What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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alpha_omega

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you're probably right.

didn't think of that. what a bad techs these days. ugh.
This can also happen if they don’t remove all of the nylon from the grooves. Those shaft ears are tweaked for sure. There’s no damn way it will be right again.

I wish buddy
bad news is a new oem one is no longer available
good news is a dorman one can be overnighted if necessary


These guys have them in stock and considering your style of driving, then you know you’re getting something that will last longer than the Dorman. They can overnight as well.
 

alpha_omega

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Doubeleive

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This can also happen if they don’t remove all of the nylon from the grooves. Those shaft ears are tweaked for sure. There’s no damn way it will be right again.




These guys have them in stock and considering your style of driving, then you know you’re getting something that will last longer than the Dorman. They can overnight as well.
that place in Texas doesn't show one for the yukon, well it does but only a 53" (up to 2009) then it skips to 2015, mine is 61.5"
the local place said they can build me one for about $450 (race ready) steel, aluminum or carbon fiber
 

alpha_omega

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Those are really nice. How many miles can you go between fuel stops?
If I pushed it to the limit and had perfect driving conditions theoretically I could get close to 800. When you add reality to the mix, needing to stop for breaks to empty the bladder, walk the dogs, stretch out, wake up - along with $hitty stop and go traffic, heavy wind…etc it’s more like 650-700. That way we are stopping at a good truck stop making fill ups quicker, we can add DEF fluid to the tank if need be and maneuver the rig to get back on the road much easier than some random gas station.
 

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I took it back to the dealer early this morning and had them lube the slip yoke after going in&out a few times it needed to be done again, no charge the main manager is back from vacation, I guess they are dealing with whoever the tech was that did the u joints if I had not felt a vibration and never looked at it, it could have been catastrophic down the road.
I will probably get another drive line at some point it's not 100% like it was but it will work for now
 

alpha_omega

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that place in Texas doesn't show one for the yukon, well it does but only a 53" (up to 2009) then it skips to 2015, mine is 61.5"
the local place said they can build me one for about $450 (race ready) steel, aluminum or carbon fiber
Yours is a one piece unit? What’s the OEM p/n?
 

m1dn

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So last weekend i was changing oil with my wife's 18y brother who has never touched a wrench before.
Was briefly showing what's where under the car and while doing so noticed one of the bolts on sway bar bushing was busted and the bushing was held on a single bolt.
( No wonder the handling felt wierd and bumps sent my wheel kind flying around, eh? )

When i took the bushing out, found out the area between bolt holes on where that bushing attaches has rotted out - https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sway-bar-attachment-rotting-out.142499/
And removing the rusted bolt turned out to be quite an adventure!

Took me almost all day to remove that bolt, tried welding until it snapped, then went to drilling and tapping aaaand repeat.
The bolt was reeeeeally rusted in, even when 1nanometer of the bold was left, it was still stuck inside the threads :\

Will be ordering a proper replacement piece when it snaps off thanks to member linking a right part in the thread above.
Meanwhile cleaned the area and welded a piece of sheet metal and painted with rust-stop paint.
And installed new bushings.

Turns out the car hundles much much better with in-tact sway bar bushing and doesn't throw the wheel around in potholes!
Attaching some pics of before/after

Edit:
New tools - HF Welder, tap set, carbo drill bits
Price - Priceless, would do it again!
 

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j91z28d1

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anyone know where to get gm documents? a tsb references a procedure outlined in GM document number(long number) but I can't find it anywhere in the software I have access to, or Google.

if it's in a gm service manual, this is for someone else, but guess I'm going to wanna buy one. kinda annoying.
 

89Suburban

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So last weekend i was changing oil with my wife's 18y brother who has never touched a wrench before.
Was briefly showing what's where under the car and while doing so noticed one of the bolts on sway bar bushing was busted and the bushing was held on a single bolt.
( No wonder the handling felt wierd and bumps sent my wheel kind flying around, eh? )

When i took the bushing out, found out the area between bolt holes on where that bushing attaches has rotted out - https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sway-bar-attachment-rotting-out.142499/
And removing the rusted bolt turned out to be quite an adventure!

Took me almost all day to remove that bolt, tried welding until it snapped, then went to drilling and tapping aaaand repeat.
The bolt was reeeeeally rusted in, even when 1nanometer of the bold was left, it was still stuck inside the threads :\

Will be ordering a proper replacement piece when it snaps off thanks to member linking a right part in the thread above.
Meanwhile cleaned the area and welded a piece of sheet metal and painted with rust-stop paint.
And installed new bushings.

Turns out the car hundles much much better with in-tact sway bar bushing and doesn't throw the wheel around in potholes!
Attaching some pics of before/after

Edit:
New tools - HF Welder, tap set, carbo drill bits
Price - Priceless, would do it again!
I just went through that sht on mine a few months ago. I tried to drill out the broken bolt and it went off center. So I drilled the hole big enough to slide a new bolt through and lock nut on the top. PITA.
 

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