wjburken
Supporting Member
Can’t you drop the cross member?Appreciate your response. Next question is, there is no room for a drill to fit in there between the pan and the chassis. Thoughts?
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Can’t you drop the cross member?Appreciate your response. Next question is, there is no room for a drill to fit in there between the pan and the chassis. Thoughts?
the plastic ends get hairline cracksNeed some radiator advice. At 152k, it looks to be the original rad. I’ve been suspicious of a small leak. Did a pressure test at 15psi (overflow tank cap says 20psi) and it appears to be leaking at the driver side. Are these prone to leak here? I drove it approx 10 miles round trip and didn’t experience a large coolant loss. Just trying to figure out if I’m shopping for a radiator@swathdiver
Need some radiator advice. At 152k, it looks to be the original rad. I’ve been suspicious of a small leak. Did a pressure test at 15psi (overflow tank cap says 20psi) and it appears to be leaking at the driver side. Are these prone to leak here? I drove it approx 10 miles round trip and didn’t experience a large coolant loss. Just trying to figure out if I’m shopping for a radiator@swathdiver
Just serviced my baby. Oil and filter change. Remember my oil drain plug got stripped out at the service shop and it had heli coil stuck on it? I confirmed there are no heli coil pieces stuck in the hole. It's completely stripped out smooth and measures .460 on the dial caliper. Now I have to research a repair for this. Anybody been down thus path? I am hoping not to use helicoil again, seeing as it already failed. Drill tap the hole for a bigger bolt? Or some kind of threaded insert?
I also changed the air filter with a Delco replacement. Of course I forgot to plug the MAF sensor wire back in. So it threw codes P0102 & P0113. This also caused the service stabilitrac and service traction control warnings. Of course I panicked with all the lights and bells going off. Started to loose my cool, had to pull the Fonz out and chill. Realized "Hey jaggazz, you forgot a plug." Plugged it in and cleared the codes and all seems good. So future reference if anybody else goes through this.
Need some radiator advice. At 152k, it looks to be the original rad. I’ve been suspicious of a small leak. Did a pressure test at 15psi (overflow tank cap says 20psi) and it appears to be leaking at the driver side. Are these prone to leak here? I drove it approx 10 miles round trip and didn’t experience a large coolant loss. Just trying to figure out if I’m shopping for a radiator@swathdiver
hot&cold constantly does it, after 5 years there questionable in my bookfudge.
I went out and checked mine after it had run for a bit, and I'm seeing some seeping in the same area. Why does this have to happen in Feb? I prefer changing radiators in June.
Did we ever come to a conclusion on the fan upgrade? I know we all had meters out one day checking the cfm, but we also all had different variables (different Rads, coolers in different locations, some had missing baffles) so I can’t remember if we ever came to a conclusion about the fan swap.I have a Cold Case in my 2012. It's a 2-row with oil and transmission fluid coolers in the end tanks. The 6.2 generates more heat than the 5.3, yet uses the same cooling setup from the factory. I've found that it's not adequate for towing near the limits in hot weather in the mountains (7,000 lb camper, 90ºF+ outside temps). I was seeing coolant temps of 240º+ in hot weather over the hills with the factory radiator (via OBD2 port), and with the Cold Case I see 210-220ºF in the same conditions.
It’s a thread that @Geotrash started and unbeknownst to him, several of us blew it up discussing it along with a multitude of other random topics, amidst poking fun at and bouncing ideas off one another (not unlike this thread). Tread carefully though, as you may get lost among the madness.What’s this magical radiator thread you speak of?
I never did a comparison test of my 700w versus a 500w but now that I think of it the wife's 05 is most likely a 500w I will try to get them both up at full speed and compare going to be a busy day so might end up being a couple days, plus it's cold out so going to have to be in the afternoon sometimeDid we ever come to a conclusion on the fan upgrade? I know we all had meters out one day checking the cfm, but we also all had different variables (different Rads, coolers in different locations, some had missing baffles) so I can’t remember if we ever came to a conclusion about the fan swap.
It’s a thread that @Geotrash started and unbeknownst to him, several of us blew it up discussing it along with a multitude of other random topics, amidst poking fun at and bouncing ideas off one another (not unlike this thread). Tread carefully though, as you may get lost among the madness.
I know @Monz11 just put a new one in, but I think she went with the Mishimoto vs the Coldcase that others have recently mentioned. Plus still doing her rebuild she may not have had time to “scientifically” compile data like @Geotrash @Sparksalot @Tonyrodz and @Doubeleive
Keeping coolant and transmission temps under control when towing in the summer heat
Hi All, the 2012 XL Denali is a towing beast, but after the cam upgrade, new HD torque converter, and adding the Tru-Cool 40K in front of the radiator, the engine itself is running warm now that we're getting into spring. Hauled our 6500 lb camper down to Virginia Beach this weekend in 83º...www.tahoeyukonforum.com
*also someone recently posted some info/photos about not having to do as much trimming of the radiator cover or fan shroud when installing their aftermarket radiator, but I can’t recall who it was.