What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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CMoore711
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Been slowly doing some upgrades to the '13 ESV since that has now become my daily.
Did the diode mod in the fuse box so my DRL's stay on with my low beams and illuminate the entire headlight housing.
I've got 5000K LEDs in the DRL and parking light up top, and my OSRAM CBB HID bulbs are closer to 6K.
In the first pic you can see the difference in the light color, but in the last 2 they look closer to matching.
Contemplating swapping the parking and DRL LEDs out for 6K due to my OCD.
(I know my fogs are still stock halogens, that's changing soon...)
Did the diode mod in the fuse box so my DRL's stay on with my low beams and illuminate the entire headlight housing.
I've got 5000K LEDs in the DRL and parking light up top, and my OSRAM CBB HID bulbs are closer to 6K.
In the first pic you can see the difference in the light color, but in the last 2 they look closer to matching.
Contemplating swapping the parking and DRL LEDs out for 6K due to my OCD.
(I know my fogs are still stock halogens, that's changing soon...)
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
What's the mileage on it?
avalonandl
Full Access Member
Take it to a detailer and that interior will llok better
hmm, service manager called me back from the dealer, they really can't pinpoint the problem yet but they think it could either be the spider gears in the diff OR possibly calipers not releasing properly, they also said it is tight and you can't easily turn the wheels in neutral, so there inspecting the brakes a bit more I told them if it is the brakes it would probably be the rear because that is where the sensation seems to be coming from. so just waiting while they check the brakes and try and narrow it down.
part of the problem they run into is it awd so they can't just drop a shaft and drive it to see
part of the problem they run into is it awd so they can't just drop a shaft and drive it to see
that's the rear drop feeling right?
I guess a brake dragging could bind things up under braking and release under power..
they can drive it around for a bit and hit the wheels with a temp gun and see which one is hot to find it?
I have seen where the rod length in the master cylinder is just a touch to long after a master replacement and the brake drag a bit, but only after driving it a bit and then once back to the shop and sits a while it releases till driven again but it seems like something that would really only happen on my work junk since parts quality is very random. gotta adjust the rod to match ever new master since you never know what you're going to get. I only bring it up because a dragging rotor should be very easy to find on a lift by just turning the wheel by hand. you'll feel and hear the pad rubbing, if they haven't ruled that out in 2 mins, maybe it's intermittent?
I guess a brake dragging could bind things up under braking and release under power..
they can drive it around for a bit and hit the wheels with a temp gun and see which one is hot to find it?
I have seen where the rod length in the master cylinder is just a touch to long after a master replacement and the brake drag a bit, but only after driving it a bit and then once back to the shop and sits a while it releases till driven again but it seems like something that would really only happen on my work junk since parts quality is very random. gotta adjust the rod to match ever new master since you never know what you're going to get. I only bring it up because a dragging rotor should be very easy to find on a lift by just turning the wheel by hand. you'll feel and hear the pad rubbing, if they haven't ruled that out in 2 mins, maybe it's intermittent?
How much slop are we talking? A big takeup in slack when engaging gears, loud clunk?
I have a fair bit of slack regarding the spiders, but nothing crazy, not enough to make any significant changes in clunking when engaging a gear.
You may have some chain stretch in the transfer case.
Lift a front wheel and rotate the front driveshaft until the rear shaft moves, could be that's what you are experiencing.
How many miles?
he said it might be locking up the pads when i stop and then when it releases that is what I could be feeling, I don't think they are dragging per say because I would have smelled it and they would have found that easily.
I have installed larger Baer erradispeed rotors on the front and rear, and I could have installed the clips on the rear incorrectly a while ago though
Or it could be the spider gears winding up, but they don't want to condemn the rear end until they check the brakes
they are not charging for me diagnosing but I do have to be patient because it's being done as they have time.
I couldn't find anything when I got under it other than the transfer case felt like it might have some play, no leaks anywhere
I changed the front diff fluid a little over a year ago and it still looked like new, changed the rear a few months ago and it had nothing on the magnet but a pretty small amount of silt
not hearing any clunk but you can feel it for sure and they can feel it but so far haven't narrowed it down.
could be the whole goose is loose lol, I am "VERY" ******* vehicles which is why I have to maintain them on a severe duty cycle
it wouldn't be the 1,2,3,4th G80 I have taken out of service before
it's an interesting one.. I hope they figure it out, I'm very curious. I think you're right you'd smell something if they were dragging a lot.
I have those baer rotors on the front of my c6. previous owner installed them, I've changed the rings out once from cracking on one between drills, which seemed kinda pricey but they have done well since.. they are warp free after 2 track days, I can't ask for any more than that. each day killed a set of hawk pads and last one melted my center cap out of my wheel lol. that's with brake ducts installed. (track layout is very ******* brakes) so the rotors not warping is pretty amazing. I do try to do warm up and cool down laps thou. my buddy with a newer club sport BMW had to have rotors and pads replaced after each day.
