What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Just Fishing

Can't fix stupid
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My aluminum radiators drain port was fantastic.
Still no leaks *knock on wood*.

But after that single heater core line blew earlier this month, i have been running nearly pure distilled water.

I finally thought about it and decided i better add dex sooner than later and drained the radiator.

Figuring i have abkut 3.5 gallons total (+/-), i figure i need a little over 1.5 gallons of dex.

Drained it out, and i had plenty of capacity drained to get the proper mix.
Error on the side of caution, and i went for a little bit past 50/50.

Having that drain on the extra capacity radiator is much easier than pulling the lower radiator hose.

Now I'm looking at making mostly unnecessary guard for the hood latch.

Last year i proved i could pop the hood externally using a long screw driver, and with the crazy neighbor issue that recently got worse since i decided to act on a hunch and called one of them out, i decided it's time to lock that mofo down.

I also caught the same creep twice now hanging around the front of the tahoe and the jeep when i went into the store for a quick second... lol
(Different stores!)
*tin foil hat on*

Wife has also ordered me to put one of the security camera's inside of the garage and for me to wear a gun when I'm working in there with the garage door open... lol

Anyways, i have a mesh installed into the grill that blocks view plus anything thick enough to pop that latch from entering without damaging the mesh.
(The mesh was installed originally to keep bugs and trash from clogging things up)

Now I'm looking at other gaps, and i noticed a pretty good one between the hood and the grill.

So messing around with some aluminum stock i have on hand i created something that protects the latch, blocks the gap, and it shouldn't block any normal function of that hood latch.

I'll snap a picture later, currently the aluminum etching primer is drying, and then I'll paint it a nice flat black.
 
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They are aftermarket units. They plug into the factory bulb sockets and are internally wired from there. The DRL and low beam circuits must be joined because the low beams are single-filament bulbs. This weekend I'll pull everything apart and diagnose it. I'm hoping there's a short in one of the housings that's causing the issue. That'll be easier to fix. Maybe this'll be an opportunity to mod them. I've never liked that the LED bars only come on with the low beams and not the DRLs.
The LED bars come on with the parking lights
 

Charlie207

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FP7NB04.jpg

New rear swaybar end-links. Almost certainly didn't need them, but at least the new ones (AC Delco) look good.

Actual zero drama installing them just now! I assumed one of the four nuts would be rounded and seized into a single piece with the threaded portion, but they zipped right off.

The fronts were lost in shipping (crackhead UPS local sort), so now I have to wait until Scamazon updates the order before I can reorder.
 

j91z28d1

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Found a cheap dc clamp meter wanted to see what the mechman is putting out at idle.
This is with most stuff on, hangs around 120
View attachment 405269
Then with everything on plus jl audio back massager
View attachment 405270

that's interesting. I was just playing with the 220amp alt, not on the truck but the car.. with everything I could think of on max with the windows down I got 101amps out of it at idle. it didn't break a sweat at that, even with a 10% under drive crank pulley and bigger than oem alt pulley. wonder if the rear ac is the extra amps of the truck's.


either way super happy for 130$. the mechman ones are super popular on the corvette boards too. since they are more plug and play on those specific cars with odd ball alternators but bit pricey for my wallet.

PXL_20230730_204524132.jpg
 

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