15") and 800-082 (3/8"). I'd offer to send you one of each, pressed into a length of tubing for you to splice in. But, not being able to guarantee the condition of the O-rings, I'm thinking you're better off buying something newer.