gooffeyguy
Tom
He stated it has no key fob, it's manual locks
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Tonyv__
Full Access Member
The most obvious solution?! No lol. I just don’t have the time to take it anywhere. That’s why I spend so much time tinkering on my own. And no the van is manual windows/locks. So no fob to test
It doesn’t matter if it was tuned with the Autocal. Once the tune is installed in an ECM or TCM, any tuning software can pull a copy of that tune which is then saved as, say, an HPT file if that’s what is being used , then modified by HPT and then flashed. I did this with my BBP tune on my 02. I pulled a copy, modified my trans tune to not report codes related to a 2-3 solenoid issue I was having because my trans builder said their builds don’t even use that solenoid. Then I flashed the modified tune and voila no more problem. I think that guy just wants money imo. He should know that.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I don't think that's always the case. Sometimes, hpt can't read or compute a tune that was done with efi live. I say this based off years ago information so things could've changed. The way the programs work or values they see, aren't always the same. I could definitely be wrong, but it was a problem back when I first got hpt
have you tried disconnecting the battery ground for about 10 minutes? then try again
That’s not what I’ve learned. As soon as the tune is flashed into the ECM/ TCM it’s in its native format or else the vehicle can’t read it. Then you just download the files from your vehicle into your tuning software at which time it’s converted into a HPT file or whatever you’re using. As long as you don’t try to download the file from one tuning suite to another directly, you’re fine. It’s the same as downloading your stock tune and then modifying it. I did it- my BBP tune (EFI Live) is now modified by my HPT suite.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Good to know
So the A/C compressor from Rock Auto has an extra connector on the rear cap that I presume is for a high pressure cutoff switch. But my original doesn’t have that extra connector and instead has the high pressure cutoff on the line a few inches from the compressor itself. Apart from that, the compressor is a perfect fit.
I’m guessing that I can still use this compressor and simply not connect anything to the rear connector and instead plug the compressor switch in like normal (has the same connector there as the original), and plug the 2nd connect into the connector on the line as it was with the original compressor. Anyone see any problem with this plan?
I’m guessing that I can still use this compressor and simply not connect anything to the rear connector and instead plug the compressor switch in like normal (has the same connector there as the original), and plug the 2nd connect into the connector on the line as it was with the original compressor. Anyone see any problem with this plan?
I don't know I always thought they had to be the same and this is the problem with buying compressors
replaced the passenger side mirror, mirror works fine but in the process the triangular trim piece broke a clip off and almost all the door panel clips broke off
so if you plan on pulling door panels off of a 10+ year old vehicle invest in some of these, gm wants about $8 each
so if you plan on pulling door panels off of a 10+ year old vehicle invest in some of these, gm wants about $8 each
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