What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[alpha_omega]

Sounds like a rock-solid bargaining position to me!

When Cadillac announced the CT5V Blackwing was available to order in 2021 (the one with the V8), I went to my wife with a copy of Car and Driver and said "I WANT THIS CAR!!!" She said, "I think you should go buy it." Bless her.

But in my case, all I had to do was run the numbers of what it would really cost us vs. how much I would really gain from enjoying it. To do that required me to reflect on every other time I made an impulse buy for a car I was drooling over (new BMW, new Land Rovers, etc) versus how much I'd actually enjoyed them, and that was enough. I put my checkbook away.

Ha! Gotta love your relationship with the wife during times like these. I’m not familiar with the Blackwing time to do some research. Plus that means you owe us a photo of the one you were daydreaming and drooling over.

Very true! That’s and not being 100% sold on the new look is why I haven’t bought one yet. Instead I’ll just keep investing in and driving Omega (a few times a year) until that time comes.

 

[alpha_omega]

Yup, they sure are. Looks to me like it's time for a new one. Go OEM unless you tow a heavy trailer.

For towing heavy, do you then suggest either the Coldcase or Mishimotos that several of us have discussed extensively in the other thread?

 

[Geotrash]

Ha! Gotta love your relationship with the wife during times like these. I’m not familiar with the Blackwing time to do some research. Plus that means you owe us a photo of the one you were daydreaming and drooling over.

Very true! That’s and not being 100% sold on the new look is why I haven’t bought one yet. Instead I’ll just keep investing in and driving Omega (a few times a year) until that time comes.

Here it is right from the configurator

 

[Geotrash]

For towing heavy, do you then suggest either the Coldcase or Mishimotos that several of us have discussed extensively in the other thread?

I have a Cold Case in my 2012. It's a 2-row with oil and transmission fluid coolers in the end tanks. The 6.2 generates more heat than the 5.3, yet uses the same cooling setup from the factory. I've found that it's not adequate for towing near the limits in hot weather in the mountains (7,000 lb camper, 90ºF+ outside temps). I was seeing coolant temps of 240º+ in hot weather over the hills with the factory radiator (via OBD2 port), and with the Cold Case I see 210-220ºF in the same conditions.

 

[Sparksalot]

Need some radiator advice. At 152k, it looks to be the original rad. I’ve been suspicious of a small leak. Did a pressure test at 15psi (overflow tank cap says 20psi) and it appears to be leaking at the driver side. Are these prone to leak here? I drove it approx 10 miles round trip and didn’t experience a large coolant loss. Just trying to figure out if I’m shopping for a radiator@swathdiver

I just put a Coldcase in thecopcar. I had it in 2 days from Summit, and it bolted right in. My original burst in the middle of Big Bend after only 203K of break in service. Same tank btw.

 

[cmatt]

For towing heavy, do you then suggest either the Coldcase or Mishimotos that several of us have discussed extensively in the other thread?

What’s this magical radiator thread you speak of?

 

[89Suburban]

Just serviced my baby. Oil and filter change. Remember my oil drain plug got stripped out at the service shop and it had heli coil stuck on it? I confirmed there are no heli coil pieces stuck in the hole. It's completely stripped out smooth and measures .460 on the dial caliper. Now I have to research a repair for this. Anybody been down thus path? I am hoping not to use helicoil again, seeing as it already failed. Drill tap the hole for a bigger bolt? Or some kind of threaded insert?

I also changed the air filter with a Delco replacement. Of course I forgot to plug the MAF sensor wire back in. So it threw codes P0102 & P0113. This also caused the service stabilitrac and service traction control warnings. Of course I panicked with all the lights and bells going off. Started to loose my cool, had to pull the Fonz out and chill. Realized "Hey jaggazz, you forgot a plug." Plugged it in and cleared the codes and all seems good. So future reference if anybody else goes through this.

 

[iamdub]

Just serviced my baby. Oil and filter change. Remember my oil drain plug got stripped out at the service shop and it had heli coil stuck on it? I confirmed there are no heli coil pieces stuck in the hole. It's completely stripped out smooth and measures .460 on the dial caliper. Now I have to research a repair for this. Anybody been down thus path? I am hoping not to use helicoil again, seeing as it already failed. Drill tap the hole for a bigger bolt? Or some kind of threaded insert?

I also changed the air filter with a Delco replacement. Of course I forgot to plug the MAF sensor wire back in. So it threw codes P0102 & P0113. This also caused the service stabilitrac and service traction control warnings. Of course I panicked with all the lights and bells going off. Started to loose my cool, had to pull the Fonz out and chill. Realized "Hey jaggazz, you forgot a plug." Plugged it in and cleared the codes and all seems good. So future reference if anybody else goes through this.

Either the HeliCoil wasn't done properly or it was buggered up beyond that kind of repair. Mine has been HeliCoiled since before I bought it. Works fine.

Your best course of action depends on how bad it is. Personally, I like steel threads over aluminum. You could try repairing the thread (new HeliCoil). If that doesn't work, drill and tap it the next size up and use a larger plug and just be careful when tightening it.

 

[89Suburban]

Either the HeliCoil wasn't done properly or it was buggered up beyond that kind of repair. Mine has been HeliCoiled since before I bought it. Works fine.

Your best course of action depends on how bad it is. Personally, I like steel threads over aluminum. You could try repairing the thread (new HeliCoil). If that doesn't work, drill and tap it the next size up and use a larger plug and just be careful when tightening it.

Appreciate your response. Next question is, there is no room for a drill to fit in there between the pan and the chassis. Thoughts?

 

[iamdub]

Appreciate your response. Next question is, there is no room for a drill to fit in there between the pan and the chassis. Thoughts?

Must be a 4WD thing. Not even a right angle drill would fit? Hazard Fraught has one for about $20. It looks like a weak POS, but you're only drilling aluminum, and just enlarging a hole at that. You might even cut the bit down some.






Perhaps the next size up is an SAE size and yours is already stripped out enough that it wouldn't need drilling and you can just tap it.