What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[89Suburban]

Yup!

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

As Steve showed, you can get new connectors. Pressing them into that nylon hose is a real PITA. There's a tool for it- It's like a caulk gun that holds the hose in the end and presses the fitting into it as you squeeze the handle. I converted my S10 to have a rear-mounted fuel tank (from a 2-door Blazer) and had to make longer nylon hoses. This was 7+ years ago, so I don't remember the details. I just recall softening the hose a little with a heat gun and pushing the fittings into place by hand. I was in better shape back then.

There's not much slack in those hoses as it is and now they're about 1.5" shorter. If you can't move or bend lines elsewhere to make up for that, you might have to replace the hose. I believe there's a connector near the frame where it transitions from nylon to aluminum.


Here's the tool I was referencing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E35W1...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


Also, these might be the hoses you'd need. Confirm first:

3/8" feed- https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-1512...targid=pla-606319519160&psc=1#customerReviews

5/16" return- https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-1512...40c6c&pd_rd_wg=aZBsC&pd_rd_i=B010GMQUEG&psc=1

This stuff right is what makes this forum so great!! You guys really go above and beyond. Thanks!!

 

[89Suburban]

Not sure if they have the size or type you would need, but NAPA has these kinds of splices and connectors.

View attachment 360761

You might need to replace the entire line from the front of the fuel TANK, though, are there quick connects there at the crossmember?

Something like this would work. Need to find these for the 5/16 lines and some nylon fuel tubing to connect them together with.

 

[Fless]

Something like this would work. Need to find these for the 5/16 lines and some nylon fuel tubing to connect them together with.

They had some tubing listed, too, but I didn't show it.

 

[89Suburban]

As Steve showed, you can get new connectors. Pressing them into that nylon hose is a real PITA. There's a tool for it- It's like a caulk gun that holds the hose in the end and presses the fitting into it as you squeeze the handle. I converted my S10 to have a rear-mounted fuel tank (from a 2-door Blazer) and had to make longer nylon hoses. This was 7+ years ago, so I don't remember the details. I just recall softening the hose a little with a heat gun and pushing the fittings into place by hand. I was in better shape back then.

There's not much slack in those hoses as it is and now they're about 1.5" shorter. If you can't move or bend lines elsewhere to make up for that, you might have to replace the hose. I believe there's a connector near the frame where it transitions from nylon to aluminum.


Here's the tool I was referencing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E35W1...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


Also, these might be the hoses you'd need. Confirm first:

3/8" feed- https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-1512...targid=pla-606319519160&psc=1#customerReviews

5/16" return- https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-1512...40c6c&pd_rd_wg=aZBsC&pd_rd_i=B010GMQUEG&psc=1

I temporarily stuck a brass barb in the 3/8 nylon end and used a piece of rubber fuel line with clamps until I can track down some repair parts. Replacing the complete lines is not an option right now.

 

[89Suburban]

They had some tubing listed, too, but I didn't show it.

Thanks I appreciate it got some homework and looking around to do, I like the shark bite type fitting you posted there.

 

[alpha_omega]

I need help. Is there any repair fix or adapters for replacing this? Without replacing the whole fuel hose assembly? These are off my rotted out fuel pump.

Bummer!
It might be easier just replacing that part of the line. Is that the hose running to/from for the vapor canister? Or does that go up to the purge valve?
Depending on which one that is, it might be a real pita trying to do in place, vs dropping the tank and/or replacing the whole thing. I can say the tank isn’t “fun” to drop on these beasts, not by any means. There are some good videos out there, in the event you give it a go.

Reminds me of when the brakes when out on my ‘02. I pi$$ed around for a couple days trying to cut, flare and splice in new line, only for it to blow out further down the line. If I knew then what I know now or even what I learned after the fact, I would have taken it somewhere and had the entire set of lines replaced.

 

[Fless]

Bummer!
It might be easier just replacing that part of the line. Is that the hose running to/from for the vapor canister? Or does that go up to the purge valve?
Depending on which one that is, it might be a real pita trying to do in place, vs dropping the tank and/or replacing the whole thing. I can say the tank isn’t “fun” to drop on these beasts, not by any means. There are some good videos out there, in the event you give it a go.

Reminds me of when the brakes when out on my ‘02. I pi$$ed around for a couple days trying to cut, flare and splice in new line, only for it to blow out further down the line. If I knew then what I know now or even what I learned after the fact, I would have taken it somewhere and had the entire set of lines replaced.

Sorry to say that they're fuel pump lines, not evap.

 

[Sparksalot]

During the recent “Trip to the Desert” (C), you might recall my mention of the missing center cap spacers. After a few days, the look kinda grew on me, but the hub was definitely a gap. I thought about getting some of the black caps from the K2xx PPVs, but they’re still $60 each. Plus I’m not totally convinced I’ll like the look.

Enter Plastidip. I thoroughly scrubbed the caps in warm soapy water, then wiped them down with alcohol.

I’ll do another coat or two, then see what they look like mounted.

 

[89Suburban]

Bummer!
It might be easier just replacing that part of the line. Is that the hose running to/from for the vapor canister? Or does that go up to the purge valve?
Depending on which one that is, it might be a real pita trying to do in place, vs dropping the tank and/or replacing the whole thing. I can say the tank isn’t “fun” to drop on these beasts, not by any means. There are some good videos out there, in the event you give it a go.

Reminds me of when the brakes when out on my ‘02. I pi$$ed around for a couple days trying to cut, flare and splice in new line, only for it to blow out further down the line. If I knew then what I know now or even what I learned after the fact, I would have taken it somewhere and had the entire set of lines replaced.

Sorry to say that they're fuel pump lines, not evap.

The 3/8 line goes directly into the pump and the 5/16 just connects to a black hose inside the tank and goes down into the netherrealm somewhere in the tank. You can't pull it out so have to disconnect it from the bottom of the pump mounting plate as you rotate the pump/float assembly out. I am assuming that is a return line?? I think the parts Fless posted are the ticket. Doing some parts research now. I can use the dorman union fittings to make the connection just need to figure out the transition to the connectors for the steel lines. They all look different online compared to what is on mine retaining clip wise.


I stumbled across this list of parts on O'reilly's website that looks promising!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel-delivery/connectors---fuel--cooling---trans-/nylon-fuel-line-repair-kits/02ed18ab114d/v/a/18955/automotive-suv-2007-chevrolet-tahoe